Pulley Wobble on my fully built motor!! - Page 6 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-10-2011, 12:06 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
After making brackets that work the same as the flyin miata one, I put them on the shelf and have done it many, many times this way. (Thanks Paul)

Use the "rope trick" to re-torque.
Now....I want to know what this "rope" trick you speak of is.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:07 PM   #102
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You live life on the edge, I might try this.



True... but i'll never take out all that stuff for a timing belt job.
Well you usually do the water pump when doing the timing belt so the coolant will already be drained, and popping the radiator out is easy.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:18 PM   #103
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Well you usually do the water pump when doing the timing belt so the coolant will already be drained, and popping the radiator out is easy.
Never thought of that, good point
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:20 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by Preluding View Post
Now....I want to know what this "rope" trick you speak of is.
Position cylinder #1 at the beginning of the compression stroke. If you have the timing belt off, just move the cams so that #1 valves are closed and you can do it on any stroke.

Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.

If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:40 PM   #105
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wow... now that sounds a lot more balsy to me.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:50 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Position cylinder #1 at the beginning of the compression stroke. If you have the timing belt off, just move the cams so that #1 valves are closed and you can do it on any stroke.

Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.

If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
I have no idea what the hell is supposed to happen by putting rope in the cylinder...
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:13 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
I have no idea what the hell is supposed to happen by putting rope in the cylinder...
I'll take a stab at it...

Rope in cylinder,
piston comes up and compresses the rope (valves closed to no chance rope getting pinched)
piston cannot reach TDC because rope is blocking it.

Result - You are now able to tighten the crank bolt without having to hold the engine in place
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:40 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Preluding View Post
I'll take a stab at it...

Rope in cylinder,
piston comes up and compresses the rope (valves closed to no chance rope getting pinched)
piston cannot reach TDC because rope is blocking it.

Result - You are now able to tighten the crank bolt without having to hold the engine in place
You got it.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:53 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
I have no idea what the hell is supposed to happen by putting rope in the cylinder...
A bunny pops out of the exhaust

When i pulled mine i had it in 3rd gear with brake up. Worked like charm.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:13 PM   #110
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I have no idea what the hell is supposed to happen by putting rope in the cylinder...
You can also find TDC using the rope, for the purpose of degreeing cams.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:02 PM   #111
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So the crank keyway has no wear in it but the nose of the crank is uneven. It's like the guy shaved about an inch of the crank nose off. It's not even straight. The cut is slanted... So after putting everything back on.. Their is still a wobble at idle. Though when the engine reaches over about 1200rpm. Theres no wobble at all..
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:59 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by Thirdlife911 View Post
Though when the engine reaches over about 1200rpm. Theres no wobble at all..
There is a wobble u just dont see it. Long story short you're fucked. Time to pull that 10k motor and either replace the crank or grind it so its centered via the process i've said on the last page.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:13 AM   #113
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Its not "bent" its worn out more so on one side than it is on the other because the pulley was able to rotate few degrees each way each time you step and let go of the gas carving its way into the crank. On my NA it was the same way (ended up trading it in at the dealer). The proper way to fix it other than replace the crank would be to pull the crank, take .020-.040 cut off of it, get that **** welded all around. Toss it on a high precision grinding machine and grind it down to size then mill out another keyway. Another way would be to add a hardened sleeve instead of welding it.
I'm not gonna weld my Crank though...

I guess that motors gonna blow the **** up I suppose. Bye Bye 10k motor =[
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:27 AM   #114
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Wow, you're gonna trash all that money and work you have over a part that you can find all day for $100 or less, or even repair for damn near no money, save for time spent pulling the engine.

The more you post the more you continue to prove you aren't cut out to have a fast car.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:30 AM   #115
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I'm not gonna weld my Crank though...

I guess that motors gonna blow the **** up I suppose. Bye Bye 10k motor =[
Didn't we already determine that 10k motor is actually like 2k?
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:33 AM   #116
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Please... "tasty danish" find me a crank for $100.00 . What method do you suggest? File down my crank even more? If I shave more down to make it even there will be barely any threads for the bolt to grab onto.. I'm a full time college student and don't have the money to pay someone to pull the motor and put in a new crank. Nor do I have the knowledge, parts or time to do all of this.

Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.

I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:35 AM   #117
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Didn't we already determine that 10k motor is actually like 2k?
No the motor has well at or over 10k in it.

The guy who built the car has threads all over the Miata.net forum. He states and shows where the money is spent.. Well over 10k in the motor.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:38 AM   #118
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You're fucked. Game over.

Sell someone here your motor who knows how to take it apart.

And then kill yourself for the win.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:43 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by Thirdlife911 View Post
Please... "tasty danish" find me a crank for $100.00 . What method do you suggest? File down my crank even more? If I shave more down to make it even there will be barely any threads for the bolt to grab onto.. I'm a full time college student and don't have the money to pay someone to pull the motor and put in a new crank. Nor do I have the knowledge, parts or time to do all of this.

Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.

I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
Full of fail. You can find short blocks on here for NO MONEY at all. I almost bought a complete 1.8 block for $50, YES 50, but someone beat me to it.

And how would welding the crank be a sure way to blow your ****? Even more sure fire than running haggard-*** busted ****? Again, new crank, $50. Or if it's knife edged and all the JDM fa66otry, weld it. If you think pulling an engine is hard... oy vey... Rent a crane, spend an afternoon, DONE.

Better yet, don't listen to the guys that have been there done that, and are trying to help you. Spend extra money and get sick of this car and sell it. I'm sure some of us out there need parts.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:49 AM   #120
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tasty danish

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