ok so i own a 92 miata with the stock 1.6 in it and my water pump was replaced at 100,000 thousand miles like it was supposed to be and i have recently rolled the odometer over 140,000 and it is already going out again.

real question is would this be because of running it hard and wearing the bearing out or from a cheaply made water pump or both?

any input is helpful unless its completely off subject and gay!!!!

and also wondering if there is an electric water pump out there somewhere that could be put on in place of the OE pump so i could reduce the load on the engine to free up a couple of ponies

 

I think the electric water pump is a horrible idea, and you'd be way better off going turbo charged to get more power.

Is your current pump just leaking? Perhaps the gaskets were installed dry (if paper gaskets), or no silicone put on the metal one. Maybe it's just a bad part. I personally think 40,000 miles is totally acceptable. It's also not that hard of a job, just a bit time consuming.

If you want to be ultra safe, get a OEM water pump an gaskets.

 

Most likely because it was cheap or the gasket didnt seal properly. When replacing any major part on the motor do not cheap out.

 

Replace it with an OEM part this time.

 

Thanks for the help guys just ordered a new Berk-Arnley water pump with gasket that is a direct OE fit

 

If I remember right alot of the "kits" come with paper gaskets and the oem gaskets are rubber. You could always go to a dealer and order oem gaskets to get the best seal for like $10-15.

 

oem gasket is paper on nb1. You must put a silicon bead on both sides to get proper seal.

 

I run Bosch waterpumps from CarPart.com - Quality Automotive Parts at Wholesale Prices and they've lasted on the track for a long time.

 

Hell, the parts we get from our supplier is the OEM pump and can get it cheaper than dealers can...lol.


Its good ****. Use it.

 

It is not a horrible idea. I built one, and I love it.

 

how did you build your electric water pump?

did it free any ponies up? does it really help much in the fact of cooling?
and did you have to upgrade your alternater to supply enough charge to run everything and your electric water pump?

 

The water pump consumes much less energy than the alternator and power steering pump.

 

An electric water pump is compounding inefficiencies.

Alternators are about 90% efficient, which isn't bad for the load they are required to handle. Pumps have their own inefficiencies, and when driven indirectly (electrically), the overall efficiency of the system is the pump efficiency percentage of the 90% alternator efficiency since it now assumes this load.

In other words it takes more HP to drive an electric water pump.

 

Electric water pumps are a lot more efficient than mechanical ones (at high RPM) because they're optimized to run in a narrow RPM range.

The NPW aftermarket water pumps according to a local Mazda specialist (PR) said had the best record of reliability (better than OE).

And, it has curved cast blades rather than stamped straight:

 

I have found that my system made power. It runs very cool on the street, and adds a good look to the engine bay. I have posted a thread and pics of the system. Do a search.

It is not exactly cheap to build for the little power you get. I purchased a universal remote pump from CSI, gutted the stock pump, and welded fittings to the stock components to run stainless hose. I also reversed the flow direction to cool the cylinder head first. I would think that reversing flow would help you high boost guys out there, and did it because I have a high compression motor that I am adding nitrous to. I have discovered a few glitches, and will have to reroute some of the plumbing to make it truly race worthy.

 

Nice!

Have you found more resistance to detonation?

Do you have a flow/pressure graph of the CSI pump?

Also, the reduced pressure head of electric vs. standard pumps may reduce the coolant boiling point and promote spot boiling in the head. Evans coolant may work better for this application.

Lots of discussion here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35609/

 

I see and agree with your point.

 

so on a college kid budget build the electric water pump route wouldnt be the best of ideas due to the cost of the part

 

I have no power adders yet, so detonation is not an obvious occurance for me. I need track or dyno time.

The CSI is a universal unit which can be used on anything up to big blocks. Volume is controled by the thermostat or a restrictor if you are not running a thermostat. Without the restriction, it is like Niagra Falls. That is all I know about it. I have seen other small displacement motors with the same pump at drag racing events.

 

Do V8 pukes use these electric pumps for track days or just for dragstrip passes?

Adding a restrictor to an electric water pump is the wrong thing to do. (Pls. don't bring up the old wives' tale about "flow too fast not enough time in the radiator" )

The right thing to do is to vary its voltage with coolant temp.
See linked thread.