Yet Another Overheating Topic
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I have a vintage Radiator Barn double-pass.
ducting is not radiator specific. It doesn't attach to the radiator, it attaches to the car. Go ahead and build the ducting now, the stock radiator is fine for any street car, even the turbo ones. I only replaced mine because it was plastic and I didn't want to burst the radiator with all my Dallas to Houston driving.
ducting is not radiator specific. It doesn't attach to the radiator, it attaches to the car. Go ahead and build the ducting now, the stock radiator is fine for any street car, even the turbo ones. I only replaced mine because it was plastic and I didn't want to burst the radiator with all my Dallas to Houston driving.
I believe you have a slow HG leak.
Do you have an unusually high capacity radiator?
If you have an unusually high water capacity, then simple heat expansion might fill the overflow tank, but I have extreme doubts about that possibility. Air expands at a significantly higher rate than water.
Do you have an unusually high capacity radiator?
If you have an unusually high water capacity, then simple heat expansion might fill the overflow tank, but I have extreme doubts about that possibility. Air expands at a significantly higher rate than water.
Got a go-pro? Take the hood off and mount it in the engine bay looking at the coolant tank. Take the car to full boost and see if you get air bubbles in the overflow tank.
A slow HG Leak might push out a pretty good amount of water over time while not being nearly as obvious as a slightly warped head. When the car cools, the air that is left in the system contracts enough to pull all of that water back into the system. The next time you start the car, that air, which now resides mostly in the radiator, is expelled first as the car heats up, which is why "air in the system" is normally self-curing, but if you have new air being introduced into the system, you'll continue to experience the problem.
A slow HG Leak might push out a pretty good amount of water over time while not being nearly as obvious as a slightly warped head. When the car cools, the air that is left in the system contracts enough to pull all of that water back into the system. The next time you start the car, that air, which now resides mostly in the radiator, is expelled first as the car heats up, which is why "air in the system" is normally self-curing, but if you have new air being introduced into the system, you'll continue to experience the problem.
Last edited by blaen99; Aug 9, 2012 at 01:34 PM.
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i have been going thru this with my turbo 95 for a while.
I bought the 55 mm Koyo as the turbo went on.It lasted about 4-6 months and developed a leak tight in the center between the fans.Took it to a radiator expert ,said the interior was mush ,sent it back.
Got a new Koyo 37mm this time ,fits better.Lasted 3-4 months ,split in the same place.
Ordered a misimoto 53 mm .When it arrived it was too warped to install.
I bought a oem style and it has been perfect for the last 2 months.
I had the same symptoms as you.Did a block check,leak down,compression check ,all were perfect.
I too have a re-route ,Bell provided.
Look hard at the radiator,test the cap ,i kept the Koyo aftermarket ,it can be preassure tested.
I`m back to 50-50 coolant after ,Water Wetter,Royal purple ice,and distilled water with both.Very little difference except with coolant you should be able to find the leak.Also look at the heater hoses ,replaced with silicone ones.
Good luck
I bought the 55 mm Koyo as the turbo went on.It lasted about 4-6 months and developed a leak tight in the center between the fans.Took it to a radiator expert ,said the interior was mush ,sent it back.
Got a new Koyo 37mm this time ,fits better.Lasted 3-4 months ,split in the same place.
Ordered a misimoto 53 mm .When it arrived it was too warped to install.
I bought a oem style and it has been perfect for the last 2 months.
I had the same symptoms as you.Did a block check,leak down,compression check ,all were perfect.
I too have a re-route ,Bell provided.
Look hard at the radiator,test the cap ,i kept the Koyo aftermarket ,it can be preassure tested.
I`m back to 50-50 coolant after ,Water Wetter,Royal purple ice,and distilled water with both.Very little difference except with coolant you should be able to find the leak.Also look at the heater hoses ,replaced with silicone ones.
Good luck
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Okay, I had an opportunity during lunch to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant with a block tester.
There are no exhaust gasses in the coolant. Period.
Since the coolant is remaining relatively static, I also do not believe it could be a HG leak because I'm not actually losing any coolant. There are no bubbles in either the overflow or the radiator while the car is running either.
I think the coolant is just sucking in and pushing out an abnormal amount due to the excess volume from the reroute. Additionally, I keep the Miata in a (somewhat) temperature-controlled much-cooler-garage-than-the-outside which only makes the expansion worse. There are no leaks anywhere, and I'm not losing coolant. I'm just getting an abnormal amount of expansion of coolant, with no exhaust gases or bubbles in the coolant.
At least that's my best guess, and I was hoping that I could get someone to tell me if I'm an idiot or not.
There are no exhaust gasses in the coolant. Period.
Since the coolant is remaining relatively static, I also do not believe it could be a HG leak because I'm not actually losing any coolant. There are no bubbles in either the overflow or the radiator while the car is running either.
I think the coolant is just sucking in and pushing out an abnormal amount due to the excess volume from the reroute. Additionally, I keep the Miata in a (somewhat) temperature-controlled much-cooler-garage-than-the-outside which only makes the expansion worse. There are no leaks anywhere, and I'm not losing coolant. I'm just getting an abnormal amount of expansion of coolant, with no exhaust gases or bubbles in the coolant.
At least that's my best guess, and I was hoping that I could get someone to tell me if I'm an idiot or not.
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Especially might be a problem since you rewired.
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Wow. I'm surprised at your results if it's only a 33mm core, time to go read the hell out of your build thread then! I may just go the eBay racing route and just duct that - I'd really rather not put work into something I know I'm going to replace.
Gorramnit, thank you so much. That's something I would have never thought of, I'll definitely check that out ASAP.
Gorramnit, thank you so much. That's something I would have never thought of, I'll definitely check that out ASAP.
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