Standard vs MSM axles
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,020
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From: Athens, Greece
Does anyone have any hard data on the actual differences between a 95.5-05 and an MSM axle? I've read in many different posts about the MSM axle being beefier on the inner splines, but what about the rest of the shaft, including the joints?
The joints are different, beefier design on the MSM axles. I know the outer joint is bigger and a different design, and the axle shaft diameter is larger as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 369
From: Athens, Greece
Does anyone have any comparison pics or data? Looks like this is the only option for people looking for serious power, before the Ford 8.8 or Getrag driveshaft shop kit.
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 369
From: Athens, Greece
They don't "bolt up".
They need an adapter plate or converted bellhousing (I'm using the latter).
You need a modified PPF adapter to get it to line up to the diff correctly, and a shorter driveshaft.
As for the FC diff, I'm looking to keep costs at a minimum, this means that if the MSM axles can handle 500whp, and I get to keep everything else on the car as-is, that's good enough for me.
They need an adapter plate or converted bellhousing (I'm using the latter).
You need a modified PPF adapter to get it to line up to the diff correctly, and a shorter driveshaft.
As for the FC diff, I'm looking to keep costs at a minimum, this means that if the MSM axles can handle 500whp, and I get to keep everything else on the car as-is, that's good enough for me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 369
From: Athens, Greece
The mazdaspeed uses a trypoid type inner CV that is much more durable. also has bigger splines going into the Diff and the shafts themselves are bigger diameter. I suspect the mazdaspeed ones would be pretty bullet proof.
At over 300 ft-lbs to the rear wheels and frequently using sticky Hoosier rubber I've managed to twist one standard rear axle in two where it plugs into the outer CV and I consider the Inner CV's a wear Item. After about a year of use the ***** on the inner CV start to create deep divots in the housing I replace them when there starts to be just a huge amount of rotational slop. For the most part I would say the Inner CV's won't handle the load but but the failure mode is usually more like accelerated wear than catastrophic.
At over 300 ft-lbs to the rear wheels and frequently using sticky Hoosier rubber I've managed to twist one standard rear axle in two where it plugs into the outer CV and I consider the Inner CV's a wear Item. After about a year of use the ***** on the inner CV start to create deep divots in the housing I replace them when there starts to be just a huge amount of rotational slop. For the most part I would say the Inner CV's won't handle the load but but the failure mode is usually more like accelerated wear than catastrophic.
Last edited by bbundy; Nov 29, 2015 at 07:30 PM.
They actually work fine if replaced yearly. The only axle I twisted in two already had past the normal replacement window. I keep my eyes pealed for cheap used replacements all the time usually an Ebay Auction. I frequently find the only available source is salvage yards or Ebay. Nobody has new or rebuilds in stock. Mazdaspeed ones are hard to come by and require a different diff and I'm guessing there several pounds heavier.
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Bob I just bought 2 axles for $55 each from advanced auto. they shipped a few days ago and should be here on the 3rd.
Brand new not reman. Code trt30. Go order 20
Brand new not reman. Code trt30. Go order 20
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 369
From: Athens, Greece






