4dr sedan... the wife demands a manual!
04-26-2020, 06:20 PM
#21
He says it's a GT, but it's not... cloth interior and no sunroof. Otherwise that's a solid candidate... he's about $2k high on price, but I understand why somebody might think a bone-stock one at 129k is worth it. Looking further into the history of that FB page does not give me hope for the long-term survival of the model. I think the final count was just over 5000 produced.
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04-27-2020, 04:38 AM
#22
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https://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/...112405401.html
What do I need to know about the F10 chassis and N55 motor? Apparently 350whp and 400ftlbs is just a matter of an intake and an Accessport?
What do I need to know about the F10 chassis and N55 motor? Apparently 350whp and 400ftlbs is just a matter of an intake and an Accessport?
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04-27-2020, 06:00 AM
#23
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N55... valve cover gasket, VANOS solenoid, HPFP, water pump, oil filter housing gasket... will all fail at some point... repairs pretty straight-forward.
Oil pan gasket potential... requires front subframe removal... $1500.
Oil pan gasket potential... requires front subframe removal... $1500.
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04-27-2020, 07:05 AM
#24
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Have you ever had to physically work on a BMW?
Every repair I've ever had to do that wasn't basic required a tremendous amount of time and effort.
Every repair I've ever had to do that wasn't basic required a tremendous amount of time and effort.
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04-27-2020, 08:21 AM
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As someone who owns 4 modern-ish bmws, ya that sounds about right. The fixes are usually DIY doable, just make sure you have a good source on parts so you dont go broke
The "F" series bmws are generally soft. Newer yes, but the steering/chassis really does feel like **** compared to the older ones.
N55 is a pretty good motor; other than the bolt on parts that fail the rod bearings have been known to go. Just use good oil and don't do it every 12k.
The "F" series bmws are generally soft. Newer yes, but the steering/chassis really does feel like **** compared to the older ones.
N55 is a pretty good motor; other than the bolt on parts that fail the rod bearings have been known to go. Just use good oil and don't do it every 12k.
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04-27-2020, 10:49 AM
#26
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The shop I work at does a huge number of BMWs, and we haven't seen the bearing issues the same as the older S motors. But if there's an upgrade available for BMW rod bearings, it's generally not a bad idea.
The F chassis is a step down from the e90s in my opinion, but still a good car. I think the e90 was just too expensive to build, lasted too long. Doesn't benefit them to make it like that.
The F chassis is a step down from the e90s in my opinion, but still a good car. I think the e90 was just too expensive to build, lasted too long. Doesn't benefit them to make it like that.
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04-27-2020, 11:50 AM
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I run a automotive AC shop that does other work as well.
My late model German car customers have the largest bills.
If you remove the valve cover you should replace it (integral PCV valve). $500.00 for part.
Direct injection will cause early intake valve failures (on everything). Mercedes and Ford have added additional port injectors to stop this crap. Everyone else will follow.
I advise my customers to be OUT of the cars before 10 years/150K miles.
Best way to own a late model BMW is to lease a brand new one every 3-5 years. It's what BMW wants.
All service HAS to be done at Dealership for first 50K (or warranty void) and the service is free but oil change intervals are 17K miles. This reduces BMW's "nut" to 2 oil changes before 50K and pre-conditions the engine to early failure.
BMW states the transmission oil is "lifetime". They want the car in the junkyard by 150K...
Only semi inexpensive way to own one of these is to be able to do ALL of the work yourself which you might be able to do.
Parts average 3 times the cost of Japanese stuff.
I DO NOT suggest 100K BMWs to anyone.
BMW got "Bangle-ized" in early 2000s and it killed the cars.
Most have SRS explosives on the negative battery cable which causes no-starts when it fails.
Have you ever purchased a $500.00 battery cable? You might get too. If you just replace with normal it freaks the car out and you have dash full of warning lights.
Clutches will take 2K worth of parts before labor. You can buy twin disc stuff for a Miata for this amount.
If you go single mass flywheel the NVH will go way up.
