What all should I do while my engine is out?
1 Attachment(s)
I picked up a blown up 99 in otherwise nice condition for $700 the other day. This is like my 5th or 6th Miata so I’m generally pretty well versed, but hopefully you guys can tell me if I missed anything. The plan is to get it running again, then mega squirt, then some boost.
I’m picking up a junkyard 99 motor, I got the Supermiata coolant bypass so I can do that annoying shit with the motor out. I bought new heater hoses, I picked up an FM stage one happy meal, I’m doing rear main while the motor is out, obviously. I’m also doing a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner on the “new” motor as a matter of course. Anything I’m missing that is going to make me cuss a lot when I realize I should have done it with the motor out? Here’s the car, pre surgery: Attachment 228049 |
I might consider the oil pan seals depending on how high the mileage is. It would be annoying to start the motor and have it leak there.
|
Originally Posted by Holdor
(Post 1543682)
I might consider the oil pan seals depending on how high the mileage is. It would be annoying to start the motor and have it leak there.
|
I wouldn't touch the oil pan seals as they are not a seal that sees any wear. It's more common to see a botched installation of them cause a leak than for them to start leaking on their own.
I'd do front and rear main seals and the camshaft seals while doing the timing belt and water pump. |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1543684)
I wouldn't touch the oil pan seals as they are not a seal that sees any wear. It's more common to see a botched installation of them cause a leak than for them to start leaking on their own.
I'd do front and rear main seals and the camshaft seals while doing the timing belt and water pump. |
If you’re planning on a turbo, remove the pan and add your choice of oil drain. Have someone experienced reseal the pan, it is indeed difficult and easy to mess something up.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1543692)
If you’re planning on a turbo, remove the pan and add your choice of oil drain. Have someone experienced reseal the pan, it is indeed difficult and easy to mess something up.
Anyone have a link to a template or something for the oil drain? It’s gonna be kinda hard to judge without the engine in the car. |
Originally Posted by Mikel
(Post 1543694)
Shit, I thought about this when I first bought the car a couple of weeks ago, but totally forgot about it. How bad is the oil pan gasket? I worked as a mechanic for years and I’ve done tons of oil pans but I’ve never done a Miata oil pan.
Anyone have a link to a template or something for the oil drain? It’s gonna be kinda hard to judge without the engine in the car. |
I recommend replacing all the coolant lines that go from the rear of head -> oil filter area -> throttle body -> thermostat housing -> mixing manifold.
It's easy while the car is out. |
I would pull the pan and drill/tap it for the return, then reseal it correctly, front rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gasket, timing belt/wp. I'd also clean the motor and subframe really well while it's out and apart. If the budget allows, throwing some rods in the bottom end would awesome so you can run more boost when it's time for boost.
|
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1543711)
Do some searching there's an excellent thread somewhere. The spot to put it when the engine is out is different than where you want it when the engine is installed.
Originally Posted by skylinecalvin
(Post 1543712)
I recommend replacing all the coolant lines that go from the rear of head -> oil filter area -> throttle body -> thermostat housing -> mixing manifold.
It's easy while the car is out.
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1543713)
I would pull the pan and drill/tap it for the return, then reseal it correctly, front rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gasket, timing belt/wp. I'd also clean the motor and subframe really well while it's out and apart. If the budget allows, throwing some rods in the bottom end would awesome so you can run more boost when it's time for boost.
|
Lot already said but:
Turbo oil drain. The annoying little coolant hoses Coolant reroute EGR delete (easier to do without the firewall there) Crank seal Rear main seal Cam seals timing belt/water pump The rest of the gaskets, just judge based on looks. If it looks like it's been weeping, replace it. |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1543711)
Do some searching there's an excellent thread somewhere. The spot to put it when the engine is out is different than where you want it when the engine is installed.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...48/#post972117 because that looks like the best option to me. |
Originally Posted by hks_kansei
(Post 1543722)
Lot already said but:
Turbo oil drain. The annoying little coolant hoses Coolant reroute EGR delete (easier to do without the firewall there) Crank seal Rear main seal Cam seals timing belt/water pump The rest of the gaskets, just judge based on looks. If it looks like it's been weeping, replace it. |
Originally Posted by Mikel
(Post 1543724)
im guessing this is what you’re referring to:
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...48/#post972117 because that looks like the best option to me. |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1543727)
Yup that's where I put mine
|
Coolant reroute
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1543947)
Coolant reroute
|
6 Attachment(s)
Motor came out saturday:
Attachment 228043 Attachment 228044 Intake was full of oil. I need to add PCV valve to my list, but I think it was a piston ring more than anything, since number 3 seems fubar. Attachment 228045 Attachment 228046 Attachment 228047 Now I'm just waiting on one of two possible sources to come through with an engine to put on this stand Attachment 228048 |
MazdaComp motor mounts, plug and/or weld cursed water plug. If you doing a reroute, just remove the front water neck entirely and use a blockoff plate. More room for future activities.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:44 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands