1-4:
60, 60, 120, 120

I'm guessing the compression gauge is not sealing properly (rubber hose) becuase the car drives the same way it did when it was new. There is no smoke, no blow-by, and it sounds fine. It idles fine, cold starts and warms up fine, and drives fine. Should I be worried? I'm getting a different compression tester tomorrow and getting a working leak-down gauge tomorrow, but I can't sleep with this kind of drama no matter how much I drink.

 

Do you need me to rock you to sleep? I told you on the phone today that your compression tester was ****. Cars with 60-60-120-120 compression don't roll tire in 3rd gear on 80*F days.

 

on concrete.

 

go to sleep hoe.
just rub one out and get a new tester tomorrow.
sav is right: with 60 in 2 cylinders your car would run like a tractor

 

If you've got a regulated air compressor you can use your comp tester as a leak down.

 

So would you guys pull the head off and have a look or just leave it?

 

leave it and wait for your new compression tester =)

 

Next time we meet, remind me to kick you in the nuts as punishment for this thread.

 

Why would it be consistently wrong? I'm thinking 1/8 turn int he tester fitting either way would make some variation in compression.

Also, do you guys think 243whp at 11psi on 8.6:1 compression is low? I sure do. I'm guessing this motor was blown up a long time ago. I'm really worried about getting in there and seeing a ton of detonation and a dead motor. I guess I'm going to plan on not running TT next year, time to buy a kart.

Edit:
The plugs all look exactly the same too.

 

Borrow a friends compression tester and see if theres a change. If its really bothering you do a leakdown test. If you really had 60 psi compression I think you would have noticed.

 

I'm guessing the head gasket is leaking between cylinders. Basically both of my cars are broken now and I'm fucked.

 

i wanna falcon punch you right about now! your cars are broken but they run great. you make alot of sense. I'm this - close to unfriending you for sounding like a clueless chick. you know your in the lead of unlimited class right?

btw - my car made 230whp at 11psi so no, that doesn't sound low

 

I had a BP that gave me low compression numbers but ran great (85,80,120,80) and by great I mean drove 1200 miles with 3 people and a motor in the hatch. turns out after tearing down the motor the head was cracked in 2 places.

BP's are built like tanks for the most part, they dont die till you ventilate the block.

 

**** it, I'm drinking today and I'll worry about this after TXMC. Time to smoke heroin.

 

i guess anythings possible, but it's hard for me to believe that he could have a head that's cracked to pieces, but still runs enough boost (not 11psi, has to be more like 15psi) to roast 3rd gear, and there is no trace evidence on the plugs or even in the way the car idles, or revs. and drives smooth as always. no discernible difference from fresh build? that would be pretty amazing.

 

YES! heron.... your not darth vader, don't let the fear consume you.... lol

 

Ok, so got a new gauge from HF and new leak tester and things are not good
Compression
60, 90, 120, 120

Leak
60, 60, 40, 10
I can hear air through the exhaust on every one. I've never really over-revved the car so I'm guessing some exhaust valves are burnt. However what really gets me is that the car drives totally fine, and still goes fast as ****. I guess I'm going to run TXMC then take the head off and have a look. If the valves are burnt we're switching to Inco exhaust valves with Berrylium seats. This is weird. Just to be sure I was at TDC I rotated the engine from -5* to +5* to make sure the exhaust valves were closed and never saw a real change in the leak gauge. I'm guessing it's not the tester hose since I always heard air through the exhaust.

 

Are you doing the test correctly on a fully charged battery? Five to six cranks wot on each cylinder should do it.

With the leakdown, make sure all valves are closed and only run like 30-40 psi at first.

With those numbers, the engine would barely stay running, you should be up in the 180's at least.

 

Many cranks, strong battery.

Savington to reminded me of valve lash. I had to adjust it a few years ago, maybe I went a tick too far.

 

If you had your valves that tight for that long, chances are you have erosion on the tight valves. If you are sure you did the test right, I would strongly consider pulling the head. The longer you wait, the more damage that will be done.