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Old 10-09-2010, 01:54 AM
  #61  
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I've never heard of sleeving one of our engines either. Only seen that on aluminum engines, it's popular with the Honda crowd.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:40 AM
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All of our blocks are sleeved in the initial manufacture. Look closely at the deck or into the water jacket area from the water pump. These people are pretty good at it also:

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/

I would not trust a "straightened" rod either. Or, the person who recommends it.
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:00 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
All of our blocks are sleeved in the initial manufacture. Look closely at the deck
Huh.

You know, I think you're right. I'd never given it any thought, but I suppose it does make sense even on an iron engine that you'd want a steel liner.

This is what I get for growing up on ACVWs. Those jugs really are just bare iron. OTOH, they're also considered a consumable wear item.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:36 AM
  #64  
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I'll give Marc a call Monday or Tuesday and see what he thinks about straightening the rod. I don't know how comfortable I am with it either. But I think I will buy that Protege motor anyway. That way, I've got lots of spare parts and a cylinder head with no bent valves. And a spare block if anything happens to the sleeved block.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:45 AM
  #65  
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Straighten a rod. I think those rods are very strong but ****, would you really trust that? He is going to unbend it into trueness?

And sleeve the block??? Is he going to actually bore out your cast iron block? And then sleeve it? What the ******* ****. I barely know jackshit about engines but I know this is ridiculous.

Your machine shop pathetically sucks. It is a stinking pile of dog ****. One of the stereotypes of mechanics is that they are slack jawed 80 IQ neanderthals. That they are rude, scummy, and intimidating. In your case I think that steretype is true. You need to go to small claims court for the TOTAL price on your invoice and get some money back, then start over. You were fucked by this tard and now you are being taken. If you paid with credit card, protest this **** now.

Dude you can buy a naked miata block for like $60. And the bores will most likely be round. Just get a block, get a rod, get a piston, and pay $500 or so bucks to have a good shop put it together. Don't go back.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:48 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
All of our blocks are sleeved in the initial manufacture. Look closely at the deck or into the water jacket area from the water pump. These people are pretty good at it also:

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/

I would not trust a "straightened" rod either. Or, the person who recommends it.
Very interesting. I wouldn't trust his fuckup shop to execute that properly though.
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:47 AM
  #67  
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I have a 1.8 block (bare) you can have if you can figure out how to get it to TN
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:52 PM
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The shop really does good work. Despite a few **** ups, they really do. I've personally seen RB motors they've built pushing 900 hp, f20's over 500 so on and so forth. The guy has been doing this for 50 years. Despite this random screw up, he really does know what he's doing. Like I said, I kind of call bull **** on the straightening the rod thing. I don't doubt that it can be straightened into being true again, the problem I have is the internal stresses it can induce. Messing with the grain patterns, inducing internal stresses, local hardening, etc. etc. The sleeve I don't have a problem with at all. It's common practice on Honda block's, the only difference is aluminum vs. iron. They are still steel sleeved blocks from the factory.

Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
Dude you can buy a naked miata block for like $60. And the bores will most likely be round. Just get a block, get a rod, get a piston, and pay $500 or so bucks to have a good shop put it together. Don't go back.
If you have a lead on a $60 block, I'm all ears. I've also never seen a block over 60k that had round cylinders. They are always tapered or out of round. I can't seem to find one for less than $200 anyway. He's willing to do the machine work for free. I will probably do the assembly myself. I've got an engine stand and a torque wrench. The problem is, there aren't any other competent shops in the area, this is the shop to go to for anything more complicated than resurfacing a flywheel. A rod, piston and rings are $300. I can afford that. I can't afford a new block, new piston, new rod, new rings and pay someone else to assemble it. I may buy that junk yard motor, have this one sleeved and machined and put it all together later when I can afford the piston and rod.
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:00 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by y8s View Post
I have a 1.8 block (bare) you can have if you can figure out how to get it to TN
Is the Lars Delivery Service in need again? Knoxville is a little out of my way, but for the right price I do sell my time.
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:47 PM
  #70  
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I am not sure about rods, but I know that it is common practice to straighten crankshafts that were bent from engines coming apart. I believe it was Lunati that was featured in a magazine article about the procedure. This was quite a few years back. They straightened high dollar forged cranks, where the price of replacement was much higher than the repair.

The point I am trying to make, is that it may not be so unreasonable. I personally would prefer a new rod, especially if I was not the one that screwed it up. Perhaps call other machine shops to see if it is taboo to straighten out a connecting rod.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:40 PM
  #71  
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I'm gonna call Marc at M-tuned and see what he thinks about it. If he thinks it will be ok given the kind of damage this rod has seen, I'll probably go for it. Otherwise, I'll just buy a new one. y8s and shuiend have officially saved me on this deal though with a $60 block. I'm going to have that one machined like the broken one. With that block, I'll be able to afford the new piston, rod and rings. Everything should be good to go now.
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Old 10-10-2010, 12:43 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
I'm gonna call Marc at M-tuned and see what he thinks about it. If he thinks it will be ok given the kind of damage this rod has seen, I'll probably go for it. Otherwise, I'll just buy a new one. y8s and shuiend have officially saved me on this deal though with a $60 block. I'm going to have that one machined like the broken one. With that block, I'll be able to afford the new piston, rod and rings. Everything should be good to go now.
It is absolutely no problem to go out of my way to help a fellow miata owner out. I know what it is like to have a built motor not work right the first time it is put together and will gladly help out those in need.
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:52 AM
  #73  
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I would just bite the bullet on the new rod and get the machine shop to split the cost since they wont have to do any labor on it.

They may be a great shop, but it seems questionable that they can get the rod back to exactly the same condition it was pre-installation. There's just too much metallurgy involved in my opinion.
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:47 AM
  #74  
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I probably will just buy the new rod. I know that at the very least it will have to have a new bushing anyway. The pin is frozen inside the rod, and who knows what kind of internal stresses are on that end now.
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:53 PM
  #75  
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Baron, there is your new block sitting in my passengers seat.
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:31 PM
  #76  
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free oil cooler and water pump!
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Old 10-10-2010, 04:02 PM
  #77  
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You are a fantastic human being.
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:40 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
I probably will just buy the new rod. I know that at the very least it will have to have a new bushing anyway. The pin is frozen inside the rod, and who knows what kind of internal stresses are on that end now.
That would be a very smart move. The fact he's willing to do the machine and assembly on his dime this time is enough to speak highly for the shop. We all make mistakes, but its how we enact on those mistakes is determines who is a man.............. and who's just a.... Well, you get the idea
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:28 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6 View Post
That would be a very smart move. The fact he's willing to do the machine and assembly on his dime this time is enough to speak highly for the shop. We all make mistakes, but its how we enact on those mistakes is determines who is a man.............. and who's just a.... Well, you get the idea
That's the whole reason I'm ok with this outcome. In the end, sometimes **** just happens. It is probably his fault originally, but it could have been a piston failure, no way to say for certain. He's willing to make it right and at least meet me half way, which is good enough for me. There is something to be said for just treating people right. It seams too few businesses are willing to that these days, and as long as he continues to do that, I don't want to go to court or try to screw him either.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:55 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
You are a fantastic human being.
and too lazy to strip the block bare?
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