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ive done countless jobs with my machinist and have not had a problem yet...... i tourqe all the mains before it goes to there... i think you still think that your talking to someone that does not know what hes doin.
anyways my preference is rebuilt....maybe because i have the facility and all the tools to do so.. but if don't have the time and knowledge skill to build a engine than by all means source out a used engine.... no problems |
Originally Posted by johndoe
(Post 305114)
I'm not really either. I don't know how long it would take you to have a problem if there should be a problem but I ran 16:1 from TN to NY without a hitch. Car's still running like butta too.
Yeah, but as Ben said. To run that lean you need to compensate with timing. My timing is basically un tuned. More than likely my timing isnt advanced enough to run as lean as I was. BTW, I was running high 16's, low 17's. You live and learn though, once im back up and running, I'll either need to tune my timing better or run a little richer. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
as part of your rebuild, get an EGT gauge. then you'll know. if you're cruising at 1800F.... well there you go. when I was running 16+:1 at cruise, I didn't see over 1400F at the turbo inlet.
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 305214)
as part of your rebuild, get an EGT gauge. then you'll know. if you're cruising at 1800F.... well there you go. when I was running 16+:1 at cruise, I didn't see over 1400F at the turbo inlet.
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Anyone have any suggestions on where to get a new oil pump? I can only find used ones on ebay. I found this http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1012.html but dont know anything about its quality.
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Dude that's a shortnose oil pump.
Phil, this is not going to go well, please buy the FM assembled engine and be done. Go pick it up to save freight charges. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 305348)
Dude that's a shortnose oil pump.
Phil, this is not going to go well, please buy the FM assembled engine and be done. Go pick it up to save freight charges. Yeah Phil I thought for sure you'd be all over that 1.6 for sale. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 305348)
Dude that's a shortnose oil pump.
Phil, this is not going to go well, please buy the FM assembled engine and be done. Go pick it up to save freight charges. Wanna give me a short term loan? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Found the correct pump. Thanks for the info on the one I posted Ben.
http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980 Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Roll your eyes all you want. It's your motor and your money. Feel free to blow both.
As memory serves, that's about the same price as the OE mazda pump. I'd get the OE pump + the billet gears. But see above perspective. |
Hmm, I bet you'll end up spending slightly more than 600-700 by the time the motor's ready to drop in. I sit and wait for the results. :)
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 305363)
Found the correct pump. Thanks for the info on the one I posted Ben.
http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980 Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper? U can get this a ur local advanced and skip the shipping... http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...Number=0280377 |
And I reaaaaallly hope u can find cheaper than this for Mazda pump...
http://www.mazdapartscheap.com/ = $260!!! |
I dont get you guys. I have done a lot searching the past few days and found that there are a few doing a mild build with much support. Samnavy/BenR to name a couple. Sam was planning on doing exactly what im thinking about before he decided he wanted an NB.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...t=15045&page=3 It's pretty much exactly what I expected. Rods: $320 Rebuild Kit: $300 + upgrades of $150= $450 Tri-Coat pistons: $100 Labor: $800 Total of: $1700... a little slop= $1800total. It'll probably be a little more in the end, and I do need a new clutch disc... so the consensus of $2000 for a mild build is accurate. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Eagle rods from lightining motor sports= $339
Tri coating stock pistons= $120 Used pistons that have never seen boost= $55 Oil pump= $180 New tb kit/water pump $100 Labor/machine work/bearings/rings $600-$700 Refresh head= $130 Complete gasket kit= I already have. All that= $1630. Of course I would set aside a couple hundred for anything else. So lets say $1830. Why do you guys find this so hard to believe? If theres anything crucial im missing please let me know. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 304674)
Why the mls one? I searched around here and plenty of people say the stock gasket and bolts are just fine. I dont ever have plans for huge power. 200-220 and i'll be happy for a good while.
Id like to spend as little as possible. No I didnt do a leakdown. I was going to do a compression test but I knew I had a leak somewhere so I figured the readings wouldnt be right anyway. Consider the following: I have an 86' isuzu trooper. It's old, it's not much, but it runs. If the motor blew up tomorrow, I'd probably fix the truck as I like it. Besides I have too much money in it to let it go now. But I damn sure wouldn't sink 2k into it rebuilding it when it's easy to find another good motor in the local junk yards for cheap. I would like to turbocharge this truck one day, for the hell of it. You can buy forged internals for this motor. It's also common to do a conversion to a newer trooper engine. But I'd never do that cause the stock motor in it will do fine, and it's too cheap and easy to replace. Now, if you had said, "I plan to make this car a drag car but it will be my DD too. I will be putting a huge turbo and nitrous on it very soon. What should I do to the motor?" , the consensus would be different. But for your modest goals a new motor isn't necessary. Too many people run stock motors reliably at your power levels. If I were you, I'd swap in another stock 1.6 for CHEAP or buy the built motor that's posted above. Well, I would buy 10 spare motors instead of the built one, but that's me... |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 305404)
Remember this? That's why everyone's saying don't rebuild.
Consider the following: I have an 86' isuzu trooper. It's old, it's not much, but it runs. If the motor blew up tomorrow, I'd probably fix the truck as I like it. Besides I have too much money in it to let it go now. But I damn sure wouldn't sink 2k into it rebuilding it when it's easy to find another good motor in the local junk yards for cheap. I would like to turbocharge this truck one day, for the hell of it. You can buy forged internals for this motor. It's also common to do a conversion to a newer trooper engine. But I'd never do that cause the stock motor in it will do fine, and it's too cheap and easy to replace. Now, if you had said, "I plan to make this car a drag car but it will be my DD too. I will be putting a huge turbo and nitrous on it very soon. What should I do to the motor?" , the consensus would be different. But for your modest goals a new motor isn't necessary. Too many people run stock motors reliably at your power levels. If I were you, I'd swap in another stock 1.6 for CHEAP or buy the built motor that's posted above. Well, I would buy 10 spare motors instead of the built one, but that's me... __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
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