Matt--Mad props on the shrouding

 

The two biggest offenses in XxGoKoUxX's car are 1) the IC is flush with the front of the car, and 2) there's open areas for all the air to just blow right through the mouth. Remedy those and things will improve. Even though you've move the IC back and reduced the rad exposure, sealing off the leaks will still get more air to the rad.

I feel like I've got a good handle on coolant temps at this point using a race radiator, sealing off the mouth and a hood extractor. And that's with a traditional FMIC setup. I did take advantage of some available vertical space and use a taller rad so it has some direct exposure to air flow. My fan has yet to come on stopped at a traffic light this year. That's with 80f ambient and sunshine.

I agree with Matt - I've come to the conclusion that if it gets temps under control without screwing anything else up, then it works for me.

Here's the exchanger stack and the current shroud job on the mouth:

 

Geez, I need to work on my shrouding I guess. I'm still using the stock nose deflector and undertray.

 

we need to have a pre summer tech day specifically to cut sheets of plastic into trays/shrouds/ducts.

I've got the lifts...

 

Indeed. I'd even take a day off work for it, since the rest of the weekends in May are shot.

 

Yeah, mine too, and I'm pretty busy next month as well.
The weekend would really be best for total access to lifts and tools.

 

That shroud looks awesome, what air intake and water temps are you running? Cruising, and under boost?

 

guys I highly recommend an air rivet gun for the shrouding work- it makes it WAY easy. I'm using a harborfreight unit that was $25 on sale.

At near 80f ambient coolant temps are 190f peak cruising or under boost - as long as I'm at speed. When coming to a stop they've never gotten over 92c oddly enough- usually dithering between 90-92c. That's after the hood extractor install. Prior to that, the fan would always come on after the car stopped at a light. I'm sure that'll change once summer sets in.

To complete the job, I think I need build an undertray like the factory unit to prevent the pressure rise from the underside of the car. Right now, any air coming under the front lip is pressurizing the back side of the rad- the only saving grace there is the extractor.

 

talk about taking cooling to the next level! holy cow....

these shrouding jobs you guys do do NOT look simple at all =/

 

It's really not that complicated. Use cardboard first to create a template for test fit. Then trace it over to sheet plastic and trim it out. Make your bends, hold it in place, drill and rivet. Doesn't have to be pretty either- it's under the car.

 

thanks m2! i'll definitely come back with pictures one of these weeks... and i'll post it up in here if things turn out successful!

 

Matt+M2 thanks for the great explanations, pics, and patience..lol

Matt, sorry thought i had posted it before...18x12x3 ic, i think its on the smaller side, or what several people are using..

Anyway, very interesting stuff guys...I have a sheet of abs plastic waiting to become my undertray, should have a decent amount leftover and might just have to try this!

 

lol... sounds like WIN!

 

fyi, had some decent overheating again today... FTL
It's kinda odd, drove it to work this morning...let it warm up, 3miles to the highway, 20miles on the highway, 2miles to the office...needle never budged...

Get in to go home, 2miles to the highway, 20miles on the highway (about 10in heavy traffic), 3miles off the highway, needle never budged..

I run into the store for 15min, come out start her up and before i get out of the parking lot i notice the needle is at the 1oclock position...Start to drive doesnt get worse, but not better either (only 1 mile to get home from store).

This was all with close to 90* temps outside and ac on....running 5lbs, 70/30mix
sorry i didnt have my laptop to give actual temps...

I dont have my undertray on, and I know that can be it right there...but kinda weird no?? Throughout the whole commute this was the last plae I thought i'd see a rise in temps...(ie more likely at idle after a stint on the highway, or at a light, in traffic,etc)

 

seems like it's not all just the undertray... but maybe your fans?

 

tvalenziano- run a datalog so you can see what you're temps are actually doing

 

Yea, I'm gonna do that...like I said I really dunno y I haven't already....just keep forgetting to take the laptop on the way to work...

Anyway, she's up on stands for now...adressing brakes (pads, rotors, ss lines, motul), gonna make/install my undertray, and while I'm at it HD lips...

Soon as she's back on all 4 I'll do a datalog and show you guys...

Fans are working as of about 20min before this incident happened...

I'm gonna do my best to see what different solutions really accomplish...
I'm on stock cooling system right now, as mentioned 70/30 (approx) mix...(no undertray/alum rad cowl cover)..

I have the ABS (as mentioned) to make the undertray, so that will be 1st attempt, got 2 12" fans, new thermostat, bottle of water wetter, and a Godspeed rad (on order). Also with the extra ABS I can look into making a fan shroud, and possibly sealing the radiator...
(sorry so long)

 

I can't wait to deal with heat on the track. I'm still worried that I'll have to hack the bumper to death.

 

I don't think hacking the nose is going to fix the problem. You need to cover the rest of the fundamentals first.

This comes from someone who has hacked up a nose without having the fundamentals done. And it didn't do anything.

 

It will get a proper shroud too, I just have too big of an intercooler to do what you've done, and don't have the fab skills. I have a stock nose on the car, the big begi intercooler, a 2" radiator, 24-row oil cooler, coolant reroute, and I plan on making a proper undertray...but it gets really, really hot in texas.

I'm going to start by closing up the front around the rad, then cutting a vent in the hood (hopefully the reversed mini vent is big enough), then move on to hacking the bumper.
I'm going to follow your example with my oil cooler too:


I need to get all c6r-on this ****.