Mikel

I picked up a blown up 99 in otherwise nice condition for $700 the other day. This is like my 5th or 6th Miata so I’m generally pretty well versed, but hopefully you guys can tell me if I missed anything. The plan is to get it running again, then mega squirt, then some boost.

I’m picking up a junkyard 99 motor, I got the Supermiata coolant bypass so I can do that annoying **** with the motor out. I bought new heater hoses, I picked up an FM stage one happy meal, I’m doing rear main while the motor is out, obviously. I’m also doing a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner on the “new” motor as a matter of course.

Anything I’m missing that is going to make me cuss a lot when I realize I should have done it with the motor out?

Here’s the car, pre surgery:

Holdor

I might consider the oil pan seals depending on how high the mileage is. It would be annoying to start the motor and have it leak there.

Mikel

Good point, might as well do that with the motor on a stand.

SpartanSV

I wouldn't touch the oil pan seals as they are not a seal that sees any wear. It's more common to see a botched installation of them cause a leak than for them to start leaking on their own.

I'd do front and rear main seals and the camshaft seals while doing the timing belt and water pump.

Mikel

that’s also a good point, maybe I will just check for leaks. I’ve already ordered a rear main, front main is a good idea too. I think the valve cover set I ordered came with cam seals, if not I’ll order those too.

curly

iTrader: (25)

If you’re planning on a turbo, remove the pan and add your choice of oil drain. Have someone experienced reseal the pan, it is indeed difficult and easy to mess something up.

Mikel

****, I thought about this when I first bought the car a couple of weeks ago, but totally forgot about it. How bad is the oil pan gasket? I worked as a mechanic for years and I’ve done tons of oil pans but I’ve never done a Miata oil pan.

Anyone have a link to a template or something for the oil drain? It’s gonna be kinda hard to judge without the engine in the car.

SpartanSV

Do some searching there's an excellent thread somewhere. The spot to put it when the engine is out is different than where you want it when the engine is installed.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

I recommend replacing all the coolant lines that go from the rear of head -> oil filter area -> throttle body -> thermostat housing -> mixing manifold.

It's easy while the car is out.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I would pull the pan and drill/tap it for the return, then reseal it correctly, front rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gasket, timing belt/wp. I'd also clean the motor and subframe really well while it's out and apart. If the budget allows, throwing some rods in the bottom end would awesome so you can run more boost when it's time for boost.

Mikel

I’ll check into all of these things, thanks.

hks_kansei

Lot already said but:

Turbo oil drain.
The annoying little coolant hoses
Coolant reroute
EGR delete (easier to do without the firewall there)
Crank seal
Rear main seal
Cam seals
timing belt/water pump

The rest of the gaskets, just judge based on looks. If it looks like it's been weeping, replace it.

Mikel

im guessing this is what you’re referring to:

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...48/#post972117

because that looks like the best option to me.

Mikel

Yeah, I forgot to mention egr, I’ve already got the delete parts

SpartanSV

Yup that's where I put mine

Mikel

awesome, need to go buy a drill bit and tap now.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Coolant reroute

Mikel

I have the Supermiata one sitting in my office right now waiting on the new engine. After fighting with the coil pack connectors back there I realized I had no desire to do the reroute with the engine in the car.

Mikel

Motor came out saturday:





Intake was full of oil. I need to add PCV valve to my list, but I think it was a piston ring more than anything, since number 3 seems fubar.







Now I'm just waiting on one of two possible sources to come through with an engine to put on this stand

Schroedinger

MazdaComp motor mounts, plug and/or weld cursed water plug. If you doing a reroute, just remove the front water neck entirely and use a blockoff plate. More room for future activities.