Any aluminum bolt you remove from the magnesium block has to be replaced as it WILL break if reused.
The bolts are not expensive but if you're 50 miles away from the dealership (I am) it's a PIA to get them.
The electric water pumps suck big time.
Cooling system life is 100K. Hoses can be $100 plus each and there are a bunch of them.
The cars got far too complicated after 2000. Sometimes you need to be an electrical engineer to figure out the electrical gremilins.
You have to "register" a new battery with the ECU as it charges old batteries differently than new. No body else does this...
Early BMWs (pre 2000) were sports cars. Later ones are luxury grand touring cars (think Bentley).
I am a BMW enthusiast. I own a 1998 E36 M3 (133K miles)
My parents own a 07 X3 and an 08 328ic and they are maintenance hogs. They average 2-5k miles a year on them and they are in the shop every 3 months.
Both cars have less than 80K on them.
Drive an Acura TL (a normal 2wd automatic will allow you to tell if you like it) before going German. You can't see the horrid styling once you're in it and it feels more "German" than "Japanese".
The TL (without VCM) has a 20 year 300k service life.
An old Mazdaspeed 6 is a far better choice (even with it's problems) than a late model Bimmer.
There are a couple of 100K mile ones on Autotrader that might be players.
Sorry for the long post, You and your wife are cool and deserve to hear the truth about late model German stuff before you purchase from someone who works on them...
Before I die I will own an E24 M6 and an E39 M5.
Early cars are way cool, late stuff is trash.
My late model German car customers have the largest bills.
If you remove the valve cover you should replace it (integral PCV valve). $500.00 for part.
Direct injection will cause early intake valve failures (on everything). Mercedes and Ford have added additional port injectors to stop this crap. Everyone else will follow.
I advise my customers to be OUT of the cars before 10 years/150K miles.
Best way to own a late model BMW is to lease a brand new one every 3-5 years. It's what BMW wants.
All service HAS to be done at Dealership for first 50K (or warranty void) and the service is free but oil change intervals are 17K miles. This reduces BMW's "nut" to 2 oil changes before 50K and pre-conditions the engine to early failure.
BMW states the transmission oil is "lifetime". They want the car in the junkyard by 150K...
Only semi inexpensive way to own one of these is to be able to do ALL of the work yourself which you might be able to do.
Parts average 3 times the cost of Japanese stuff.
I DO NOT suggest 100K BMWs to anyone.
BMW got "Bangle-ized" in early 2000s and it killed the cars.
Most have SRS explosives on the negative battery cable which causes no-starts when it fails.
Have you ever purchased a $500.00 battery cable? You might get too. If you just replace with normal it freaks the car out and you have dash full of warning lights.
Clutches will take 2K worth of parts before labor. You can buy twin disc stuff for a Miata for this amount.
If you go single mass flywheel the NVH will go way up.
Any aluminum bolt you remove from the magnesium block has to be replaced as it WILL break if reused.
The bolts are not expensive but if you're 50 miles away from the dealership (I am) it's a PIA to get them.
The electric water pumps suck big time.
Cooling system life is 100K. Hoses can be $100 plus each and there are a bunch of them.
The cars got far too complicated after 2000. Sometimes you need to be an electrical engineer to figure out the electrical gremilins.
You have to "register" a new battery with the ECU as it charges old batteries differently than new. No body else does this...
Early BMWs (pre 2000) were sports cars. Later ones are luxury grand touring cars (think Bentley).
I am a BMW enthusiast. I own a 1998 E36 M3 (133K miles)
My parents own a 07 X3 and an 08 328ic and they are maintenance hogs. They average 2-5k miles a year on them and they are in the shop every 3 months.
Both cars have less than 80K on them.
Drive an Acura TL (a normal 2wd automatic will allow you to tell if you like it) before going German. You can't see the horrid styling once you're in it and it feels more "German" than "Japanese".
The TL (without VCM) has a 20 year 300k service life.
An old Mazdaspeed 6 is a far better choice (even with it's problems) than a late model Bimmer.
There are a couple of 100K mile ones on Autotrader that might be players.
