I keep having the same problem over and over again. I can't seem to make my engine stop leaking oil. About two months ago I replaced the front main seal, and the camshafts seals. However, it appears that the unmodified PCV system was causing the crankcase to pressurize, causing the seals to fail. I band-aid that by blocking the IM port and venting the passenger side of the valve cover.

I've had this same leak on both of the engines I have used. The only thing in common both these engines had was the replacement of the head gasket, and the unmodified PCV system.

I will replace the crank and camshafts seals tomorrow... again. I've read about using black rtv to improve the seals' performance. I was thinking on trying this out and see. However, I feel there's is something else going on. Could it be the head gasket?

I took the car on a round trip from Miami to Orlando. On the return trip my alternator belt ripped due to excess oil that leaked. I have to move this Saturday to Orlando to start classes. This is why I must figure this out ASAP. Thanks

 

Put vacuum on the breather. The crankcase like to have vacuum on it.

 

Isn't that what the PCV is for?

 

Condition of valve seals and piston rings?

 

Both unknown in this engine. In the previous one the head had new valve seals and it only leaked once the turbo was running.

I don't have that bluish/heavy smoke out the tail pipe at start up, just the occasional black smoke that follows load runs. From the information I've collected this is due to faulty crank ventilation systems.

 

Option A: Route both breather ports to a catch can.

Option B: Route both breather ports to an exhaust vacuum

Not an option: Use the PCV valve knowing that when your crankcase needs ventilation the most, your PCV valve will - best case: be closed - worst case: provide boost to your crankcase.

 

Wouldn't option A equate to vent the port to atmosphere?

Exhaust vacuum? as in, tapping the exhaust plumbing for a hose barb?

I also ran into people that have used a Turbo Supra PCV valve, option C?

 

Just make a catchcan and run both lines to it.

 

Yes, Option A would equate to venting the port to atmosphere - after dumping all the liquid mist crap into the catch can.

For exhaust vacuum - search "slash cut"

Turbo Supra PCV valve is not an option C - if you're really super dead set on burning your crankcase fumes in your combustion cycle, then you need to vent both of them to your intake tract pre-turbo. I have no idea what several months worth of fine oily mist will do to your compressor, intercooler, or various intake air sensors, but even a NASA developed PCV can deliver - at best - zero ventilation when you need ventilation the most.

 

I've been trying to dodge that bullet, but I guess I can't. Venting to atmo will do for now since I have to order the can and I'm in the middle of moving.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

What about the black RTV to help the seals to not leak?

 

Run both lines to a catch can and put vacuum on the catchcan pre turbo (or use exhaust as venturi effect). Keep the catchcan as far away from heat as possible to help condense oil vapors. Some even put steelwool in catchcans to help with scrubbing vapros.

Furthermore, black smoke is fuel smoke.

 

Assuming this would work as you expect it to, you would not be solving the problem, you would only be hiding a symptom...so you would be sort of like a socialist government for your engine.

 

Okay, will do.

oh lawd

Like I said I wanted to avoid the catchcan due to money issues. I see now that I can't escape it. I will do the can and the vacuum pre-turbo. However, I don't have the access to the part needed for this immediately. I will have to order them online and wait for delivery. As I mentioned I need to at least be able to drive the car 260 miles again this weekend when I move. Once there I will work on getting the catch can set.

As of right now the best I can do is vent both ports to atmo and replace the seals.

 

I built a very legitimate catch-can for under 20 bucks including all materials and under 2 hours of my time. You can do it!. JB weld+metal container+3 brass barbs and a filter.

 

Yah you can route the breather to your intake. That works. But. Oil in your combustion chamber causes detonation. Note that this is only really a problem when you approach 300hp. If you are stock or lower HP just do this.


For option A, catch can NEEDS TO BE VTA.

Option B. If you are boosted take off PCV valve or drill it out and make it VTA. I do not recommend exhaust vacuum.

IF CATCHCAN IS VTA.


Several months of oily mist will not break ouyr sensors, compressor, or IC. But as I said, oil will cause detonation at higher boost.

I DO NOT recommend slash cut for anything other than a track car. It sucks to have oil get into your exhaust, and then for your exhaust to annoyingly pour out oil smoke while you're cruising down the highway. It smells. You look stupid. It sucks. Yes it works under boost, but you can just VTA your crankcase and it will still work without the horrible smoke BS.

I am an expert in this crap because I need crankcase vent more than anyone else on this forum.

Buffon. Do this.

Stick a little filter on the drivers side vent.

Drill out PCV valve. With a drill. Stick a little filter on the PCV valve.

And *** that damn girl you had the 1 night stand wih again.

 

Regarding RTV. If your shiz is pressurized, sealing it up won't help. Why? Because the gas will come out elsewhere. Most likely through a seal. Since the current vent is broekd. Also RTV doesn't exactly stick firmly to metal. It is just a gasket maker

 

I vote to reban.

-failing to simply edit you post insted of making multiple posts
-Completely missing what I said...even when you quoted it.

 

This is what you need:

 

A 3 cylinder?

 

Picture was more about the catch can, but yes... he needs a 3 cylinder. Two of them, actually!