Aluminum Adjustable Cam Gear 99$ First 10 gets the price. - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-09-2009, 04:41 PM   #1
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Default Aluminum Adjustable Cam Gear 99$ First 10 gets the price.

Aluminum Cam Gears ready to go at 99$ shipped a piece. These are the lightest cam gears out there, and are meant to be a bridge between performance and value of the carbon based units which will be $139 a piece. These fit 89-97 both gears, 99-05 exhaust gears. The 99-00 intake gears are coming soon.

Kits include per a gear; 3 pin indexers, 3 stainless studs, 3 stainless nuts, 3 wave-lock washers, 7075 duralum inner and outer pieces, with the aluminum anodized to a couple of prime colors you guys can hash out.

These gears have been tested on multiple 250 whp vehicles, and red-lines above 7200 without slip, or any signs of wear. They're theoretical power limit is above 1000hp, so you can definitely go into these with confidence.

The main feature is the extra timing dials and clear markings for adjusting timing, it also features 3 large ultra-strong studs instead of 5-6 small bolts on other cam gears that make adjustments time consuming. Just loosen three studs and you are ready to go. The wave locks also steady the cam against moving from valve spring pressure while your trying to adjust it. These are really meant to reduce the effort of setting the timing, and once its set the high quality anodized parts and stainless fasteners don't corrode, or loosen!
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:57 PM   #2
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Looking good! Whats the timing on the Carbon Fiber Gears?
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:22 PM   #3
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Carbon fiber units will be out in the next month definitely, but we're still working everything over.

Also on these units you can go different colors of anodize on the outer and inner, or one clear anodized aluminum and one anodized color its whatever.
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:34 PM   #4
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What about NAs with 99-00 head swap? Those can use the regular pair of cam gears right? (Assuming that the difference between the intake cams is the sensor nubs.)
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:24 PM   #5
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Correct!
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:33 PM   #6
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oh man...if I knew enough about tuning I might have to get a set in green. We need a crank pully hall sensor mount too...because it would be a nightmare to adjust the cam our CAS is attached to.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:33 PM   #7
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In for a set of '99 cam wheels + crank pulley bits when they're ready!

I'm with Hustler - go the green! Green centre with clear/polished outer FTW!
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:50 PM   #8
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ill get a set for my '99 head too!
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:01 PM   #9
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I'm in. 1.6 for me. Clear/silver for me.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:14 PM   #10
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not really off topic:
anyone have links to adjustable sprocket dyno tuning? I'd be more interested if I knew what to do with them on the dyno.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:32 PM   #11
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If your anodizing them maybe I'll go with an aluminum full set then for the 99 when their done! :-) blk/grn combo would be cool
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:32 AM   #12
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Damn... more **** to spend money on. Those pieces look the bizzness and appear to have some serious engineering behind them.

I've never heard of aftermarket adj cam gears breaking... is carbon-fiber an option for those worried about it, or simply because they're lighter. If lighter, would these be for guys who've already gone to a lightened valvetrain and need the weight reduction to help with high-rpm?

I found this recent thread about cam-tuning:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t29678/

I'm all about more power with no increase in boost. I'm happy about the research by the 20lb heads in the industry in the cam area. Emilio had that big thread about his measurements on the various Miata cams over the years... and I think he busted some myth about the MSM cams. A set of these gears with an exhintake swap sounds like cheap power.

Mini-threadjack:
Curious... does "The Machine" have adj cam-gears?

Last edited by samnavy; 04-10-2009 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
not really off topic:
anyone have links to adjustable sprocket dyno tuning? I'd be more interested if I knew what to do with them on the dyno.
same way you tune spark kinda.

turn it all the way one way, dyno
turn other way, dyno
turn to center, dyno
turn half way between two previous highest runs, dyno
repeat
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:35 AM   #14
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Start off reducing the overlap- advance the exhaust, retard the intake.

Here's the tool for adjusting the intake gear on NBs- a spare cam cover:
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:21 AM   #15
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I like these, they look pretty. How do you cut the teeth?

Are light cam pulleys a good thing on OHC 4cyls?
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Mini-threadjack:
Curious... does "The Machine" have adj cam-gears?
Who's Machine?
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I like these, they look pretty. How do you cut the teeth?

Are light cam pulleys a good thing on OHC 4cyls?
Teeth are done with an end mill, I think they are three passes worth in the Z-axis.

Lightweight is about the standard to any part of the car especially if its rotational. Race teams use gun-barrel drilled camshafts, or alternatively the ford contour engine has another type of camshaft that uses a special type of casting that’s hollow, but suitable for the job. The cam gears themselves are just more mass the engine doesn't need.

The lightweight is good, but the main thing that makes this a good product is how easy they are to use. I just got a report back from john that he has put 600 miles on these at California Motor Speedway so far with absolutely zero slip. That is the Rotrex supercharged car @ 2xx WHP. We turned these out right. First shot, zero problems, SOLID engineering.

So we've got some people who want green, some want black, and some want clear. Anyone want any other colors?? I'll see if I can get some samples.

Last edited by TravisR; 04-10-2009 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Man that grammar was horrible ha-ha
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisR View Post
Teeth are done with an endmill, I think they are tree passes worth in the Z-axis.

Lightweight is about the standard to any part of the car especially if its rotational. Raceteams use gun-barellel drilled camshafts, or alternatively the ford contour engine has another type of camshaft that uses a special type of casting thats hollow, but suitable for the job. The camgears themselves are just more mass the engine doesn't need.

The lightweight is good, but the main things that makes this a good product is how easy they are to use. I just got a report back from john they he put 600 miles on these at California Motor Speedway so far with absolutely zero slip. That is the rotrex supercharged car we turned these out right. First shot, zero problems. SOLID engineering.

So we've got some people who want green, some want black, and somewant clear. Any other colors?? I'll see if I can get some samples.
The engines I design valvetrain for don't always like lightweight camshafts (or cam pulleys), but what I do is about the furthest from a DOHC 4 cyl so I figured I'd ask. I'd loose my job quick if I put a miata head on one of the spintrons we have at work.

I like that they only have 3 bolts, which is more than enough.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
not really off topic:
anyone have links to adjustable sprocket dyno tuning? I'd be more interested if I knew what to do with them on the dyno.
Depends on where you want your power to go. Popular thing is to retard teh intake (and maybe advance exh too) which will loose some low end but should give a lot up top if you have the other mods for it.

I want a 99/00 type intake side adjustable gear which I will use to retard the intake cam.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:49 PM   #20
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based on my quick 'n dirty testing, the most top end gains are to be had in the last few degrees of retard. I did 6 advance, 3 retard, and 12 retard and it wasn't a linear relationship.

adv / [email protected] / [email protected]
+6 / 200 / 150 rwhp
-3 / 210 / 180 rwhp
-12 / 185 / 237 rwhp

also, advancing the intake too far will not gain you low end. prior to 3750, going from +6 to -3 made almost no change. so you can at least start with a little cam retard and not lose any power down low. I'm not sure what my "3 deg retard" corresponds to on a static intake cam, but there you go.
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