Stop leaking cam plug 1999
#6
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Istanbul, Turkey
Posts: 3,214
Total Cats: 1,687
If you need to reuse the cap, clean and apply RTV 30 minutes before you put the VC together, and rotate it 90* before installing.
The cap may slip out of position if you don't give the RTV a chance to cure.
The cap may slip out of position if you don't give the RTV a chance to cure.
#7
Retired Mech Design Engr
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
I ordered a new plug. I don't remember how the VC interfaces. Would I be foolish to not pull VC to do this job? As in the VC gasket interfaces with the cap that holds the plug in place.
EDIT: Conversely, can I change it by only removing the back-up plate, and not touch the saddle bolts at all?
EDIT2: loosen the saddle bolts. Risk of breaking the RTV glob seals.
Any experience with probability of success if I do not R&R VC? @curly
EDIT: Conversely, can I change it by only removing the back-up plate, and not touch the saddle bolts at all?
EDIT2: loosen the saddle bolts. Risk of breaking the RTV glob seals.
Any experience with probability of success if I do not R&R VC? @curly
Last edited by DNMakinson; 07-25-2019 at 09:43 AM.
#8
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
You can do it without remove the valve cover, yeah. You're just likely to tear the sealing surface as you push it in, and you don't really have an easy way of applying force to install it. If you're tagging me cause I've done ~100 timing belt/water pump jobs at work, the NBs almost never have a leak there like the NA CAS 0-rings.
In a pinch I'd at least loosen those two m8 bolts, barely. If I have the time and I didn't do the valve cover gasket like, yesterday, I'd just remove the valve cover. I also take off the rear cap and front cam caps when sealing a valve cover, to get every last bit of RTV off. Although I haven't done a valve cover gasket only job in a while, the timing belt is usually off, I can't remember if it's advised to remove the front caps with the cam sprockets still on. I don't think it is.
In a pinch I'd at least loosen those two m8 bolts, barely. If I have the time and I didn't do the valve cover gasket like, yesterday, I'd just remove the valve cover. I also take off the rear cap and front cam caps when sealing a valve cover, to get every last bit of RTV off. Although I haven't done a valve cover gasket only job in a while, the timing belt is usually off, I can't remember if it's advised to remove the front caps with the cam sprockets still on. I don't think it is.
#9
Retired Mech Design Engr
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Thanks, Curly. Yes, that is why I tagged you. I'm quite certain that is where my leak is.
OK, I'm gonna do the job right and pull the VC. I have a new VC gasket, so I can change it, too, if the old one is not supple. Really, I don't know why I'm obsessing over a 1 hour job. Probably the $40+ for the VC gasket.
Thanks to all.
OK, I'm gonna do the job right and pull the VC. I have a new VC gasket, so I can change it, too, if the old one is not supple. Really, I don't know why I'm obsessing over a 1 hour job. Probably the $40+ for the VC gasket.
Thanks to all.
#11
Retired Mech Design Engr
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Now that I have VC off, and saddle cap off, I note that the cap to head is a metal-to-metal seal that could allow a path for oil. I plan to put a thin layer of RTV there, in addition to the globs at the corners.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
projectrally
Media
0
08-25-2015 06:48 AM