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Old 05-08-2007, 11:29 PM   #1
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Default Trouble removing halfshafts from diff

I've been wanting to check the 1.8 rearend I bought to determine whether it is a Torsen, but I wasn't able to remove the halfshafts from the diff. I'm embarrassed to ask, but what's the trick to removing them?
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:31 PM   #2
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prybar works. or hammer from behind.
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:33 PM   #3
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Hmmm. Damn near busted my finger in half when the prybar slipped. I'll try the hammer tomorrow.
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:51 PM   #4
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Chain one end to big oak tree. Chain other to truck. Go for a drive.
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:58 PM   #5
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I could just let your shop dog have a go...but then it'd be split into many more pieces than 3.
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:13 AM   #6
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I would NOT recommend pissing off the rottie.

I should have shown you the cave she dug in the back yard.
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:35 AM   #7
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Is it the early style 1.8 (94-95) where they use stub axles, or are the halfshafts themselves stuck in the differential?
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:45 PM   #8
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'94.
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:21 AM   #9
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Bah. I took the longer part of the halfshafts out, but the stubshafts don't seem to want to budge. Not very much room to swing a hammer and make contact.
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlanta93LE View Post
Bah. I took the longer part of the halfshafts out, but the stubshafts don't seem to want to budge.
Since you've got the flanged version to work with, you're in luck. Here's a trick.

Using a hammer, drive out two of the threaded studs from each stub shaft, 180 degrees apart. Don't worry, they come out easily.

Now, locate two long bolts that will slip through the holes you just created in one of the stub shafts, and get two nuts to fit on them. I think the bolts can be 3/8 or 5/16 dia, and at least 3" long.

Put one bolt through each hole, and thread the nut onto it. You want the nut in the space between the flange and the body of the diff. Keep turning until the end of the bolt contacts the body of the diff and the nut is pressing against the inside of the flange on the stub shaft.

You have just created a puller. Using a bench vise and a friend (or two friends if you have no vise) turn the nut while holding the bolt stationary. Turn the first one a few turns, then the other, then back to the first, etc. it may take you a couple tries to find a position in the stub shaft's rotation where both bolt tips find a solid purchase against the body of the diff, but it'll happen.
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:07 AM   #11
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just remember...if they are that hard to pull out, they are that hard to put back
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:37 AM   #12
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That's a great idea Joe. Scott, you're thinking exactly what I've been thinking. Really, I just want to find out if this is a Torsen or not. Whatever. I need to focus on getting the turbo going before worrying about the diff. Now that the halfshafts are off the stubshafts though, it's easier to store
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlanta93LE View Post
That's a great idea Joe. ... Really, I just want to find out if this is a Torsen or not.
(bow)

Seriously though. If you know what you're looking for (and the diff is out of the car) you can peek through the fill hole while shining a small flashlight into the drain hole. This should give you a sufficient perspective to see whether it has worm gears or spider gears.
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:01 PM   #14
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It's a Torsen!
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:16 PM   #15
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badass! have fun digging into those corners.
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Old 05-12-2007, 04:17 AM   #16
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It may be a little late but you can also call mazda with your VIN and find out 800-222-5500. I juat called today and found out I have an open...Damn!
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:56 AM   #17
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Tim, I would have done that first had I ever had the VIN from the car it came from
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