Sorry for the long post, You and your wife are cool and deserve to hear the truth about late model German stuff before you purchase from someone who works on them...
Before I die I will own an E24 M6 and an E39 M5.
Early cars are way cool, late stuff is trash.
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04-27-2020, 05:02 PM
#28
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^Bro, seriously, you gotta stop beating around the bush... just tell the world what you think and don't sugar coat it.
What you're saying makes a ton of sense just in my couple hours of watching YT videos on how these things work. Plastic water pumps? Fuel pumps that fail internally... by the tens of thousands and they can't figure out a redesign? The leaky gaskets also kill me... same thing with Mercedes, I guess. But with a straight-6, you'd think there would be more room to work under there.
Looks like buying a used BMW, should just suck up a $2k bill right off the bat, and do all that **** at once and be done with it... all the seals, HPFP, bigger intercooler, hoses, BOV, charge pipe, etc... be done with it for 100k. Still, if the idea is engineered obsolescence, I'm not a fan. Too bad Toyota never made anything like what I'm looking for.
What you're saying makes a ton of sense just in my couple hours of watching YT videos on how these things work. Plastic water pumps? Fuel pumps that fail internally... by the tens of thousands and they can't figure out a redesign? The leaky gaskets also kill me... same thing with Mercedes, I guess. But with a straight-6, you'd think there would be more room to work under there.
Looks like buying a used BMW, should just suck up a $2k bill right off the bat, and do all that **** at once and be done with it... all the seals, HPFP, bigger intercooler, hoses, BOV, charge pipe, etc... be done with it for 100k. Still, if the idea is engineered obsolescence, I'm not a fan. Too bad Toyota never made anything like what I'm looking for.
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04-27-2020, 05:51 PM
#30
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Interesting, for some reason, Lexus and Infinity always escape me. Google'ing revealed older IS300's can be found with manuals as well, but not with AWD, and tougher to find unmolested than MS6's... looks like 2JZ swaps and severe ricing are very popular.
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04-27-2020, 11:09 PM
#31
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Toyotas are my first suggestion. Lexus, Scion and Toyota are the same beast.
Infinity is Nissan and I no longer recommend Nissan at all. Renault has destroyed them as a car builder.
I am a Z car fanatic (70-78) and have owned multiple early Zs
The Lexus RX350 once won the "most reliable car in production" award according to wiki. It is the ONLY luxury car to ever do so.
If the RX is too big or SUV like the Toyota version was called the Venza. Used Venzas are hard to find because the owners refuse to sell them.
Both are available in FWD or AWD but only automatics which live forever.
The Lexus IS platform at one time had the straight six with a manual RWD. I am not aware of a AWD. If you find a clean RWD manual it will double in value in the next 5 years. Wagons are the most valuable.
Same way with the SC300s that were manual. The SC300s had all the Supra stuff except the turbos and the hottest NA 6 cylinders.
I've recently seen a late model IS wagon that was hybrid and manual. It used Prius drive gear. The owner loved it, got 45+ mpg and had over 200K on it. It was FWD sadly.
Priuses are unbreakable.
Only problem with Toyota is they are boring....
Toyota mimics Mercedes and drives like them. Super comfortable isolation from the road. Never gets flustered or excited.
Throttles respond slowly. They don't make you want to drive them hard like a Miata or a M3 does.
They lack "soul". It's like driving a car that is on Quaaludes. They never "talk back" at you.
If all cars were as reliable as Toyotas there would be 50% fewer repair shops.
When I talk a customer into a Toyota I lose income.
They usually feed me their friends...
If she will live with simple manual that does not have to be AWD and it's going to be an "appliance" car, a daily, then look to a manual Accord.
Manual hurts the value of this car and you might find a good deal. They are semi-rare and seldom riced. If you get a V6 put a VCM muzzler on it to kill VCM (and the VCM cars do NOT have VTECH at all)
I like the 4 cyl K24 powered Accords best. They are the least expensive and the K24 is nearly un-breakable. No VCM, no timing belt, has VTEC, simple to work on, parts are CHEAP.
