I installed my set today and everything went well. I have a couple of suggestions for dealing with the fuel lines for those who have not yet installed their rails.

1. I removed the rearmost fuel line clip and turned it over. I also left two of the lines out of the clip. They were under more tension and were only pullling the others against the bolts. The reversed clip should be positioned so that the clip is protecting the fuel line from the end of the mounting bolt. See pic.

2. The fuel/vapor lines should be slid down in the foremost clip (base of firewall) to give you a little less tension and more clearance at the leading edge of the rail. Then the front clip should be flipped and placed as to protect the lines from the foremost rail bolt. See other pic.

3. Do not line the rail up with the seam at the front or you will be in the radius at the back end (and it will look just fine from underneath until your drill punches through). Overlap by 1/2 to 3/4 inch at the front for best results. No pic, sorry.

4. Note that the clamp to hold the carpet out of the way will not be necessary. The front outside seat mounting hole in the carpet fits neatly over the stock shift lever. Non-stock levered cars should adjust fire as necessary. See pic.

5. If your stock frame rails are damaged you may require some leverage in adjusting them. My stock rails did not appear to have any need for adjustment until I attempted to slip the new rail over them. Adjusters pictured (see pic).

In retrospect, the kits are fantastic and well thought-out. They are thicker and stronger than the original rails and have made the last hour of road testing very enjoyable. Cowl shake is essentially zero. I can tell that the factory suspension components seem to actually absorbing movement instead of translating it into body flex as before.

Stein, good job. Thanks.

 

sixshooter, good tips.

On this next run, I'm going to move the rear holes forward about 1/2" to eliminate the rear mounting issue.

I'm also going to go to 1/4" shorter bolts.

 

I agree. I think I will eventually add something to connect them after I have them installed.

 

Good job Stein, the rails work great!

 

I bought FM's parts when they had a sale about 2 weeks before this buy happened. Where's sympathetic kitten when you need him... boo hoo....

Love to see buys like this happen. +1 for a brace that functions somewhat like the butterfly. Doesn't need to look anything like FM's piece though. We've all drooled over those JDM (cusco?) braces for NBs/ NCs that are out there now. If I had time and tools I'd have fabbed something up for myself by now. My car is only a couple hundred pounds heavier than stock. I need to add more ballast!

 

I am in Europe and thus metric. What does this mean? Length?

 

diameter.


Machine Screws Tapping Sizes / Clearance Hole Information

 

Thanks, #8 = 4mm and #10 = 4.8mm or 5mm.

 

Mine came yesterday and I installed them today, about 3 hours total. Had a noticeable improvement in perception of firmness in the chassis and suspension. Seems like the suspension works better now.
I like the idea of using 6 holes per side of the rail for bolts as opposed to 4. Everything went smoothly on the install. I had previously straightened the rails using two hand sledges so the fitting was very easy. No problem attaching to the double plate at the rear, hole placement was good. I did have to tap the holes for the fuel line bracket with a 10-32 tap to attach them. The self tappers did not tap, a small bump in the install for me.
I did not take install pics but here is one on the ground.
Great job Stein ! Thanks.

 

Still waiting on mine to show up, thanks for the install tips.

 

If they don't show by Tuesday, PM me and I will get the tracking number from the shipping dept.

 

Thanks Stein, will do

 

I'm an idiot - box has been sitting on my back deck since 2/17

Thanks Stein, they look great

 

interesting... i bet something like this would be pretty helpful on my escort.