27 miatas in GT5
#121
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If I had an actual racing sim, I would have a wheel and pedal setup, but no console game has ever achieved near simulation levels. At least not enough to warrant me spending several hundred dollars. I've always gotten by perfectly fine with racing games with my dual analog.
Gave it another try, and still pretty much hate racing. No matter the car or mods, the goddamn things love to have snappy over-steer and regaining control from a slide often leads to a snap in the other direction and into a wall. The only saving graces I have found are b-spec mode and photo travel mode. b-spec allows for a little bit of input to control your computer driver, and you still earn credits, and the photo mode has lots of options. Mine didn't transfer well over to my computer, seemed just right on my TV, but on my monitor, they are all over exposed. For some reason photoshop wasn't recognizing the jpg's and I couldn't open them to fix the exposure problems. QUOTE]
well, i think it may be more real than your used to. i can't tell you how many people i have seen do exactly what your describing out on a track. with the game it's easy to go speeds that in real life, your ***** and sense of self preservation would prevent. that said, i drove it last night with the g27 wheel and yes, at first it felt like you describe. but once i turned all the driving aids off, and started controlling the throttle better, it felt pretty good. pretty real. lastly, have you ever driven on a racetrack? a real one? if not it's hard to say how realistic it is to drive 10/10ths on a track. nothing you do on the street is even close. if you argue that point you obviously have never driven on track before. (this part isn't directed specifically @ you na6, i'm asking these questions in general to whoever)
i was also disappointed at the lack of difference for years spent making it. and the sound does suck compared to forza, but the driving feels and looks less arcady than forza or shift.
Gave it another try, and still pretty much hate racing. No matter the car or mods, the goddamn things love to have snappy over-steer and regaining control from a slide often leads to a snap in the other direction and into a wall. The only saving graces I have found are b-spec mode and photo travel mode. b-spec allows for a little bit of input to control your computer driver, and you still earn credits, and the photo mode has lots of options. Mine didn't transfer well over to my computer, seemed just right on my TV, but on my monitor, they are all over exposed. For some reason photoshop wasn't recognizing the jpg's and I couldn't open them to fix the exposure problems. QUOTE]
well, i think it may be more real than your used to. i can't tell you how many people i have seen do exactly what your describing out on a track. with the game it's easy to go speeds that in real life, your ***** and sense of self preservation would prevent. that said, i drove it last night with the g27 wheel and yes, at first it felt like you describe. but once i turned all the driving aids off, and started controlling the throttle better, it felt pretty good. pretty real. lastly, have you ever driven on a racetrack? a real one? if not it's hard to say how realistic it is to drive 10/10ths on a track. nothing you do on the street is even close. if you argue that point you obviously have never driven on track before. (this part isn't directed specifically @ you na6, i'm asking these questions in general to whoever)
i was also disappointed at the lack of difference for years spent making it. and the sound does suck compared to forza, but the driving feels and looks less arcady than forza or shift.
#122
I love my G27. Set the force feedback on 7, the wheel setting to real/simulation, transmission to manual, and hit the road. Is there a wheel option in Forza where if you don't clutch in, you can't shift gears? Because the G27 has that feature.
What do you need to configure anyway? You steer and shift. The top red buttons on the wheel are for look-behind. What else do you need? Everything else is unnecessary.
This game and this wheel could teach someone how to drive stick. Honestly, all DMV's should have the setup I have, and use it for their drivers license tests. The real-world tests are stupid and easy. I remember going around a bend, stopping at a stop sign, counting to 3, look left right left, go, stop, parallel park. Give a kid a Viper with all aids off and make him win 1st place a few times without ramming into AI or running off track. Then give him a license.
The 1970 Mitsubishi GTO (original 3000GT) is bad-ace. I just barely beat 70s supercars with it because I dumped all my money into it for kicks.
What do you need to configure anyway? You steer and shift. The top red buttons on the wheel are for look-behind. What else do you need? Everything else is unnecessary.
This game and this wheel could teach someone how to drive stick. Honestly, all DMV's should have the setup I have, and use it for their drivers license tests. The real-world tests are stupid and easy. I remember going around a bend, stopping at a stop sign, counting to 3, look left right left, go, stop, parallel park. Give a kid a Viper with all aids off and make him win 1st place a few times without ramming into AI or running off track. Then give him a license.
The 1970 Mitsubishi GTO (original 3000GT) is bad-ace. I just barely beat 70s supercars with it because I dumped all my money into it for kicks.
#123
IMO they spent way too much time on eye candy and not where it counts. No brake options is just ******* sad. From all the **** I've been reading it sounds like this game is a major disappointment. After waiting all this time for this stupid ******* game to come out and finally seeing the final product I'm pretty disappointed. Is there a tire width option or are we supposed to run little 195 bike tires on the miata? What about tire pressure and ARBs?
Uhhh
http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showth...68#post4160307
exhaust:
wtf.
Uhhh
http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showth...68#post4160307
exhaust:
wtf.
Last edited by 9671111; 11-28-2010 at 02:21 PM.
#128
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Since I can't accept standard cars, that rules out any of the cool used cars in the game, so I'm stuck with buying pretty much only newer cars. What a let down.
#129
don't let the lack of cockpit view or bad graphics for standards ruin it for you. I love my 1970 Mitsu GTO and 1987 Mugen Motul Civic. The engine sounds may not be 100% true to life, but some of them sound amazing anyway. I don't think PD was able to hook up sound equipment to every car featured in the game, so I'm not going to be so upset. They did a great job for what it's worth.
And a D90 is super-expensive and overkill for my learning purposes. A D3100 with lens would run me around half the price of a D90.
And a D90 is super-expensive and overkill for my learning purposes. A D3100 with lens would run me around half the price of a D90.
#130
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don't let the lack of cockpit view or bad graphics for standards ruin it for you. I love my 1970 Mitsu GTO and 1987 Mugen Motul Civic. The engine sounds may not be 100% true to life, but some of them sound amazing anyway. I don't think PD was able to hook up sound equipment to every car featured in the game, so I'm not going to be so upset. They did a great job for what it's worth.
And a D90 is super-expensive and overkill for my learning purposes. A D3100 with lens would run me around half the price of a D90.
And a D90 is super-expensive and overkill for my learning purposes. A D3100 with lens would run me around half the price of a D90.
D3100 kit w/ 18-55mm VR lens: ($646.95)
http://www.adorama.com/INKD3100K.html
D90 refurb body: ($719.95)
http://www.adorama.com/INKD90R.html
Adorama has the 18-55 VR anywhere from $100 in open box new condition, up to $180 for new in the box with warranty. Best all purpose lens, and wouldn't you know it, it comes with most of their camera kits for a reason. Also has some of the best optics of any Nikon lens. Then to cover all bases, get a 35mm f/1.8 for your low light shooting, and a 55-200 for everything out of range of the 18-55. Or you could pass up the 18-55 and a 55-200 and just spend a bit more and get an 18-200 to cover all of that range in one lens. But they run about $700 vs $380 for the 2 lenses separate. Only downside to the 55-200 is the fact its only f/4-5.6, the 18-200 is a f/3.5 like the 18-55.
Last edited by NA6C-Guy; 11-29-2010 at 12:43 AM.
#138
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From what I understand they're not really redone and just direct ports. Can't paint them, can't change the wheels, limited views ( no interior cam), limited zoom on camera mode, etc. Makes sense considering the screens I posted. I mean look at the Berlinette. That **** is shameful.