The SE models had the high end interior and gadgets on the 4cyl platform. Finding a SE manual might be difficult.
When she is done with it you can steal the engine for a Miata...
A manual Accord is much more "lively" than you might imagine. It also has a 300K+ life expectancy.
That AWD Acura TL I mentioned has a baby NSX motor in it.
It's a stroked V6 with killer heads and intake.
They had a style update in 12 that made them look a tiny bit better.
I want to swap that entire drivetrain into a 2nd Gen Odyssey minivan, reduce compression, add a couple of BW turbos, and go hunt new Vetts...
I'm waiting for a hail damaged one.
Yes, I have it BAD.
I have been told that I am "as diplomatic as a sawed off double barrel" before.
I've really enjoyed reading your threads about Hawaii and your posts in the gun threads.
Having a wife that says "manual only" is priceless.
Good luck in your search.
Rick
Infinity is Nissan and I no longer recommend Nissan at all. Renault has destroyed them as a car builder.
I am a Z car fanatic (70-78) and have owned multiple early Zs
The Lexus RX350 once won the "most reliable car in production" award according to wiki. It is the ONLY luxury car to ever do so.
If the RX is too big or SUV like the Toyota version was called the Venza. Used Venzas are hard to find because the owners refuse to sell them.
Both are available in FWD or AWD but only automatics which live forever.
The Lexus IS platform at one time had the straight six with a manual RWD. I am not aware of a AWD. If you find a clean RWD manual it will double in value in the next 5 years. Wagons are the most valuable.
Same way with the SC300s that were manual. The SC300s had all the Supra stuff except the turbos and the hottest NA 6 cylinders.
I've recently seen a late model IS wagon that was hybrid and manual. It used Prius drive gear. The owner loved it, got 45+ mpg and had over 200K on it. It was FWD sadly.
Priuses are unbreakable.
Only problem with Toyota is they are boring....
Toyota mimics Mercedes and drives like them. Super comfortable isolation from the road. Never gets flustered or excited.
Throttles respond slowly. They don't make you want to drive them hard like a Miata or a M3 does.
They lack "soul". It's like driving a car that is on Quaaludes. They never "talk back" at you.
If all cars were as reliable as Toyotas there would be 50% fewer repair shops.
When I talk a customer into a Toyota I lose income.
They usually feed me their friends...
If she will live with simple manual that does not have to be AWD and it's going to be an "appliance" car, a daily, then look to a manual Accord.
Manual hurts the value of this car and you might find a good deal. They are semi-rare and seldom riced. If you get a V6 put a VCM muzzler on it to kill VCM (and the VCM cars do NOT have VTECH at all)
I like the 4 cyl K24 powered Accords best. They are the least expensive and the K24 is nearly un-breakable. No VCM, no timing belt, has VTEC, simple to work on, parts are CHEAP.
The SE models had the high end interior and gadgets on the 4cyl platform. Finding a SE manual might be difficult.
When she is done with it you can steal the engine for a Miata...
A manual Accord is much more "lively" than you might imagine. It also has a 300K+ life expectancy.
That AWD Acura TL I mentioned has a baby NSX motor in it.
It's a stroked V6 with killer heads and intake.
They had a style update in 12 that made them look a tiny bit better.
I want to swap that entire drivetrain into a 2nd Gen Odyssey minivan, reduce compression, add a couple of BW turbos, and go hunt new Vetts...
I'm waiting for a hail damaged one.
Yes, I have it BAD.
I have been told that I am "as diplomatic as a sawed off double barrel" before.
I've really enjoyed reading your threads about Hawaii and your posts in the gun threads.
Having a wife that says "manual only" is priceless.
Good luck in your search.
Rick
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04-28-2020, 02:19 AM
#32
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Thanks for the compliments and the thorough info. I should say that she definitely wants some power behind the gas pedal. She hasn't been a big fan of FWD since her 2000 Celica... she was keenly aware of the disadvantage of an open dif and FWD. We had the Speed6 for 10 years and 80k or so absurdly trouble-free miles until the engine blew... I saw it coming in the weeks previous to the incident, should have had it looked at, just plain dumb.
