Sorted out all my LC1 problems, but one. - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-27-2007, 01:53 PM   #21
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sam likes making things more difficult than they are....it's in his blood
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compy View Post
Why are you guys making it so difficult? Buy an add-a-fuse, and use the engine fuse. It provides 12V+ when key is in 3rd position, cranking, and running. Power solved.

I have a 2001 so the ECU is right under my feet, along with the wiring for the gauge, and everything else I shove above the footwell. I use a mini add a fuse, tap the box by your left kneecap, and the power wire runs three inches to the controller.
This is pretty simple, ill look here if I cant get it anywhere else.

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I think it DOES say in the manual to use a powered when cranking source. I'm not going to open it up and quote the text for ya this time though.
The MS uses more power than the stock ecu did. When there's additional power demand, you should add additional power delivery capability. It's your car, so you can do WTF you want. But if you want to ask for advice from people who have already successfully accomplished what you haven't, you should at least listen to it.

But WTF do I know. I've only been running my LC/XD for 18 months and a MS for 6 months.
Well it doesn't, so don't bother quoting the manual.

Even their video says to use a switched 12volt source.

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sam likes making things more difficult than they are....it's in his blood
I am not trying, really I am not. I want to solve this as easily as I solved all my other issues.
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:51 PM   #23
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see how difficult you are!
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:51 PM   #24
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Of ******* course it says to use a switched source.
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:41 PM   #25
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Of ******* course it says to use a switched source.
But not necessarily meaning one that is on during running and cranking.

Yea, kinda retarded manual. Its just one of many things that need clarification.
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Old 12-29-2007, 04:27 PM   #26
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Well that was easy. The maf harness wires were right there where my LC1 controller is, next to the clutch master cylinder. I tapped the white with red stripe all is well.

No running wires to batteries or reinventing the wheel.
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Old 12-30-2007, 12:24 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post

No running wires to batteries or reinventing the wheel.
I'd like to see you try.
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:10 PM   #28
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I'd like to see you try.
I dont think ill be able to top the tweel.
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:41 PM   #29
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sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I spent an hour searching and this was the closest to the problem I am having.

Sam, did you resolve this issue?

you have PM
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Old 10-16-2008, 07:32 PM   #30
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Don't know if Sam figured it out. But mine is still wired to the switched radio hot, it's not on all the time and works great.
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Old 10-16-2008, 07:43 PM   #31
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Yea, I resolved the problem.

I took the harsh criticism in the many threads I made about my LC1 problems and read the manual word for word and followed it EXACTLY.

OZMX5 where are you getting power, where are your grounds, do you have the LC1 outputting to something other then a gauge?
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:01 PM   #32
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you resolved it by tapping it where? (installing mine this weekend)
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:43 PM   #33
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While it was under the hood, before I got the turbo going, I solved all the problems by tapping it off the MAF power, white with a red stripe.

Grounded to the strap behind the block. I also had a megasquirt ground ran there.

Now I have it powered from the ECU power behind the passenger seat. Its grounded to the chassis(ECU bracket) with one of the ground of the megasquirt.

Megasquirt also has one ground running to the engine bay thats still grounded to the block.

The biggest problem for the LC1 is a power source that turns on and off very quickly, it has to be HOT during cranking.
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:47 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
The biggest problem for the LC1 is a power source that turns on and off very quickly, it has to be HOT during cranking.
I bet all your teachers hated you...
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:55 PM   #35
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Improper use of a comma and a run on scentence?
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Old 10-16-2008, 09:53 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
OZMX5 where are you getting power, where are your grounds, do you have the LC1 outputting to something other then a gauge?
From memory, power is fed through either a spare/blank wire under the steering column or tapped into dash lights circuit, so either way, as the instructions states, it only comes on when the key is turned to the "on" position.

I have an NA8 so ground for the LC-1 is attached to the standard ECU ground under the throttle body.

And no, the only output from my LC-1 is into MegaSquirt. The "gauge" I mentioned in the message I sent you is an on-screen display, not a standalone gauges as such.

alot of people in other threads state "do a free-air calibration" but I don't think it will solve it, as it's a random occurrence.
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:14 PM   #37
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Oh, forgot to mention, on the occassion the LC-1 shows only a super rich 7.5AFR, or super lean 21.99AFR reading, the engine runs normally, no stumbling, no rough idle, no loss of power etc
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:15 PM   #38
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FYI - When I was having trouble with my LC-1, Innovate Tech support suggested over the phone that I use a power source that is NOT on during cranking. They had seen problems with corruption of data due to the voltage drop during cranking. So even though the manual says to have it hot during cranking, at least according to Innovate tech support it does not have to be that way, and changing this can actually solve some issues.

Long story short I tried it both ways and still had problems. I have since sent my LC-1 and sensor back to Innovate to get checked out. I have not heard back from them yet as they just got it yesterday.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:02 PM   #39
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jesus christ, you're worse than me.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZMX-5 View Post
From memory, power is fed through either a spare/blank wire under the steering column or tapped into dash lights circuit, so either way, as the instructions states, it only comes on when the key is turned to the "on" position.
Move it to a power source that is hot in cranking and see what happens. The blue(i think) ignition wire from the key is one place. You can also search around in the fuse box for an alternate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
So even though the manual says to have it hot during cranking, at least according to Innovate tech support it does not have to be that way, and changing this can actually solve some issues.
In my case the constant on-off-on was screwing it up.

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I bet all your teachers hated you...
I want to say english is not my first language but taking into account how long I live in this country that would probably be a lie.

Besides, its not like im getting graded or anything.
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