Replaced Head Gasket... D'OH!!!
I think this thread will be a race to see who'll be the first one to call me a dumbass. But, I figured I'd give it a shot.
I pulled the head... not nearly as hard as I'd thought even though everybody was telling me it would be easy. It just took me some time since I wasn't following any directions other than "disconnect everything and then ubolt the head." I left both the manifolds which made things a little easier. I scraped both surfaces with a razor-blade and put it back together. The old gasket didn't look bad, but I didn't know what would look bad anyway. It fired right up and was still pissing white smoke out the exhaust. Old Compression Numbers 1-4: 191 189 130 125 New Compression Numbers 1-4: 205 195 135 125 When I pulled the #3 spark plug, there was steam coming out of the cylinder. NOTICE ANYTHING SIMILAR? Yup, replacing the HG didn't do shit! I suspect that my head is warped a little after all... does anybody concur? |
sounds like a warp to me or at least the head is not seating properly at the back end.
what are the compression numbers in your sig? |
Probably... and you can probably still use that head gasket if it doesn't look harshed.
Mark |
Did you check the block/head for flatness while it was off?
Did you replace the head bolts or have ARP studs? Did you clean the threads in the block and oil the threads on the fastener when putting it back together? |
who'll be the first one to call me a dumbass |
use some restore, its garenteed to raise compression, lol and when all else fails, JB weld, or quicksteel
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LOL, did I not tell you to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed? Do it, and while it's off again, check that the block is not warped with a straight edge and feeler gauge. .004" (1mm) is max acceptable gap.
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
(Post 188919)
Did you check the block/head for flatness while it was off?
Did you replace the head bolts or have ARP studs? Did you clean the threads in the block and oil the threads on the fastener when putting it back together? No. No cleaning, but did oil. Now that it's had a heat cycle through it, do you think it would be worth it to pull the valve cover and torque the bolts again?
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 188934)
LOL, did I not tell you to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed? Do it, and while it's off again, check that the block is not warped with a straight edge and feeler gauge. .004" (1mm) is max acceptable gap.
Well, at least the work this time won't take as long. I think the total job to remove the head took about 4hours... that's 1hour to do the work, and 3hours of cleaning along the way. Reinstall took about 3 hours, but 1hr of that was to re-wrap my heater core hoses with new wrap. |
your should get the head machined everytime you remove it from the block. Jay |
All squids have weird heads. :)
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dumbass.... I WIN! :)
what do i get? |
ohh,by the way.... sorry to hear what happened :(
any chance you have a reference as to where i can get the torque ratings for each bolt while taking stuff apart? |
torque ratings don't matter when you are taking things apart. apply enough torque that the nuts/bolts break loose. :D
when putting things back together try these specs http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html |
do you take a look at the cylinder walls while it was off? were #3 and #4 pistons cleaner than the rest?
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I did. All the pistons and cylinders looked exactly the same. No scoring on any of the walls and only what I would call "extemely minimal" carbon buildup on the piston-tops and combustion chamber. Overall, it looked REALLY clean.
This time I will have the head planed and I will gauge the block. I will also clean the threads with the proper tap. How much and where to buy upgraded head-bolts and what is the benefit? If the motor finally blows at some future point and I decide to go with a mild build, can I reuse the ARP's that I might buy now? GoKuUx, you win a smilie!:friday: |
ARP studs, cheapest place I've seen is miataroadster.com. but I'd say f-it on this motor.
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Yes, studs are re-usable. You can swap them over to a new motor. They are very much worth the investment in my opinion. even more so since i've had stockers stretch on me before.
I've never had a head milled or checked by a shop. I just use the edge of a metal yard stick and feeler gauges. If you are within .004 on both sides you should be in good shape. |
Sam,
I have a 1.6 engine calling your name. Give me a call. |
Originally Posted by paul
(Post 188994)
torque ratings don't matter when you are taking things apart. apply enough torque that the nuts/bolts break loose. :D
when putting things back together try these specs http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html as for samnavy... if you have a 1.6L... https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14945 transfer what is needed from the old motor to the new |
Originally Posted by xXxGoKoUxXx
(Post 189186)
specific torque ratings for like... lifter bolts and such
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