The IS300 ticks all the boxes but I just don't think is gonna be fast enough for her... the Speed6 had 60+ more hp and 100ftlbs more torque. The IS300 with a legit 2JZ-GTE that didn't look like an F&F poster sounds like what I would drive.
Local buddy here on base has an '05'ish V6 manual Accord sedan... I should go drive it.
The IS300 ticks all the boxes but I just don't think is gonna be fast enough for her... the Speed6 had 60+ more hp and 100ftlbs more torque. The IS300 with a legit 2JZ-GTE that didn't look like an F&F poster sounds like what I would drive.
Local buddy here on base has an '05'ish V6 manual Accord sedan... I should go drive it.
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04-28-2020, 07:51 AM
#33
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I'm going to violate the rules of this discussion by posting something that doesn't fit your outline. I'm not sure how big your kids are but it does have back seats and I have been in one and I'm 6'1". 278hp, manual 6 speed, RWD. MWFSA (Make Wife Feel Sexy Again) https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=548713742&referrer= %2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3FsortBy%3Dderivedprice ASC%26incremental%3Dall%26firstRecord%3D0%26market Extension%3Dinclude%26modelCodeList%3DA%26makeCode List%3D%26isNewSearch%3Dfalse&numRecords=25&firstR ecord=0&modelCodeList=A&makeCodeList=&clickType=sp otlight
or this
another even sexier choice
I've ridden with Ryan G from this forum in his daily driver and it is very quiet and comfortable. Just throwing it out there. Toyota drivetrain. And he has not spent much of anything on maintenance or repairs. He drove it 10 hours each way to Miatas at the Gap and flogged the **** out of it up there with no issues a year ago. He continues to drive it daily to work.
or this
another even sexier choice
I've ridden with Ryan G from this forum in his daily driver and it is very quiet and comfortable. Just throwing it out there. Toyota drivetrain. And he has not spent much of anything on maintenance or repairs. He drove it 10 hours each way to Miatas at the Gap and flogged the **** out of it up there with no issues a year ago. He continues to drive it daily to work.
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04-28-2020, 10:03 AM
#34
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Six WINS hands down!
He found a Toyota that IS NOT boring.
His will hold its value forever and probably increase with time.
Only problem is price...
And you would have to fight her to get seat time.
He found a Toyota that IS NOT boring.
His will hold its value forever and probably increase with time.
Only problem is price...
And you would have to fight her to get seat time.
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04-28-2020, 10:16 AM
#35
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I dunno what's "weird" about VWs, but a Jetta GLI fits the bill, although I don't personally know why one would choose the sedan over the hatch.
228hp, limited slip, 6 speed, sedan. Check check check.
The accord is a good option too, with the 2.0T. It doesn't "suck" as you say, and it's actually one of the best looking sedans on sale. 252hp and 273 lb ft of torque, tuneable for more.
228hp, limited slip, 6 speed, sedan. Check check check.
The accord is a good option too, with the 2.0T. It doesn't "suck" as you say, and it's actually one of the best looking sedans on sale. 252hp and 273 lb ft of torque, tuneable for more.
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04-28-2020, 12:06 PM
#36
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You can buy a G6 in manual. 220hp v6 wrong wheel drive.
That is, if you don't want to spend any money.
Another decent option is a Buick Regal GS. 4 cylinder turbo, 300+ HP. Wrong wheel drive and a Buick. But can be had for pretty cheap. I was going to buy one as a daily until I bought another boat.
That is, if you don't want to spend any money.
Another decent option is a Buick Regal GS. 4 cylinder turbo, 300+ HP. Wrong wheel drive and a Buick. But can be had for pretty cheap. I was going to buy one as a daily until I bought another boat.
