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Old 12-18-2008, 09:49 AM   #1
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Default Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips

First off, there is a minor problem. You will need to get two #10 machine screws to replace the #8's that I supplied with the rails. These are used to mount the fuel line brackets. The #8's are just a bit too small. I discovered this after I had packed the rails. Sorry.

Jack up the car and put it on jackstands as high as you can get it. Try to ensure that the car is as level as possible so as to not induce any twist when you bolt up the rails. You have to drill from the bottom, so give yourself as much room to work as possible.

Remove the seats and carpet. The carpet doesn't have to come out, just remove enough to get it out of the way. I used a spring clamp to hold the carpet to the shifter. See photo.

The floor is pretty thin, so drilling isn't that tough. I used a Unibit, as it only had to punch through 3/16" and then stepped to 1/4" then 5/16". Easier than drilling 5/16" from solid but either will work.

I positioned the front of the rail right at the seam in the front. The notched corner goes to the inside front. You don't want to be back too far, as the rear holes are very close to the radius of the tub and moving it back will make the rear holes fall in the radius. See pictures below. I used the floor jack to hold the rail up and then got the first hole drilled. Insert the bolt and just snug it. That will hold the rail in place. You can then remove the jack. Drill and bolt one of the holes on the opposite end. After that, I drilled all of the holes and bolted everything at one time. Just barely start to snug them up as you go. After all are in, go back and torque them down.

On the passenger side, remove the two clips that hold the fuel line. Bend the tabs like the photo below. Due to clearance, I didn't drill or install the inside rear bolt. I don't know if an NA is different, but the NB had a lot of tension on the fuel lines and I didn't want to risk them rubbing on that bolt and wearing through.

Any questions when you are installing, post them here.
Attached Thumbnails
Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-149.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-154.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-165.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-166.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-169.jpg  

Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-170.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-162.jpg   Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips-picture-158.jpg  
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:54 AM   #2
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nicely done. When I install mine in the spring this will come in handy.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:01 AM   #3
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Question: did you paint/coat the raw edge of the drilled holes, as FM suggests?
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlanta93LE View Post
Question: did you paint/coat the raw edge of the drilled holes, as FM suggests?
Good point. I didn't bother, as my car is a fair weather car. If you use your car for daily duty, you should place some form of sealant between the upper washer and the floor pan to seal the raw edge of the hole.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:55 AM   #5
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What happens when water, and dirt gets trapped between the cars frame rail and the "frame rail" you put on?
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:01 PM   #6
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On my car the FM rails fit TIGHT, leaving no room for anything to get trapped. Once everything is bolted up I doubt this will be any issue.
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:57 PM   #7
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This looks like there is a gap between the stock rail and the new modded rail. Good time to get some more insulating foam!!
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:06 PM   #8
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you could just drill one 1" hole towards each end and then every so often use a garden hose or an air compressos to flush it out once in a while.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:22 PM   #9
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Probably could run a bead of clear silicone caulk around the two ends if it concerned you. Dimensionally, the inside with and height is the same as the other versions on the market.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by posidon42 View Post
This looks like there is a gap between the stock rail and the new modded rail.
Damn, that's not good.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Damn, that's not good.
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:30 PM   #12
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Looks good to me, thanks a bunch stein.
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:58 PM   #13
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Awesome, thanks for the update.
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Old 12-18-2008, 03:25 PM   #14
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Cool, thanks Stein, I reckon between using anti-rust primer on the drilled holes + touching up any previously made scrapes on the stock rails with under sealant, there should be no problems. I'll prob run the hose down it when I wash the car too (like I do round the wheel arches).
Steve
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo11 View Post
Cool, thanks Stein, I reckon between using anti-rust primer on the drilled holes + touching up any previously made scrapes on the stock rails with under sealant, there should be no problems. I'll prob run the hose down it when I wash the car too (like I do round the wheel arches).
Steve
+1. I think those rails came out really good. I don't see much of an issue.

I plan to do exactly what Steve said too.

Many thanks Stein.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein View Post
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
Thanks man, great news.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein View Post
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
I have learned from experience that no matter how small a gap is, water will get into it. The FM rails would probably have less problems with trapping dirty and water because of how they are "lightened".

Just a heads up to people to consider some sort of water proofing. Maybe even drilling a whole bunch of holes straight down the channel to aid with drainage.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I have learned from experience that no matter how small a gap is, water will get into it. The FM rails would probably have less problems with trapping dirty and water because of how they are "lightened".

Just a heads up to people to consider some sort of water proofing. Maybe even drilling a whole bunch of holes straight down the channel to aid with drainage.
+1
Drill or cut holes everywhere...
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:09 PM   #19
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Got mine installed today. Only thing I might do different is move the rail forward ~1/4" or so. Had to leave the top washers off the back bolts because the bolts were right against the tub.

Except for spinning the car (first time ever), intial driving impresions are very positive. Car doesn't creak as much, bumps and dips don't upset the car as much. Car feels much more solid. Can/do the rails make the car more tail happy?

Thank you Stein.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail1.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail2.jpg
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
+1
Drill or cut holes everywhere...
I could have had that done for almost free (hardly any difference when they quoted both ways), but the concensus was that most people wanted them solid.
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