Is there a way to verify a hall sensor type?
I needed a hall sensor for my driveshaft speedo pickup for my Racepak. I went to my local auto parts store and bought a BWD "cam position sensor" off some buick that will fit size wise. It is a 3 wire sensor, and it is likely a hall sensor which is what I need. Is there any test I can do to verify it's type without a scope? Also, it does not have a pigtail only imbedded pins. So I need to figure out which wire is the 5vRef, which is the output and which is the ground.
Any help?
Any help?
Have you tried searching the part number on the internet to find out if it's a hall effect? I know the sensors on my buddy's northstar are coil style. They are more like an abs sensor that reads cut out notches in a wheel.
Here is what you need with a simple bracker I guess.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/h...sor-p-489.html
Here is what you need with a simple bracker I guess.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/h...sor-p-489.html
Yeah I'm aware of DIY's sensor, thing is I need it now not in a few days. I have to do emissions and if my speedo does not work I will fail. And I need to get my car on the road by wed.
If it is three wires then it probably is a hall effect, only problem is if it switches with a flying magnet or ferrous material and the pinout... post a picture.
Oh I just saw no pigtail... well a commonly used convention is ground on the left, then signal, then power... but it really could be anything.
Also, youll need a 1k ohm pull up between power and signal if the racepak does not have it.
Just swap the pins around and look for a signal on your multimeter, if connected right the signal output will show 5v normally and pull to ground when a tooth is in front of it. The sensors can usually survive being connected wrong while you experiment.
Oh I just saw no pigtail... well a commonly used convention is ground on the left, then signal, then power... but it really could be anything.
Also, youll need a 1k ohm pull up between power and signal if the racepak does not have it.
Just swap the pins around and look for a signal on your multimeter, if connected right the signal output will show 5v normally and pull to ground when a tooth is in front of it. The sensors can usually survive being connected wrong while you experiment.
Yeah I just played around with it on a spare battery and my multimeter. A few times I got the full 12V without even putting a magnet to it, but I couldn't get it to jump when it was reading like 0.05v without a magnet there.
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