Ok so all my studs are screwed-up, turbo flange is warped, and I discovered that my manifold is warped. Is this normal for a track car? AFR is 11.5:1 in boost, spark map has crazy advance...so am I possibly overheating this guy? I'm sending the manifold to BEGi to get all the work done and I'm adding an EGT because apparently I need to. Any thoughts on this?

Its easy to look at the gasket and notice that things are not good:

 

Do you have any way to measure fuel delivery to each cylinder? I'd be worried you're running lean in one and creating a hot spot...

(Unless of course your faulty studs are creating a leak of some sort.)

- L

 

I don't have any way to do that, but I put cleaned injectors in them. Also, look how black that **** is...its definitely not lean. I guess i could put EGT on each cylinder with a bunch of $22 bungs, but that's going to get expensive.

Maybe Corky will chime in. Right now I'm thinking they will recommend surfacing (duh) and cutting bigger reliefs. I don't see how I'm hitting too-high EGT's if AFR is where's its supposed to be. As for spark, I have no less than 22* at the 15psi at 7k rpm...all of my settings are reasonable.

Studs are fine in the head.

 

Now that the bugger has warped. Deck the flange and reinstall.

 

is this typical? will it happen again? Do I have a problem?

Thanks

 

it looks like #1 and #4 never sealed....

 

Are you sure it wasn't warped when you got it?

 

once it's been heat cycled, it shouldn't re-warp. splitime's suggestion is solid.

also did you check the flange nuts or retighten them? were they loose at all?

 

I dunno if this helps, but my greddy manifold is a bitch to get on and off now, I'm fairly certain it's warped. I tend to run on the hot side at the track as well, so I wouldn't be surprised if that's what caused it.

 

it did, considering that it spooled 500rpm later after the track running.

nah, the bolts were tight. Splittime's suggestion makes sense...before I get the checkbook out. By checkbook, I mean "check card."

 

So is heat cycling then having to resurface the flange again common practice? Or is this an exception since it was ran hard?

 

Its one of those unknown unknowns I think.

 

+ new relief cuts.

Chris

 

my ETD manifold pulled the flange all over the place. I never re-decked it but I did do relief cuts and re-mounted it and it's been pretty solid and not leaky since. But there is only one track event on it...

 

this manifold had relief cuts...now they're touching. Look at the shape of the stud-holes. lol

 

Yup that's what mine did. I have all the suggested relief cuts on my greddy manifold, which is a lot more than yours by the looks of it. They're all touching now. We're kind of asking for it by separating the flange into multiple pieces.

 

my first manifold warped so bad i had to cut it off the head....

 

That sucks. Not seen it before. This is new:


Did you use a new gasket or reuse the old one? Was it clean as new when reused? It may be that the warping came after a small exhaust leak, that heated the outside too much and caused it loosening more and warping more.

Get a new exhaust gasket for sure, and retighten several times after heat cycling. And use your Rebond...

 

I used a new gasket, so I guess I'll buy another. I'm not using the threadlocker there.

 

i was waiting for this to happen! too much ignition advance = more heat = warped ****.