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Noob question... how much to a low 12 second miata?

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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #21  
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Eh.... thats a long debated subject as NA and NB chassis are very similar... i know you can swap whole interiors though lol.

I know the 6spd is rather beefy and i have yet to hear of one breaking from power alone. I know a 6spd with the 3.63 r/p will feel much like a 5spd with the 4.10 r/p + an extra gear. Luckily 5psd transmissions are rather plentiful and are not to hard to install (i've pulled my trans. 4 times lol)

Since there is a LOT of R&D on various parts that can be used on a DIY kit, there is little fabrication. You can buy your manifold, turbo, down pipe readily made for whatever you choose. Your biggest "fab project" would probably be intercooler piping.... and that's not even really that hard. You can always really DIY everything if you really want to though!
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cogz
Yeah, when I start moving up towards 300'ish HP I would likely swap to a beefed up 5 speed or perhaps 6 speed.

However, in my experience more gears don't always mean better.

At this point though, the first step I need to make is to be sure I can comfortably drive a Miata. At 5'11" and 240lbs, I know I need to loose some weight in the long term. I sat in a 2008 Miata in a dealership and barely fit in the drivers side of the passenger compartment. (I couldn't sit on the passenger side comfortably)

If I remember, early Miatas had bigger passenger compartments correct?
I'm 6'0" and 250 and fit comfortably in my 1990. I don't know if the earlier ones are more spacious, but it is plenty of room for me with my seat adjusted so that my knees are just slightly bent with the clutch fully pressed
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 07:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cogz
ps- remember I am coming from big cars where anything less than 300hp is considered weak. Its strange for me to consider 270hp an end goal - but its very possible that I will find complete bliss at that power level.
Cogz -

Don't forget to factor power-to-weight and gear ratios. Raw HP numbers don't answer all the questions.

175 HP in a '72 Caddy *might* make it move, in a Miata would be an enjoyable ride, and in a tube-framed go-kart would be an exercise in control, focus and adrenaline...

- L
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:14 PM
  #24  
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After talking with previous winners of the one lap, they all suggested your first time trying it, you're way better off with something thats more comfortable on the highway, over an all out performance machine.
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #25  
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I can understand that. Plus, the more ragged you run your ride, the more chance of stuff breaking. You learn a lot more (about racing) by driving then you do by wrenching.
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 09:30 PM
  #26  
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My 3K DIY setup put me at 12.7, but thats excluding the suspension work that I had done a few years ago which helped with the hook up. $4k DIY could easily put you low 12s high 11s with EMS and slicks.
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #27  
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Awesome. I now know that what I want to do can be done, and for a reasonable sum.

I consider this topic closed, unless someone else wants to chime in...
Old Feb 1, 2019 | 11:11 AM
  #28  
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BorgWarner 6258 and 12psi. Stock trans, stock rear end MSM with 225 drag radials. somewhere around 220-250

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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 12:19 PM
  #29  
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Bruh. Really? An 11 yeard thread bump?
Old Feb 1, 2019 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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LOL i dont look at dates and im bored at work
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