ruger988

Anybody got a write up on replacing the whole differential (not just the guts) i figure it should be pretty straight forward but a write up couldn't hurt (1.6 open being replaced with 1.6 VLSD)

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

it is the same dif, so instal is the reverse of removal

ruger988

I know that...but a step by step would probably be helpful versus just lifting it up and starting to rip **** out....going to be doing this on jackstands and m back by the way....hopefully in my garage and not the driveway where she sits now

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

.net garage section has a wright up.
http://www.miata.net/garage/diff_rr.html

ruger988

yea, found that earlier, but i don't need to rip the guts out...swapping out the whole housing...o well shouldn't be too difficult, i'll just figure it out when i get the new diff.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

has anybody found one for the 1.6 to 1.8...or is it just the same as swapping out the 1.6?

ruger988

from what i've been able to find....it's the same thing...just swap out the housing, axles, and driveshaft. But i don't know for 100% sure.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

then ignore the guts part and do the rest. yes if you have the parts it is all the same swap.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Writeup doesn't include directions for diff housing removal.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

oh i never read it the dif is held in by 2 bolts aside from the PPF bolts you need to pull the axles first as well. this migth entail removing your shocsk and springs i dunno, maybe you can get away with unbolting at the stub shafts and then unding the driveshaft and ppf then the holding bolts. when mine is done i'll post up a detailed how to.

ruger988

exactly what im looking for though, LOL

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Its 2 big bolts, it should be very obvious.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

If ur just swapping out the entire diff housing (and axles I guess).. Not in right order exactly...

Loosen axle nuts
jackup car (remove tire)
undo ppf at tranny IIRC (support tranny with jackstand as it will sit down and ur engine will hit the firewall)
support diff housing and undo axle nuts and driveshaft
Pull out driveshaft
undo wiring on ppf (clips and one ground wire bolted in)
undo diff housing support brackets (the ones on the arms of the housing)
Lower the housing down (w/ppf attached)
and pull out from under car
Beat out axles with soft face/dead blow hammer (lub it up with penetrating oil first)
clean out axle hubs and lub up for installation ease, then do everything backwards lol, hopefully that helps.

ruger988

decided to take a look at my hayne's right before i read this post...it gives a VERY brief outline on how to remove it (11 steps total) but it says that removing the exhaust is necessary....my miata is 200 miles away right now so i can't exactly look and see, but is that true? if it is then i'll have to take my air tools up when i go to do the swap too, and that's gonna be a PITA in a 240SX, LOL

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

once i do mine i was going to do a writeup on how to do the RX7 LSD in a 1.8 carrier swap

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

air tools nah shouldnt need those less your a ***** and cant get a good torque going. exhaust removal, doesnt look necessary on mine how it sits so use your discretion.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

writeups for stuff that's in the FSM? how about just a photocopy.

the LSD thing is key though. that article from randy is imposible to read.

Starsky

iTrader: (1)

I've added some notes to dc2696's post in bold:

-Loosen axle nuts car in gear, tires chocked, may need someone on the brakes too. Get a 3/4 drive breaker bar, I broke my 1/2 drive breaker bar on this step
-jackup car put on jack stands(remove tire)
-remove exhaust from cat back, not mandatory but highly recommended. I did one once where the supercharged car had a one piece exhaust and we would have had to pull the blower to get the exhaust out. We got the diff out around the exhaust. It was a PITA though
-undo ppf at tranny IIRC (support tranny with jackstand as it will sit down and ur engine will hit the firewall) I'd only take out one bolt and just loosen the other. This lets the PPF swing out of the way of the diff but stay attached to the car, then you don't need to worry about the wiring
-undo the 4 bolts that attach the drive shaft to the diff and the 4 bolts per side for the half shafts
-Pull out driveshaft if you want or just seperate it from the diff and let it hang from the tranny.
-for two piece half shafts (1.6 and early 1.8), you can seperate them and work the end of the long half of the shaft past the studs on the short half. It will just work if you curse enough. It sometimes helps to put a jack under the hub and lift it until the control arm is level. This gives the most clearance. Be careful not to lift the car off the jack stand though
-undo wiring on ppf (clips and one ground wire bolted in) not necessary if leaving the PPF attached to the tranny
-undo diff housing support brackets (the ones on the arms of the housing)
-Beat out axles with soft face/dead blow hammer (lub it up with penetrating oil first) since you are doing a 1.6 to 1.6 swap, the half shafts don't need to come out of the hub, only needed for a 1.8 swap. Just leave them in, you can also leave the axel nuts on from step one
-clean out axle hubs and lub up for installation ease

For reassembly, the diff goes in first then the drive shafts and the exhaust last.

If the car is winter driven, expect to have problems with the bolts through both ends of the PPF. You definately don't want to break these ones, unless you have another PPF to use. Use lots of penetrating oil.

Have fun.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

exactly, the actual 1.6 to 1.8 swap part will be simple.

Starsky

iTrader: (1)

Words of wisdom spoken by someone who has never experianced the ease that air tools bring to a job.

If you have them, use them. If not, like magnamx says, you shouldn't need them.