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Old 10-29-2006, 03:28 PM   #21
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The Jackson pump is a 190 LPH low pressure.
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Old 10-29-2006, 07:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
i thought walbro's were reliable. I don't know what pump to buy.
well every other car that I've had a walbro in has been reliable, but this freakin 99 miata.... man its always something with this car. That pump has been in there for somewhere around 45-50k miles and at least 75% of that was with that fuel pressure raising pill that came with the old JRSC kits when it still had the SC on it.
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Old 10-29-2006, 07:56 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Wideopentuning View Post
The Jackson pump is a 190 LPH low pressure.
ahhh thank you, its nice to be sure.
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Old 10-29-2006, 10:04 PM   #24
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interesting tidbit I just found a few moments ago that would apply to the NB owners at least:

Quote:
Originally Posted by www.lightningmotorsports.com/walbro.htm
Leading causes of Walbro Fuel Pump Death

1. Debris, normally in the form of fine silt that can make its way past the 30 micron filter sock. When no filter-sock is used or if it is not installed properly, it is not unheard of to find pieces of sand, string, metal shavings, and rubber bits. This is what kills 99% of all Walbro Fuel pumps.

2. Water present in tank (corrosion of the pump gears)

3. Dropping of the pump, can break off the nipple at the very least. Dropping the fuel pump can also knock off the cam ring causing the fuel pump to bind and either decrease flow or completely bind up the fuel pump. Dropping the pump can also break the internal magnets and weaken or destroy the magnetic field cause decreased output or no output.

4. Operating the fuel pump without fuel; this melts some of the internal gears.

5. Using the fuel pump in a returnless (pulse width modulated) fuel system. (Late model Mustang, RSX, etc...)
so it would seem since we NB owners have this type of system, maybe this could have been the cause of death for my pump... interesting for sure as I've never heard this before.
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:10 PM   #25
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I've got a stock pump out of my Subaru Forester XT (detuned WRX STI motor). I just replaced it with a Walbro. Same size (a bit shorter actually) than the Walbro. You're welcome to it for $25 shipped. These cars are 2.5 turboed (T04) from the factory so it should be up to the task.

Frank
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Old 10-30-2006, 08:37 PM   #26
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oh I've already ordered a new pump and still have my stock pump as well actually

but thanks for the offer!
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:40 AM   #27
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for what its worth I finally found some time to go pull the old pump out. Model number on the pump is GSS342 which means its the 255 HP pump holy crap no wonder that thing was so damn loud. And talk about freakin overkill, jeezus that thing could power 4x the power I'm making.

So in light of that, I am sticking with ordering a 190lph.
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:47 PM   #28
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Default UPDATE: Piece of **** car

so I finally got the 190 pump in the mail today (took lightningmotorsports.com over an entire week to even ship it ) and went to put it in the car a little bit ago. Swapped it in and put it all back together and..... nothing. This ******* piece of **** still doesn't turn on the pump.

WHAT THE HELL am I missing here????? The connector on top of the tank is getting power, the fuel pump relay under the dash is working, but I still don't get the pump to RUN

jeez I don't even know what else to check now and my hands still stink like gasoline even after a shower. Ideas anyone? I'm open to anything!
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:48 PM   #29
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does it run when the car is ON, and FP and GND are jumped?
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:50 PM   #30
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Nope and I don't know why
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:00 PM   #31
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Uhm, so you probed the connector with a dvm to make sure you had +12V and ground at the pump right?

Did you hook the pump temporarily to a 12v source?

If ya have power, the new pump is suspect.
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:52 PM   #32
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I had a hell of a time trying to diagnose a similar (though not the same) problem. I thought it was the relay, and tested the relay several times, and each time it tested OK. But still had the problem. Finally broke down and ordered a new relay out of frustration, and guess what-everything worked fine.

Since you have jumped the wires in the diagnostic box (the correct wires?) and still don't have power to the pump, I would try to trace down all of the power connections to the pump. Is there a fuse somewhere? Get ahold of a electrical schematic for your particular model and trace everything back from the pump. Clean every connection, make sure the grounds are clean, also.
I know it ain't fun, but what else can you do? Good luck!
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Old 11-08-2006, 10:55 PM   #33
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yeah I know its not fun, thing is I've done all of those suggestions. I checked and tested all fuses, have the wiring diagrams and checked out everything with those. Honestly I think its the connection between the connector on top of the tank and connector on the pump itself. Somewhere in that 4-6" of wire there is something wrong, there just has to be. I would have checked it myself but the gas fumes were giving me a headache and I was kind of pissed off already lol, maybe I'll get to it tomorrow if I have time.
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:58 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritch View Post
yeah I know its not fun, thing is I've done all of those suggestions. I checked and tested all fuses, have the wiring diagrams and checked out everything with those. Honestly I think its the connection between the connector on top of the tank and connector on the pump itself. Somewhere in that 4-6" of wire there is something wrong, there just has to be. I would have checked it myself but the gas fumes were giving me a headache and I was kind of pissed off already lol, maybe I'll get to it tomorrow if I have time.
Make sure you have continuity on the ground wire at the pump. Sounds silly, but I've had two friends so far spend days on figuring out why one radio wouldnt work and othe other a fuel pump. Turned out they checked everything down to the pump/radio except for the ground. One of them had broken off and the other had corroded to the point it was extremely high resistance.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:42 PM   #35
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UPDATE:

it was the connector thats on top of the tank. Its was burnt/melted on the underside (power wire, in tank) for some reason. Wire was brittle and broke off easily. Had to get a used assembly to replace that connector since the original was pretty mangled and unusable. Jump FP to GND and.... its working again!
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