Progressive Nitrous Controler Not Working - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-22-2007, 05:04 PM   #1
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Talking Progressive Nitrous Controler Not Working

I have a Cold Fusion Progressive Controller for my direct port. Two of the buttons on it are not working. One is the button to adjust the on set and ramp settings, so now it's stuck on whatever settings it's on right now. The other is the mode button, which is also in the wrong mode.

A while back, I had a grounding issue and the controller was turning 'on' 'off' 'on' 'off' rapidly and then it came on and turned on my solenoids while the motor was idling (insert new headgasket). I believe that is when these buttons quit working. I've tested to make sure I'm getting +12Volts, a good Ground, etc. The controler comes on, lights up, and works the solenoids on the settings it's at right now, but I can't adjust the settings or mode since the buttons broke.

I e-mailed Cold Fusion about it just asking if it's repairable and what not and they never responded after 3 weeks. I bought this on Ebay, about 8 months ago so I doubt it would do any good to try to contact the seller. Truth be told, those 2 buttons weren't right when I got it new. I had to push them harder than the others to make it work. Now they don't work at all.

Anyone know somebody who fixes these things? I'm tempted to take it apart and start testing all the diodes, resisters, etc and maybe find what broke.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Last edited by patsmx5; 09-24-2007 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 09-22-2007, 05:38 PM   #2
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Lazzer did electronics repairs.
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Old 09-22-2007, 06:01 PM   #3
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Well, I was going to PM Lazzer but he's been banned. I sure hope I can somehow repair this thing because it's 200 dollars and I sure as hell don't want to buy another one.
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:56 AM   #4
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Anyone want to tell me who could fix this controller? I NEED NITROUS!!!
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Old 09-23-2007, 03:00 AM   #5
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shoulda went with a turbo
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Old 09-23-2007, 03:05 AM   #6
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I might get a turbo after I finish my supercharger to go with the nitrous....

J/K- I don't like turbo's. I'll stick with something slow and notorious for breaking ****.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:22 AM   #7
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hmm pat what exactly does the controller do does it send out a variable electronic signale via rpm? or just a DC adjustment on the solenoids? With abit of luck or enginuity you might be able to figure out a replacment. I suck at electronicy **** esp when it comes to soldering.
On that note would these work
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DynoT...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DynoT...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:37 AM   #8
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It pulses the solenoids on and off to controll them. The first one in your link is 75 bucks! Damn, mine was 200. However, mine has a digital display and [was] adjustable. I guess I'm going to open it up and test everything I know how to test and hopefully I will find whatever broke. It would be nice if it was just a open resister or diode that could be fixed cheap.
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:08 AM   #9
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Would a progressive WI controller work as well.
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:23 AM   #10
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I don't think so. The solenoids pull around 10 amps each and there are 2 of them. I really want to fix the controller I have. I'm going to open it up I suppose and see if I can find whatever broke.
Richard: I'm waiting to get a check from the insurance since a guy hit me so I'm going to be ordering MSII whenever I get that check. Also will be ordering a 255HP Walboro, an external regulator, and maybe a few other things. WI is on my list!
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:15 PM   #11
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Fixed it! I took it apart and started testing all the buttons and it turns out I wasn't getting continuity through ANY of the buttons. Anyway, the controller sends out 2 separate voltages to each switch. It has 2 separate ribbon cables that go to the buttons. One has 4 leads that go to the switches, and another ribbon has 2 leads that are power. Low and behold, both power leads had a fold in them and the ribbon had broken, creating an open in the circuit. I removed the ribbon from the connector, cut away the broken area, and reinstalled the connector. Checked it with a meter and all was working. I reinstalled the face of the controller to the rest, plugged it in, and now I have an ADJUSTABLE controller.

Guys, if it wasn't for ALL the brilliant suggestions (cjernigan), great advice (Braineak) and the personal assistance from our forums' own renowned electrical engineer guru himself (magnamx5-m), I may have never been able to properly diagnose and correct the problem. My thanks to all that guided me through this with a watchful eye. I don't know what I would have done without your infinite wisdom and assistance.

Last edited by patsmx5; 09-24-2007 at 08:10 PM.
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