Or you could completely disassemble the entire engine bay and reassemble after cleaning every part like I did.:cool:

updated:


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20013.jpg

oh shit hahaha. I removed my passager seat when I moved mine. lol

No one called me out for posting a pic of my bay from when the car was n/a...

I guess I'll go ahead and play (the engine bay concept has yet to be revealed) /hyper

Attachment 207556

Better WGA is a must w/ Greddy:

Attachment 207557

Y8S -

Reminds me of when I picked up my last Spitfire. The tranny was sitting where the driver's seat belonged, the bonnet was standing at the wall, engine on a pallet behind the car and the interior was in the boot!

- L

Better shot taken tonight. Getting closer to firing her up.

http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/2945/sany0680x.jpg

Damn that's clean!! ^^^
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Here is stage one complete: 6 psi on stock injectors and a MSPNP. Stage two will add bigger injectors, intercooler, and rearend swap.

http://myturbomiata.com/journal/albu.../wardsweb3.jpg

If what you are trying to achieve is control or limit torque reaction, then the angle is all wrong....it would need to attach somewhere low on the vehicle frame, not straight across. That torque strap is not doing a thing.

No, low on the frame is not preferable. Mine worked great, and wasn't even as well designed as Splitime's. It worked even better than the damn-near-solid MMR mounts I had, and didn't transmit as much vibration to the chassis (massive understatement).

Think about the rotation of the engine. The head is much further from the crankshaft's centerline than the location of the engine mounts.

this one's a little old. it's a little different now, samco hoses, different catch can mounted in nose, and couple little odds/ends. plan on changing intake/filter, ic piping to aluminum and more heat shielding for trackdays in summer. it was 105deg. in the shade last august at texas world speedway and 127* track temp.!

Attachment 207543

There are just too few of these Greddy set up... or what's left of it.

That is VERY nice. I like that setup a lot.

Can i request a close up shot of your front T-stat housing? Is that both your front and rear temp sensor in the same location? Looks like the same green connector on the rear. More info please? With my Begi spacer i keep messing these clips up and would like to relocate my rear sensor somehow.

If thats the case whats the thread pitch on the rear sensor?

Did the coolant reroute, took the front Tstat cover to placed it at the rear. Rear T-sensor is moved to the front. Sorry I don't have the threar pitch, just had a machines shop drill and tap those hole for me. Just a note, the T-sensor is pretty long, I had to put couple of Metal rings so that the sensor is not touching the casing at the bottom.

Front http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...65400_4942.jpg
Rearhttp://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/phot...65397_3961.jpg

Homemade kit. (note the copper oil lines, I do Refrigeration Systems for a living).

Was the purpose to avoid the p/s res. on that crossover intake? Looks like a well done DIY though. Really like it.

I DIG the copper lines. If I had the patience/tools, I'd do hardlines also.

And in reference to my 'dampener'.. uh, it works perfectly up there. It is setup to stop the motor from pulling to the passenger side as it does when you rev it. Nothing more. It cost almost nothing to make and consisted of 1 big turn buckle, some bolts/nuts from my misc bolt box and a foot of angle iron/dremel'd/drilled to order.

I have Mazdaspeed motormounts which are nice, but the brace actually tightened it up even more.

Thanks for playing.

What kind of actuator is that and where did you get it from?

It's a generic Garrett and IIRC it's the same as the one sold with the FM1, so you can buy it from FM. I had to get an extension to fit it.