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Old 12-22-2007, 09:38 PM   #1
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Default Replaced Head Gasket... D'OH!!!

I think this thread will be a race to see who'll be the first one to call me a dumbass. But, I figured I'd give it a shot.

I pulled the head... not nearly as hard as I'd thought even though everybody was telling me it would be easy. It just took me some time since I wasn't following any directions other than "disconnect everything and then ubolt the head." I left both the manifolds which made things a little easier.

I scraped both surfaces with a razor-blade and put it back together. The old gasket didn't look bad, but I didn't know what would look bad anyway. It fired right up and was still pissing white smoke out the exhaust.

Old Compression Numbers 1-4:
191 189 130 125

New Compression Numbers 1-4:
205 195 135 125

When I pulled the #3 spark plug, there was steam coming out of the cylinder.

NOTICE ANYTHING SIMILAR? Yup, replacing the HG didn't do ****! I suspect that my head is warped a little after all... does anybody concur?
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:41 PM   #2
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sounds like a warp to me or at least the head is not seating properly at the back end.

what are the compression numbers in your sig?
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:11 PM   #3
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Probably... and you can probably still use that head gasket if it doesn't look harshed.

Mark
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:15 PM   #4
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Did you check the block/head for flatness while it was off?

Did you replace the head bolts or have ARP studs?

Did you clean the threads in the block and oil the threads on the fastener when putting it back together?
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
who'll be the first one to call me a dumbass
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:57 PM   #6
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use some restore, its garenteed to raise compression, lol and when all else fails, JB weld, or quicksteel
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:27 AM   #7
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LOL, did I not tell you to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed? Do it, and while it's off again, check that the block is not warped with a straight edge and feeler gauge. .004" (1mm) is max acceptable gap.
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
Did you check the block/head for flatness while it was off?
Did you replace the head bolts or have ARP studs?
Did you clean the threads in the block and oil the threads on the fastener when putting it back together?
No.
No.
No cleaning, but did oil. Now that it's had a heat cycle through it, do you think it would be worth it to pull the valve cover and torque the bolts again?


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Originally Posted by Ben View Post
LOL, did I not tell you to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed? Do it, and while it's off again, check that the block is not warped with a straight edge and feeler gauge. .004" (1mm) is max acceptable gap.
You did, and I will. Hopefully my shop isn't taking too much time off for the holidays.

Well, at least the work this time won't take as long. I think the total job to remove the head took about 4hours... that's 1hour to do the work, and 3hours of cleaning along the way.
Reinstall took about 3 hours, but 1hr of that was to re-wrap my heater core hoses with new wrap.
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
your should get the head machined everytime you remove it from the block.
I guess the wise man that told me that was correct. Hope you get it sorted out quick and with little hassle.

Jay
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Old 12-23-2007, 03:53 AM   #10
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All squids have weird heads.
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:26 AM   #11
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dumbass.... I WIN!

what do i get?
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:27 AM   #12
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ohh,by the way.... sorry to hear what happened :(

any chance you have a reference as to where i can get the torque ratings for each bolt while taking stuff apart?
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:42 AM   #13
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torque ratings don't matter when you are taking things apart. apply enough torque that the nuts/bolts break loose.

when putting things back together try these specs http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html
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Old 12-23-2007, 01:38 PM   #14
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do you take a look at the cylinder walls while it was off? were #3 and #4 pistons cleaner than the rest?
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:01 PM   #15
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I did. All the pistons and cylinders looked exactly the same. No scoring on any of the walls and only what I would call "extemely minimal" carbon buildup on the piston-tops and combustion chamber. Overall, it looked REALLY clean.
This time I will have the head planed and I will gauge the block. I will also clean the threads with the proper tap.

How much and where to buy upgraded head-bolts and what is the benefit?
If the motor finally blows at some future point and I decide to go with a mild build, can I reuse the ARP's that I might buy now?

GoKuUx, you win a smilie!
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:14 PM   #16
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ARP studs, cheapest place I've seen is miataroadster.com. but I'd say f-it on this motor.
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:06 PM   #17
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Yes, studs are re-usable. You can swap them over to a new motor. They are very much worth the investment in my opinion. even more so since i've had stockers stretch on me before.

I've never had a head milled or checked by a shop. I just use the edge of a metal yard stick and feeler gauges. If you are within .004 on both sides you should be in good shape.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:55 AM   #18
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Sam,
I have a 1.6 engine calling your name. Give me a call.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
torque ratings don't matter when you are taking things apart. apply enough torque that the nuts/bolts break loose.

when putting things back together try these specs http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html
thanks for the help paul... but i looked there already, and i was looking for specific torque ratings for like... lifter bolts and such

as for samnavy... if you have a 1.6L...

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14945

transfer what is needed from the old motor to the new
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxGoKoUxXx View Post
specific torque ratings for like... lifter bolts and such
Can you show me a picture of said "lifter bolt", i think you are on crack. the closest thing I can think of would be a "cam bearing cap" which hold the cam down on top of the lifters.
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