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Old 08-09-2012, 02:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I have a vintage Radiator Barn double-pass.

ducting is not radiator specific. It doesn't attach to the radiator, it attaches to the car. Go ahead and build the ducting now, the stock radiator is fine for any street car, even the turbo ones. I only replaced mine because it was plastic and I didn't want to burst the radiator with all my Dallas to Houston driving.
Wait, all you have is Radiator Barn stuff in your turbo car? In the Texas heat?....An eBay racing radiator may be in my near future.

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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Both should go on when you push the A/C button.

sorry, I am late to this thread.
I rewired the fans.

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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Check the rotation of your main radiator fan. Another member had a similar problem years ago and found that when his main fan started at highway speed it was stopping the flow of air through the radiator.
FUUU...It seemed to rotate fine last night? Or do you mean it's set on push instead of pull? I'll check both!

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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
I believe you have a slow HG leak.

Do you have an unusually high capacity radiator?

If you have an unusually high water capacity, then simple heat expansion might fill the overflow tank, but I have extreme doubts about that possibility. Air expands at a significantly higher rate than water.
Well, I have a stock rad, with a rather large amount of extra capacity due to the reroute I made.

Quote:
Got a go-pro? Take the hood off and mount it in the engine bay looking at the coolant tank. Take the car to full boost and see if you get air bubbles in the overflow tank.

A slow HG Leak might push out a pretty good amount of water over time while not being nearly as obvious as a slightly warped head. When the car cools, the air that is left in the system contracts enough to pull all of that water back into the system. The next time you start the car, that air, which now resides mostly in the radiator, is expelled first as the car heats up, which is why "air in the system" is normally self-curing, but if you have new air being introduced into the system, you'll continue to experience the problem.
Fuuuuuuu.....Yeah, this is exactly what I don't want. Can I test for this the same as I would test for a busted rotary coolant jacket? I mean, it should alert it with a coolant block tester if it's pushing exhaust gases through the coolant, right?

Last edited by blaen99; 08-09-2012 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:11 PM   #22
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i have been going thru this with my turbo 95 for a while.
I bought the 55 mm Koyo as the turbo went on.It lasted about 4-6 months and developed a leak tight in the center between the fans.Took it to a radiator expert ,said the interior was mush ,sent it back.
Got a new Koyo 37mm this time ,fits better.Lasted 3-4 months ,split in the same place.
Ordered a misimoto 53 mm .When it arrived it was too warped to install.
I bought a oem style and it has been perfect for the last 2 months.
I had the same symptoms as you.Did a block check,leak down,compression check ,all were perfect.
I too have a re-route ,Bell provided.
Look hard at the radiator,test the cap ,i kept the Koyo aftermarket ,it can be preassure tested.
I`m back to 50-50 coolant after ,Water Wetter,Royal purple ice,and distilled water with both.Very little difference except with coolant you should be able to find the leak.Also look at the heater hoses ,replaced with silicone ones.
Good luck
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:33 PM   #23
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Okay, I had an opportunity during lunch to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant with a block tester.

There are no exhaust gasses in the coolant. Period.

Since the coolant is remaining relatively static, I also do not believe it could be a HG leak because I'm not actually losing any coolant. There are no bubbles in either the overflow or the radiator while the car is running either.

I think the coolant is just sucking in and pushing out an abnormal amount due to the excess volume from the reroute. Additionally, I keep the Miata in a (somewhat) temperature-controlled much-cooler-garage-than-the-outside which only makes the expansion worse. There are no leaks anywhere, and I'm not losing coolant. I'm just getting an abnormal amount of expansion of coolant, with no exhaust gases or bubbles in the coolant.

At least that's my best guess, and I was hoping that I could get someone to tell me if I'm an idiot or not.
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:48 PM   #24
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Wait, all you have is Radiator Barn stuff in your turbo car? In the Texas heat?....An eBay racing radiator may be in my near future.
It is gigantic with huge cores.
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:53 PM   #25
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It is gigantic with huge cores.
The "core size 12-5/8 X 25-7/16 X 1-5/16" two row one? Isn't that only a 33mm core size rad?
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:53 PM   #26
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It looks thick, but maybe. I have a ton of work in the cooling system.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:08 PM   #27
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FUUU...It seemed to rotate fine last night? Or do you mean it's set on push instead of pull? I'll check both!
If the fan is rotating in the wrong direction(push instead of pull) it will work fine at speed until it turns on. Will also work at idle.

Especially might be a problem since you rewired.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:30 PM   #28
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It looks thick, but maybe. I have a ton of work in the cooling system.
Wow. I'm surprised at your results if it's only a 33mm core, time to go read the hell out of your build thread then! I may just go the eBay racing route and just duct that - I'd really rather not put work into something I know I'm going to replace.

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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
If the fan is rotating in the wrong direction(push instead of pull) it will work fine at speed until it turns on. Will also work at idle.

Especially might be a problem since you rewired.
Gorramnit, thank you so much. That's something I would have never thought of, I'll definitely check that out ASAP.
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