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Old 03-19-2012, 11:33 PM   #1
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Default Opinions on rear main seal replacement procedure

I am getting ready to put the new engine (01+) into my 90. I have changed all the seals except the rear main seal. I am not sure I can pry the seal out without damaging the metal around. Another option would be to remove the bearing retainer plate above and replace the seal.

Has anybody removed the retainer plate to replace the seal? Is it even possible to remove it without removing the oil pan?

Thanks.
-Raj
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:30 AM   #2
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No, not possible without removing the oil pan.

Actually, it might be, but you probably won't get the little half moon thingy to seal. Either go easy with a screwdriver being careful not to pry on the seal surface, or take the pan off.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:37 AM   #3
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I've done it twice. Easy peasy. Both worked fine and didn't leak afterwards.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:51 AM   #4
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Vlad, are you saying that you removed the seal retainer and it worked OK?

-Raj
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:59 AM   #5
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-get punch and hammer
-hammer one side of seal inwards
-other side pops out.
-pull seal out by hand

This method hasn't failed me.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrider706 View Post
Vlad, are you saying that you removed the seal retainer and it worked OK?

-Raj
You're talking about the little metal round piece that goes around the seal correct? If so, then yes, I removed it, cleaned it, replaced it ( with thin bead of sealant of course) and then put in new seal.

You really don't HAVE to do it that way, but it works if you want to.

Ideally you want one of those curled picks (dunno what its called) that you can poke into the old rear main seal and yank it out carefully. that's how I'd do it next time anyway. Or do it Abe's way which may also work, but I never tried that method.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:43 AM   #7
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I just did it without removing the oil pan. I've also replaced the rear oil pan gasket that goes under rear main seal so it was a bitch to stuff it in without damaging either seal. Just need to be careful, align it perfectly and then press it in place.
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:01 AM   #8
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Make sure when you put the new one in so it is flush with the casting and no further. It may leak if you push it in too far. Doing it twice sucks.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:31 AM   #9
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I am leaning more towards removing the oil pan to make sure it is not leaking. This engine came with a lot of oil all over. I am not sure the oil pan / block interface isn't leaking. I am just afraid of messing up the oil pan while removing it. I have looked at the service manual and can't visualize the plate that needs to be glued inside. It all seems very confusing but, it might be an adventure.

-Raj
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:19 AM   #10
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Do you have even a distant hint of "careful" in your blood?

If so, here's how you do it.

Get two smallish self-tapping sheet metal screws, charge your drill batteries up.

Drill the screws into opposite sides of the seal - but not all the way in.

Pull on the screws to lever out the seal.

I've done probably 3 rear mains this way, never had a problem. Fortunately, the sides of the seal will prevent you from dinging the machined mating surfaces unless you're a complete douchebag with tools, in which case you shouldn't be working on a rear main in the first place.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:13 AM   #11
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I just replaced mine like... Yesterday.

Just got a little itty bitty baby flathead screwdriver, wedged it in carefully, pried slowly, and done. Well... I guess it was kinda a pain, but i'd much rather do that a million times than bench press my transmission back up into place.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:53 AM   #12
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After closer inspection we decided to take the oil pan off and check the inside and reseal everything. Somebody had been in there before and hadn't cleaned the old sealant. It was leaking below the front and back oil pan gasket.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
-Raj
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:20 PM   #13
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I've always drilled two tiny holes in it opposite each other at 180* and used two curved picks to pull it out.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:28 PM   #14
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I have replaced two successfully like 18psi, and use the punch method the second time, finding it easy and less nerve-wracking than fishing with the screwdriver.

Turn the old seal around and slide onto the crankshaft butting up against the new seal. Press a small 2x4 against the old seal and lightly tap board to seat new seal.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:46 PM   #15
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the only thing you should EVER use to remove an oil seal, is an oil seal removal tool. They're like $12 from autoparts store and remove seals in 2 sec without any damage.

Wish me luck....Im gonna be trying to replace the rear oil pan half moon tonight with the engine still in the car.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
Turn the old seal around and slide onto the crankshaft butting up against the new seal. Press a small 2x4 against the old seal and lightly tap board to seat new seal.
I'm glad I'm not the only one to use old fashioned methods.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanV View Post
the only thing you should EVER use to remove an oil seal, is an oil seal removal tool. They're like $12 from autoparts store and remove seals in 2 sec without any damage.

Wish me luck....Im gonna be trying to replace the rear oil pan half moon tonight with the engine still in the car.
Hey Ryan,

The Grim Reaper called.

He wants his thread back.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:07 PM   #18
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This is barely a necropost compared to his other one where he bumped a 5 year old thread.

He's made 3 posts, 2 necros and 1 trying to buy a powercard. wtf
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:47 AM   #19
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hey you know what. **** YOU
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanV View Post
hey you know what. **** YOU
A+ post, would read again.
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