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Guess I’m going to re pin the fuel pump relay and keep it stock- that should send power to the red/blue which should close the circuit sending power to the pump like oem.
I have the relay from trackspeed. That’s pre wired. My BIL is an electrician and he said the relay is correct.
I’m on the road m-f but will be chasing the wires down tomorrow. If what I’m thinking is correct, the oem wiring does whatever it needs to do, and sends power to the pump via the thicker blue/red wire. Therefore, I will hook it back up per oem. So whatever happens upstream of the relay should send power to the red/blue that goes to the new relay as the trigger wire (which was power to the pump). Then it acts oem (because it essentially is) and uses the new setup to supply power. If I’m right which....probably end up in a ball of fire.
but why on earth then would I cut stuff from oem if it’s that simple?
Im not a professional and i'm sure there are better ways to do it but i'll give you my reasoning. There are many smarter people here that can correct me or add input.
The benefit of cutting and bridging red/white and red/blue is that you can bypass the crappy oem fuel pump relay relay. I don't know a TSE relay kit as I custom did one so I can't tell you how they have their wired.
If the red/blue wire provides a 12v powered source, then the relay will be wired using the bottom diagram.
85 to red/blue (12v trigger)
30 to battery
86 to ground
87 to fuel pump (providing power to fuel pump).
If you believe the above fits your situation, then you can test the relay wiring by sending 12v directly to pin 85 to see if your fuel pump turns on.
If the red/blue wire provides a ground trigger, then the wiring would fit the top picture.
Bridge 85+30 to battery
87 to fuel pump (providing power to fuel pump)
86 to red/blue (ground trigger)
If you can take a picture of the wiring going into the TSE relay with the numbers visible, I could help a bit easier.
I had the red blue and white red butt connected. Powered car on, key on. Jumped the fuel pump and ground at diagnostic port and got nothing at the red blue at the relay (old fuel pump power) 🤷♂️
if the current draw on the existing system is greatly reduced that should work too......?
Okay, so it looks like red/white provides a ground trigger to activate the fuel pump. You won't detect power in this wiring because there isn't any power going through it. You can test to make sure your wiring is correct by grounding pin 86 on the relay to see if your fuel pump turns on.
I got the same kit, it's a different version that relies on the existing fuel pump relay to power the trigger. I don't know why they changed it to not work the same way the factory relay does with the triggered ground, hopefully I can dig up the reasoning somewhere. Here's a link to the V2 instructions:
I wired it up like the oem system is and she works great.
fwiw I got a relay socket kit at autozone. Depinned that plug and buy connected oem to new terminal end. Pushed the brass barb flush and snapped back into oem connector flawlessly.
Originally Posted by Siliconmatrix
I got the same kit, it's a different version that relies on the existing fuel pump relay to power the trigger. I don't know why they changed it to not work the same way the factory relay does with the triggered ground, hopefully I can dig up the reasoning somewhere. Here's a link to the V2 instructions:
Just wanted to hit this with an update. Car has been together and apart but maybe 1500 miles. Car wouldn’t start last week and traced power to the plug, but the factory plug was slightly heated and cause the power pin to not make contact with the plug on the pump. Melted the release tab.
getting a new plug but wanted to update I’m surprised this happened with this little use
Track speed fuel pump rewire kit troubles
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