iirc you should never have it in the exhaust unpowered.

Quoted from teh back of the LC-1 Quickstart guide

 

From the LC-1 manual, page 7:Bold, large type and all caps reproduced as printed- not my emphasis.

(edit) damn, Bryceness beat me to it.

 

I have no life haha.

 

Well, when I get mine, I guess I won't do that. :-)

I will say that if it's been getting damaged, it's not been happening quickly. I've had the same sensor in there for at least a year or two and it seems to work fine. I don't know who makes it or anything. But it's probably in the back bung, now that I'm thinking about it.

 

If water can't collect on the sensor, and it's in a location where it gets heated enough to burn the gunk off (but not so close it overheats), I'd bet that leaving it in unpowered isn't too detrimental.

 

What is the reason for it to be powered, what does that little bit of heat do for it?

 

Actually it's more than just a little heat; they get pretty warm. o2 sensors are heated so that they give reliable readings. they can skew their reading based on temp. I've seen graphs on the internet that show temp vs output error. google probably can bring them up.

 

So you're saying I wasted my only 'getting lucky' for the last two years on that?

Damn, and I thought it was my haircut.

 

yeah, you might not want to invest in lottery tickets for a while man.

 

It was funnier the way I read it. A little surprising, but funny.

 

Is there any detriment besides sensor life to running the wideband in the stock location, vs. further downstream on the downpipe? I just pulled my stock NB out and put the WB in its place.

Also, where is everyone grounding their LC-1? I am going to move it to the throttle body ECU grounds, but for now it's grounded (along with the rest of my gauges) below the stereo, directly to the body.

 

The excess heat from the turbo throws the readings off, as well as its not designed to work in temperatures over 900C according to the manual. Why would you bring it up to the stock location if you have a bung at the end of the DP anyway?

As for grounding? I have mine grounded to the block at the steel braided cable on the drivers side along with an MS ground at that point as well.

I don't plan to ground my gauges there though, they should be fine with a regular old ground anywhere else.

Btw. Where did you mount your LC1 Controller? I am guessing your cable comes up through the shifter boot?

 

It's more of a pain to get to, but you could pull the wire up though the stock 2nd O2 sensor local, the side of the tranny tunnel.

Sorry, after spending a month in mexico in a diesel project car with a busted turbo-header and an ill-fitting shifterboot (and rich maps), I'm against messing with the shift boot.

 

Because my lower wideband bung faces down. My controller is in the engine bay, next to the left shock tower, ziptied to a bracket I scavenged from some fancy system I ripped out of my once fully-loaded Miata.

as seen in this photo:

 

Thats cool that it reaches the bung from that location, I had a bad feeling it wouldnt with the Begi Pipe. Thanks for the picture.

 

It reaches the stock bung. Not the one BEGI installs at the end of the DP. Just to clarify.

 

Oh well that sucks. I didnt think I would have to mount it underneath the car and then run the cable through the shifter hole :(

 

Hello, am I invisible HERE? :-P

Look at my website where I have the pics of my O2 simulator, you'll notice there's a nice hole already in the car for the OEM O2 in the tranny tunnel.

 

I missed the link. I just looked at the site you posted, but found no pics of the hole in the tranny tunnel.

Btw. That O2 sim you have, thats for the secondary O2 sensor yes?

I am planning to keep both sensors in place after my install, so it shouldnt matter to me really.

 

Ok, admitedly, it's a terrible pic. :-) But that little black boot had the wires going through it.


Why would you keep the OEM sensor? Ok, $50 for the simulator is a bit spendy, but I figure instead of continually buying new sensors, I could buy that once, and it's worked out for me. Of course, as soon as you upgrade to a high-flow (or hollow) cat, the computer will throw CEL lights and it will be all that sensors fault.

Personally, I'd say with an aftermarket ECU you might as well scrap the whole O2 monitoring set up, and if you're not going to, I'd get the WB to share a signal with your OEM computer, and use an O2Sim to avoid the CEL. It comes out clean and when it's done you'll never need to do it again. If I was smart, I'd sell you mine. :-)


[edit] that is basically under the driver's seat