It seemed not to have movement because of the silicone seal used during assembly. It acts like a glue. Remember, silicone is used all around the pump and up against the oil pan. So yes regardless, it would need to be pried off.

Remember it doesn't take visible movement of the pump at high rpms to cause issues.

My comment was during assembly to note the clamping force of that bolt when comparing the space between the pump housing and the block.

 

WTF where you doing that.

Have you not seen the bazillion threads about the URP F@$@ up turbo motors?

 

We now direct you to a post your should have read and would have absorbed if you didn't learn reading comprehension in the public school system https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...8&postcount=32

 

I question your reading comprehension more than Pitlab77's. He's right. Welcome to "beaten to death UR pulley killing oil pump discussions" circa 1995.

Why should we have to follow links to different forums to understand your stupidity? I didn't need to read past the title of the thread to realize you fucked up with your parts combo.

Frank

 

I think tony's point is the potential flex on the internal pump surfaces because of the missing bolt. I see his point, and I know that bolt is missing on a lot miata race cars I've seen. That said, it probably doesn't make any difference at that low power.

I don't know that beating Paul up over his decision is gonna fix his motor. It's nice to learn from others' mistakes, but when you can't sometimes you learn from your own... by default.

 

you dont have to follow the links dumbass. he was referring Pit to the post where he says "I was new to the turbo scene and took the advice of 2 people i USED TO respect in that area (OlderGuy and RobR)" . everyone at one point is new to the turbo scene and has to learn stuff first hand. and sometimes u get bad advice. Like now i know that i have to replace the underdrive pulley when the turbo gets put on.

 

when the billet oil pump gears are done, anyone with an underdrive pulley has to buy two sets.

 

I was not an active member of miataturbo.net before the car was turbo'd with the underdrive pulley in place. I followed the advice of someone who has been a much more integral part of this forum than you and another person who has turbo'd more cars than you have driven. Since I've been active on miataturbo.net I have seen only one thread on underdrive pulleys and NOBODY had any first hand experience with an exploded oil pump due to an underdrive pulley. Only "i heard this" "i read that". We'll I may have heard your mother takes in her *** from strangers but you don't see me lining up with a condom on. Now if I had clicked on that link showing your mom with a line of men out the door waiting with their ***** out it'd might a different story. Instead I will choose to take it as hearsay and keep my dick away from your mom.

People make all kinds of claims and distortions about all different kinds of products. I'm not saying they are all unwarranted. FM claims the motor will last 2000 miles if you boost with a underdrive pulley. Does that statement seem accurate to you? Well I've put 40k miles on with that pulley on a motor making ~355hp. How long has your 350hp stock motor lasted?

There are a bajillion threads on m.net and elsewhere about how fragile SSR Comps are and how they shouldn't be used on the street. Well I have yet to damage one and I drive 60k+ miles a year in my Miatas. IN JERSEY!

 

Just save it for when Frank's LS1 catches on fire

 

at Tims comment: Paul, is the 94 block getting a set of gears or will you give it a whirl with just the OEM crank pulley?

 

Hasn't he read all the warnings available virtually everywhere about gasoline being flammable and combustible? That would be assanine to force lots of it into a pressurized compartment with oxygen and some electricity.


It's getting a brand new oil pump with oem gears. going with the ATI pulley.

 

sorry to post on an old thread but will i be ok if i were to get billet steel oil gears and a super damper to be safe with my oil pump.

 

The upgraded billet gears and ati dampener is pretty much the only thing you can do to upgrade that system. Having the entire rotating assembly balanced might help as well.

 

ok sounds good