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Old 09-25-2011, 04:26 PM   #21
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Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30 in all my cars. Turbo or na
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:52 AM   #22
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I guess adding to this thread is as good as any. So is there a census on the best oil Rotella T6 syn or dino? Lets say it's for a 140,000mile, turbo'd for 3years by a retard, now a new'ish owner. Car is DD and hopes of track time. I've always gone for the synthetic stuff in the past. Also no oil cooler other than the stock '99 thing.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:21 AM   #23
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I've always run royal purple (their standard stuff, not their $$$ 'race') and wix/millenia filters.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:12 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I've always run royal purple (their standard stuff, not their $$$ 'race') and wix/millenia filters.
Save your money, buy Rotella. Well, unless you have an aversion to fuel shear resistance and zinc.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:30 AM   #25
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Rotella T6... its cheap, and as good or better than most 'race' oil out there. There are plenty of threads about it. Its also pretty cheap, not really more than other synthetic oils.

Yes, its for diesels, that just means it can carry more crap around without breaking down... There's a ton of us that run it.... Makes HLA noise go away most of the time.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:57 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianferrell View Post
Rotella T6... its cheap, and as good or better than most 'race' oil out there. There are plenty of threads about it. Its also pretty cheap, not really more than other synthetic oils.

Yes, its for diesels, that just means it can carry more crap around without breaking down... There's a ton of us that run it.... Makes HLA noise go away most of the time.
Now that my oil temps are stuck at 220*f even in 103*f heat, I may try the dino oil to save some cash considering fuel shear is my change-interval determinant.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:13 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Save your money, buy Rotella. Well, unless you have an aversion to fuel shear resistance and zinc.
Where do you buy your rotella T6? I get my royal purple for $0.75/quart cheaper than amazon's price on rotella T6/quart.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Where do you buy your rotella T6? I get my royal purple for $0.75/quart cheaper than amazon's price on rotella T6/quart.
It was $17/gallon at OReilly last weekend so I bought a two-year supply. Walmart usually has it for $20/G.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:25 PM   #29
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Guess since we've resurrected the thread I can finally comment on this:
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Originally Posted by matthewdesigns View Post
Also Brad Penn 10-30, which is what I'm using in the Miata at the moment.
Interesting. I'd never heard of Brad Penn oil, so I went and checked out their website.
"Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils contain high zinc and phosphorous additive concentrations which can be detrimental to cars and trucks with catalytic converters. "
I wonder if that's important.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueZombie View Post
I guess adding to this thread is as good as any. So is there a census on the best oil Rotella T6 syn or dino?
I don't claim to be an oil guru, but I always ran M1 0w40 in the turbo car. I realize it's not the highest performer on every test, but it's relatively inexpensive, you can buy it anywhere (no need to mail order), my non water-cooled turbo didn't seem to mind it, and it did a good job of quieting the noisy HLAs.

In the non-turbo car, I run whatever happens to be cheapest.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
"Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils contain high zinc and phosphorous additive concentrations which can be detrimental to cars and trucks with catalytic converters. "
VOAs on BITOG aren't that great for the Brad Penn oils specifically on moly and zinc, and it's not cheap.

If this were for a turbo street car, I'd run Rotella in the white bottle and never look back on 5k OCIs.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:44 PM   #31
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Now being a broke college student again I still dont mind the few extra bucks for synthetic stuff if it's better. I used to be hard
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:47 PM   #32
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Wow. Stupid phone auto posted at the wrong moment. Anyways used to be hard on cars when I was younger. Not so much anymore. Age slows ya down and not being a teenager helps. But is the synthetic any better for a primarily street car? I keep seeing posts for lifter noise on synthetic but I believe the 99 and up is solid lifter
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:42 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Guess since we've resurrected the thread I can finally comment on this:
Interesting. I'd never heard of Brad Penn oil, so I went and checked out their website.
"Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils contain high zinc and phosphorous additive concentrations which can be detrimental to cars and trucks with catalytic converters. "
I wonder if that's important.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
VOAs on BITOG aren't that great for the Brad Penn oils specifically on moly and zinc, and it's not cheap.

If this were for a turbo street car, I'd run Rotella in the white bottle and never look back on 5k OCIs.
Both cars in which I've run Brad Penn have been catless so not a concern with respect to that. I was using it in my Talon on the recommendation of a local engine builder and I tossed it in the Miata since I had a half a case left.

I'll be going back to Rotella next change since it's a shitload cheaper and "wears" well. I ran that in the Talon prior to the switch to BP.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #34
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I started using Amsoil Dominator 10w-30 in my Evo when I swapped to E85. And now the Miata has been getting it since I purchased it 2 years ago. I use it because it's a pretty red color
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