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04-28-2020, 04:13 PM
#38
Thanks for the compliments and the thorough info. I should say that she definitely wants some power behind the gas pedal. She hasn't been a big fan of FWD since her 2000 Celica... she was keenly aware of the disadvantage of an open dif and FWD. We had the Speed6 for 10 years and 80k or so absurdly trouble-free miles until the engine blew... I saw it coming in the weeks previous to the incident, should have had it looked at, just plain dumb.
The IS300 ticks all the boxes but I just don't think is gonna be fast enough for her... the Speed6 had 60+ more hp and 100ftlbs more torque. The IS300 with a legit 2JZ-GTE that didn't look like an F&F poster sounds like what I would drive.
Local buddy here on base has an '05'ish V6 manual Accord sedan... I should go drive it.
The IS300 ticks all the boxes but I just don't think is gonna be fast enough for her... the Speed6 had 60+ more hp and 100ftlbs more torque. The IS300 with a legit 2JZ-GTE that didn't look like an F&F poster sounds like what I would drive.
Local buddy here on base has an '05'ish V6 manual Accord sedan... I should go drive it.
You can find an IS250 with a 6 speed, but those motors are DI and they suffer from carbon issues. Also, they're dogshit slow. The IS350 is a vastly different motor, much more reliable, but only available in auto.
Personally I'd take the way way back time machine and find the nicest first gen CTS-V you can afford. They're dead nuts simple to wrench on, just have a healthy consumable budget.
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04-28-2020, 06:08 PM
#39
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No Subies... it's for the wife, 45yrs old, and I insist on pulling my pants up to normal height and don't own any flat-brimmed ballcaps, so can't drive a Subaru anyways, so NO.
Caddy comment was joke. ATS-V's just still too expensive. I've never considered a Cadillac because it's a Cadillac. I have been doing homework on CTS-V though... let's talk about that. I didn't know the CTS-V has been around since 2004. What do I need to know? I see a few first gen's on CL for under $15k... a few with 150k miles around $10k. Selection is pretty limited, not too many on the market. More recent models hold their value extremely well... looks like there's a big price delta between Generations, and low mileage any year commands a premium. Looks like first gen't were a little rough.. clutch, shift linkage... what else? Likely I would never need to mod one, so for that alone, it's on the table.
Caddy comment was joke. ATS-V's just still too expensive. I've never considered a Cadillac because it's a Cadillac. I have been doing homework on CTS-V though... let's talk about that. I didn't know the CTS-V has been around since 2004. What do I need to know? I see a few first gen's on CL for under $15k... a few with 150k miles around $10k. Selection is pretty limited, not too many on the market. More recent models hold their value extremely well... looks like there's a big price delta between Generations, and low mileage any year commands a premium. Looks like first gen't were a little rough.. clutch, shift linkage... what else? Likely I would never need to mod one, so for that alone, it's on the table.
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04-28-2020, 06:35 PM
#40
First gen's had two main issues:
-Fluid filled motor mounts. They will break religiously every 40k or so, resulting in a **** ton of drivetrain slop. There are aftermarket solutions for this.
-Wheel hop. When I owned mine( about a decade ago), no one had found a solution other than "don't launch it hard."
-The first gens all had a T56, and occasionally those could go bad, but it was fairly rare.
The interior was built by Fischer-price, it wasn't competitive when it was brand new and is laughably bad now. Gas mileage was about what you'd expect out of a porky 400hp sedan. I think I averaged around 15mpg. The '06 and '07 models got an LS2 with a displacement bump, so those are a little more desirable, despite the fact that they make the same hp.
-Fluid filled motor mounts. They will break religiously every 40k or so, resulting in a **** ton of drivetrain slop. There are aftermarket solutions for this.
-Wheel hop. When I owned mine( about a decade ago), no one had found a solution other than "don't launch it hard."
-The first gens all had a T56, and occasionally those could go bad, but it was fairly rare.
The interior was built by Fischer-price, it wasn't competitive when it was brand new and is laughably bad now. Gas mileage was about what you'd expect out of a porky 400hp sedan. I think I averaged around 15mpg. The '06 and '07 models got an LS2 with a displacement bump, so those are a little more desirable, despite the fact that they make the same hp.
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