Obviously talking stock here. Looking to buy my first, but not sure what to get. Obviously the early 90's are cheaper, but would it be best to try and get a 99 -2000 for the head, etc? Or just worry about 95 after with the 1.8 and torsen diff?



Thanks

 

94. Possibility of a torsen, 1.8l engine, OBD1. You can always buy a 99 head later.

 

Why is OBD1 a good thing? (or before they didn't even have OBD1?)


How about this as a starter car?

http://tucson.craigslist.org/ctd/1704681165.html

 

OBD1 so you dont have to fk around with OBD2 (plug-in) emissions tests. with OBD1 you can pass with an aftermarket EMS, since it's just a tailpipe test. my escort passes no problem.

 

I'd love a 99 sport.

 

Don't forget 1995, those are OBDI as well.

 

We need a lot more information to be able to answer this question.

What do you intend to do with the car as far as modifications?
What is it gonig to be used for on a daily basis?
Will it be your only car?
What value do you place on comfort?
What is your budget?
Does it have to be stock?
How modified can it be?
What are your mechanical skills?

For $10k, you can get a really clean, low mileage '04, or a hi-mileage MSM, or a fully built 90's turbo, or a early 0-'s mildly modified, or a trashed any year and dump a bunch of money into it.

What year is the best for a guy who wants to be comfortable in the rain over long distances every day is not the best for a guy who wants 300whp during the summer and occasional trackdays.

Answer the questions I ask above for some quality answers.

From a stock performance standpoint, it's a tossup between an '94-R and a '99 Sport. As far as that one you linked... I think they call that color "merlot", and only the biggest homo wine&cheesers drive those. He also doesn't mention a price... any douche selling a car on CL that doesn't list a price has something to hide and is obviously a small slime dealership or maybe even a auction-type dude selling them out of his driveway. In any case, he wants you to call so he can run his slick salesman pitch to you and tell you how rare that color is and why he wants $2k more than all the other Miatas on CL.

 

and OBD 1.5 and OBD II ....

 

1998.....it's full of win.

 

Thats like the square root of a negative number in the miata world....... its imaginary

 

They do exsist... In places far, far away.

 

+1

 

I love my 1998, but 1994 is the absolute best year in terms of compromising and getting what you need.

The all-out best combonation is my car...the 1991 chassis is the lightest, it has a 99 torsen (1-piece axles), NA1.8 torsen pumpkin, and a 99 motor.

 

Not true. Learn your facts fool.

 

Yeah, well, not that many were like that.

Unless you live in Europe where they have 1998 Miatas.

 

Mine happens to be a 1.5. As far as I know an easy way to tell the difference is: OBD I and 1.5 have coils with 4 wires, OBD II have 3 wires

Im curious to see how the Europe 1998 look like

 

What do you intend to do with the car as far as modifications? Turbo evetually, suspension. This will be a DD beater/ track car for Auto-X, track eventsWhat is it gonig to be used for on a daily basis? No need, maybe a DD to my Audi.
Will it be your only car? No, 2003 Audi A4 as well
What value do you place on comfort? Not much for this.
What is your budget? Depends.
Does it have to be stock? Not necessarily, but would like to start stock.
How modified can it be? See above.
What are your mechanical skills? so so, lots of friends who can help though.

As far as the car above is

That car is listed at $6k, which seems to be good compared to the book value. I like it b/c it is newer, has the stronger head/1.8/diff/etc I'm not too worried about the color, though I prefer a blue.

 

Hey *******, I thought it got discontinued in 98. I guess I was wrong

 

Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?

 

**** just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's **** ups than make your own.