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Old 10-15-2009, 01:05 PM   #21
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Nicely done!

What model caliper do you use if sourcing yourself?
Reposting to help my search for cheap used calipers
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:54 PM   #22
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The kit uses Wilwood Dynalite calipers.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:00 PM   #23
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He's asking for the model number you use since there's eleventy billion different calipers.

You'd need 1.4" piston calipers to match the stock piston size. I'd assume 120-6805 for 1" rotor or 120-6806 for .810" rotor 120-6806 WILL work with standard corrado rotors. The difference is only .05". I confirmed it with wilwood tech support, and then found that KMAG is running it.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:44 PM   #24
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Nice kit. Wonder how much better the DBA rotors are in terms of cooling. They better well be alot better for their $$$.

Cooling will still be an issue either way.

Are you planning to release cooling duct spindle plates that support keeping the ABS sensors? This winter?
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:50 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Any theories why a 4 piston caliper solves rotor cracking?
Here's Sav's theory in a nutshell: The uneven pad pressure (which results in uneven pad wear), causes uneven rotor heating, and high thermal gradients can cause cracking.

Last edited by JasonC SBB; 10-15-2009 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:11 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Ben View Post
He's asking for the model number you use since there's eleventy billion different calipers.

You'd need 1.4" piston calipers to match the stock piston size.
Is there a caliper that's got the 2 pistons' total area that's X% smaller than the stocker's piston area, where X% is the amount that the Corrado rotors' pad center to spindle distance is greater than the stockers, in order to roughly match bias to factory?
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
He's asking for the model number you use since there's eleventy billion different calipers.

You'd need 1.4" piston calipers to match the stock piston size. I'd assume 120-6805 for 1" rotor or 120-6806 for .810" rotor 120-6806 WILL work with standard corrado rotors. The difference is only .05". I confirmed it with wilwood tech support, and then found that KMAG is running it.
Exactly, thanks Ben.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:22 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Is there a caliper that's got the 2 pistons' total area that's X% smaller than the stocker's piston area, where X% is the amount that the Corrado rotors' pad center to spindle distance is greater than the stockers, in order to roughly match bias to factory?
Isn't it easier to pick a caliper/rotor/pad combo that is better in terms of pricing/fit/availability and just use a proportioning valve for bias?

Chris
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:03 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Is there a caliper that's got the 2 pistons' total area that's X% smaller than the stocker's piston area, where X% is the amount that the Corrado rotors' pad center to spindle distance is greater than the stockers, in order to roughly match bias to factory?
Maybe, I don't know the pad center to spindle distances. The step down in size from 1.38" pistons is to 1.25", or 90%. Might be what you're looking for.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:28 PM   #30
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And those calipers fit?? (BTW that's an 18% reduction FWIW).

If so that would get rid of the need for a prop valve!

My concern about the FM prop valve solution is that while it may give you the right prop for the track on whatever tires you have, it may still be wrong in the wet. (I know, the solution would be to have a different setting wet vs dry) My 2000 has ABS and IMO the factory proportioning is pretty darn good from wet to dry.

Anyone have the 1.8 stock piston diameters?
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:33 PM   #31
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I think my car with the full BBK (front Wilwood, rear bracket with larger discs) and 94 ABS is also pretty good proportioned for track use. Are people using the prop valve with ABS?
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:37 PM   #32
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Bah, it's 90% of the diameter, not 90% of the area. Sorry, I forgot to expand it out. My bad.

NB non sport front brakes are 2" diameter pistons. Should hold true for all standard 1.8 brakes. 1.6 brakes might be the same. Sport/MSM have a slightly larger piston.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
My concern about the FM prop valve solution is that while it may give you the right prop for the track on whatever tires you have, it may still be wrong in the wet.
The OEM prop valve is worse than a properly set-up FM valve in this respect, Jason. With the OEM valve, you send a ton to the front, and very little to the rear. With the FM valve, you send a bunch to the front, but enough to the rear as well.

Let's wet the roads down, now. With the OEM valve, you're still stuffing all that force to the front, but there's not as much weight transfer, which means not as much weight on the front tires, and suddenly they lock faster.

With the FM valve, you're sending more, which means as the rear tires do more of the work (in the rain, your rear tires do more work braking vs in the dry due to the lack of weight transfer). The FM valve would be BETTER than the OEM valve in the wet.

Race car drivers ADD rear bias in the rain.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:45 PM   #34
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i have the FM bias valve in my car and I've driven on the street in the wet and dry AND on the track in the wet and dry.

I set it up on the track in the dry a couple months ago because I finally got the tread worn off and had extreme grip. After the first session and 4 pit visits, the car was set up right. The car stops incredibly well, with enough rear bias that several people commented on how much the rear of the car wiggles on threshold braking. This car stops, and its easy to control in extreme trail braking...like 75-85mph through a triple-apex with a crest in the middle and off camber, downhill trail braking into a corner that tightens with an compromise exit.

Last weekend I drove in the rain on the track, and drove home in a light-shower, on slicks and had no danger issues either. Get the brake valve.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:47 PM   #35
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I also currently have sport brakes and they suck ***/kill pads in roughly 1.5 track events or 3 hours of track time. You really need multi-piston calipers if you're driving like a man.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I also currently have sport brakes and they suck ***/kill pads in roughly 1.5 track events or 3 hours of track time. You really need multi-piston calipers if you're driving like a man.
Or brake too much j/k.
You have ABS too, or not?
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:12 AM   #37
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5 orders recieved, the price is now $600 for the next 5.
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:12 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Or brake too much j/k.
You have ABS too, or not?
no ABS, I'm a man.
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Old 10-17-2009, 04:06 AM   #39
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If my car was running and I was a man I would have bought in. Instead i left my car in storage in TN for the past 6 months in un-running condition.
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Old 10-17-2009, 04:52 AM   #40
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I should not have read this. Trying to sell a kidney for these right now. I presume that the rings for the rotors are the same as M-tuned supplied with their kit?
Make it happen?
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