What kind of DIY stuff have you done?
01-01-2009, 08:46 PM
#42
Out of all my DIY stuff I've done, my favorite by far has been the audio setup. I ran the car for years with the crap deck and speakers the previous owner had, so its a major difference.
Tweeter fitted into vent cup-
In car view-
8" Kickers in the rear shelf-
Foam to seal off that area-
Flat black the engine bay-
Fitted 10" slim fans to my Ron Davis radiator-
Removed the white film on the needles and painted them red-
After reading this thread I just added fuel cut off switch to the list of "things to do this week".
Vash-
Tweeter fitted into vent cup-
In car view-
8" Kickers in the rear shelf-
Foam to seal off that area-
Flat black the engine bay-
Fitted 10" slim fans to my Ron Davis radiator-
Removed the white film on the needles and painted them red-
After reading this thread I just added fuel cut off switch to the list of "things to do this week".
Vash-
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01-03-2009, 12:35 AM
#44
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 49
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Turn signal headlights
Corrodo rotors
Brake Ducts
Sub frame braces
Front swaybar mounts
Fuel pump cutoff switch
IC
DP
3' Exhaust
Trailer hitch
Shock Mounts
Coolant reroute
Cam sensor block off plug
Crank sensor triggerwheel
6 pt cage
Corrodo rotors
Brake Ducts
Sub frame braces
Front swaybar mounts
Fuel pump cutoff switch
IC
DP
3' Exhaust
Trailer hitch
Shock Mounts
Coolant reroute
Cam sensor block off plug
Crank sensor triggerwheel
6 pt cage
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01-03-2009, 04:20 PM
#46
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1 seat and 1 door panel in. Excuse the absolute mess the interior is in, and all of the tangle of wires. Speaker wiring will be rodeone in a less sloppy manner. I think Im going to pull the passanger panel back off and redo it to try and further reduce the ugly wrinkles. I also have an issue with the passanger seat contacting the seat belt guide and part of the area where the seatbelt brace bolts in. Im going to try and take the rail back off and washer up the outer rail to raise that side and hopefully make the top lean more inward. Not sure why the seat grew so much. The inner side bolster also drags along the tunnel carpet. It will work though.
Old:
New:
Both:
Problem area:
Will also soon install the Nardi wheel and the roll bar padding and covers. Help finish off the interior.
Does anyone else have a problem with the carpet near the passanger footwell area coming loose. You can see in the second picture how the carpet on the side has come out from under the panel by the passangers feet, and exposes a wire loom/cover. I cant make it stay, its like the carpet has shifter inward, or doesnt go far enough up the sides.
Old:
New:
Both:
Problem area:
Will also soon install the Nardi wheel and the roll bar padding and covers. Help finish off the interior.
Does anyone else have a problem with the carpet near the passanger footwell area coming loose. You can see in the second picture how the carpet on the side has come out from under the panel by the passangers feet, and exposes a wire loom/cover. I cant make it stay, its like the carpet has shifter inward, or doesnt go far enough up the sides.
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01-03-2009, 06:31 PM
#48
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Must have. Even if there was a clip, the edge of the carpet when pulled tight is maybe only 1/4'' above the side panel. Im trying to think of a way to fix it, but cant think of anything short of screwing the carpet up with a self tapping screw.
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01-03-2009, 11:18 PM
#50
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Which is? Carpetless?
I have confirmed my thoughts on the Katzkin seat covers. The lower section is crooked because of the slit where the fixed arm sticks up from the pan where the pin and screw go through to secure the top portion of the seat. THe slit is stitched too small and tight, and your not able to twist the lower cover to make everything straight. So now both my driver and passanger sides have a twist to them. When you look at them from the front, the bolster stitching is slightly twisted towards the inside of the car, but its not bad enough that it sticks out too much. Have my other seat 80% done, but ran out of zip ties. That makes over 100 so far.
I have confirmed my thoughts on the Katzkin seat covers. The lower section is crooked because of the slit where the fixed arm sticks up from the pan where the pin and screw go through to secure the top portion of the seat. THe slit is stitched too small and tight, and your not able to twist the lower cover to make everything straight. So now both my driver and passanger sides have a twist to them. When you look at them from the front, the bolster stitching is slightly twisted towards the inside of the car, but its not bad enough that it sticks out too much. Have my other seat 80% done, but ran out of zip ties. That makes over 100 so far.
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02-09-2009, 01:06 AM
#53
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Oh well, I dont like how it turned out. Anybody wanna buy it?
Maybe I will just do the entire tunnell is just the diamond stitched vinyl. **** arm rests.
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02-09-2009, 01:30 AM
#54
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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I've done nearly all the work on my car for the past 3-4 years. Check out some of the highlights from the past year or so:
gauges in a CF gauge pod (axispowerracing did the pod)
coolant reroute and coil on plug conversion
Oil cooler install. In subfreezing temps, oil stays at 180F. In hard driving it goes up to about 200-205F.
And with homemade 240cfm fan installed.
Not all of my DIY projects are cars.
gauges in a CF gauge pod (axispowerracing did the pod)
coolant reroute and coil on plug conversion
Oil cooler install. In subfreezing temps, oil stays at 180F. In hard driving it goes up to about 200-205F.
And with homemade 240cfm fan installed.
Not all of my DIY projects are cars.
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02-09-2009, 02:37 AM
#56
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Some I can think of..
Custom intercooler setup. Pieced together with an IC and aluminum pipes from cxracing and couplers from Roadrace Engineering:
Seam welded the car and then stripped the interior and re-painted so it would look nice stripped;
Strengthened the strut towers:
Custom intercooler setup. Pieced together with an IC and aluminum pipes from cxracing and couplers from Roadrace Engineering:
Seam welded the car and then stripped the interior and re-painted so it would look nice stripped;
Strengthened the strut towers:
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02-09-2009, 03:51 AM
#59
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I'm not sure that my dwell reducer box works that great so I'm not sure I want to keep it.
When I just run the COP conversion directly hooked up to the ECU, it runs fine.
When I have the COP hooked up via the dwell reducer box, it often fails to start properly on the first crank. I've been busy so I haven't had time to call up boundary and whine about it yet.
When I just run the COP conversion directly hooked up to the ECU, it runs fine.
When I have the COP hooked up via the dwell reducer box, it often fails to start properly on the first crank. I've been busy so I haven't had time to call up boundary and whine about it yet.
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02-09-2009, 01:54 PM
#60
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I try my best not to buy anything. everything is DIY, roll cage to engine build, like head and manifold porting/ fab, coolant reroute, intercooler, oil cooler, down pipe, brakets for everything, The only 2 things on my car that arnt DIY are I bought MS PNP and the turbo its self. I have a tube bender, mig, tig, and soon plasma cutter. if anyone is local and wants a cage, or anything made.
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