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Old 04-12-2011, 10:40 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Lavid2002 View Post
I can swipe a 92 miata for 800 clams, maybe 700 if I talk him down.
Then the early car is the way to go.
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What else would I have to work around with the 1.6? Do I have to worry about the harness not matching up, suspension components, or things like that?
You'll run the 1.6 or 1.8 engine off the 1.8 harness, using all 1.6 electronics, like a MSpnp9093 (keep the thermoswitch though)
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I don't care about defrosters or power windows or anything like that. I plan or pulling practically everything out of this car. If I got a 1.8L I would have to hunt around for the 99 head anyways right? So why not just scout around for a 99 motor right off the bat to swap into this shell (If this goes through).
You need to find a wrecked 1.8 car. 99 heads typically bring $450 in good, working order. I don't know how the 1.8 and 99 heads compare to each other, but I have a 99 head because I thought it was a good idea to do it right, the first time. You need to find a wrecked 99+ car to swap over. That way you get the engine, torsen rear end, spares, and possibly a 6-speed or at the least a spare 5-speed.
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I have already learned a lot piecing this together, I plan to make a fun car, have a fun project, and learn during the process!
I challenge anyone to show me a car that's more fun than a turbo Miata.
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The only real concern that I can think of is that the front anti roll bar is located a little further back and if you use the stock mounts it will be fairly close to the front of the engine.
It fits and you can still get a socket on the crank bolt.
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I am still looking into power goals, but for now I plan to make about 300
I can outrun a Viper on the highway from 40-120mph in my car at ~275whp/16psi, at 240whp I can go around C6Z's on Hoosiers at TWS. 2400lb w/driver, little gears, little tires...these cars are epic fast at 250whp. At 15+psi in my car it's quite dangerous considering our little 9" wide tires, even in 4th gear.
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I haven't been in a miata with 300WHP, but who says I need to drive one to build one?
You will realize what you're asking for in a 300whp car. There is a big, huge reliability wall at about 250whp depending upon how nice you are to the car. After about 250whp/240wtq, transmission don't last long. This is one reason why I run my car at only 235-240whp (210 for NASA), I don't want to pop transmissions, trans and rear end temps are already at 280-320*f, tires don't last long, brake parts are short lived, and I get about 6-7mpg at the track (fuel is expensive). I ran the car at 275-280whp for a season and it was very expensive, outside of my budget. Right now I'm burning about 1-tank of fuel every 45 minutes at 230whp, at 275whp it's much shorter.

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Unlike (I would say most) people on this site this car is NOT going to be a daily driver, its not even needed in the least. If it sits in my back yard and takes 2 or 3 years to finish, so be it.
That's what I did, mainly because I traveled for work about 4-years. I'd fly home every other month and work on the car for 3-days. It took about 18-months to build. You have to think in terms of target whp, then build from the oil pan, up to the head, then out through the bumper. I've spent more on heat shielding and cooling than most people spend on their turbo hot parts. The #1 best thing I did was buy the best connecting hardware (ARP headstuds, mains, and inconel CHRA bolts). #2 was waiting for the ABSURDflow parts. #3 is running the built motor under it's limits to be nice to the trans. #4 was dating your mother. The worst thing I did was build the engine before the Boundary oil pump gears were available...they'll go in when I pull the engine for the rewire job.

My build thread is pretty long, but the first 20-pages or so are pretty informative on what I broke, why my mother never loved me, and what I did to fix it. The 20-pages are where I fine tuned the car to a near zero maintenence track/racecar.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:00 AM   #22
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I challenge anyone to show me a car that's more fun than a turbo Miata
You did ask for the challenge... 254 WHP @ 3,100 lbs. Full interior, power everything, sunroof, stereo, Oh - and fully caged. All NA power though. Really - you need a ride in the Noble M400 before anything though.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:19 AM   #23
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you did ask for the challenge... 254 whp @ 3,100 lbs. Full interior, power everything, sunroof, stereo, oh - and fully caged. All na power though. Really - you need a ride in the noble m400 before anything though.
racing pedigree lc
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:13 PM   #24
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I hear 300 WHP is too high for the 5 speeds, and the 6 speeds are sketchy that high as well. Faeflora said something about being able to swap in a mazda speed 6 transmission... I think I mentioned it earlier...reliability is a huge priority on this build.

In my opinion, I would rather spend a little extra than replace a moderately expensive build that keeps breaking on me. Transmission is one of these things. It is also the primary reason I dont keep modding my WRX. The WRX transmissions are sketchy after exhaust and a tune, it is recommended you swap for a 6 speed sti transmission. Thats 3,000$ and I dont feel like paying 3,000$ just be be able to spend more money on my car lol. This is much more appealing to me.

I have searched for a few weeks and have found zero on the speed 6 swap though, only information on 6 speed swaps. What transmissions (Aside from having a built one) will handle my power goals?
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:18 PM   #25
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Ive never heard of a mazdaspeed6 trans swap. I don't see how it would bolt up...


there's the TII trans swap. Better yet, swap in an LS1 and use the GM trans!
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:19 PM   #26
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I believe the Speed 6 transmission is built in Blackpool, correct?
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:35 PM   #27
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I believe the Speed 6 transmission is built in Blackpool, correct?
In the UK? IDK why would that make a difference?

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there's the TII trans swap. Better yet, swap in an LS1 and use the GM trans!
an LS1 with a GM trans would be WAY easier, economical too!

Good info on the web about the Turbo II swaps! I'll look into those. Thanks!
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:50 PM   #28
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The car went without a top for a while and the floor is totally rusted through on the drivers side, he showed me another piece hacked out of another miata and said it would only cost 75$ to fix. LOL

The search continues.
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