All your Adaptronic boosted NB's are belong to us
well i put the maf right before the turbo, same way the voodoo cars are set up (for now).....but I did not use the primary sensor. I'm guessing thats why the car runs like ****. I'll make another bung and install that as well.
Hoping to get everything sorted out and start tuning off your current map by mid next week
Hoping to get everything sorted out and start tuning off your current map by mid next week
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well i put the maf right before the turbo, same way the voodoo cars are set up (for now).....but I did not use the primary sensor. I'm guessing thats why the car runs like ****. I'll make another bung and install that as well.
Hoping to get everything sorted out and start tuning off your current map by mid next week
Hoping to get everything sorted out and start tuning off your current map by mid next week

I don't know for sure, but I think the primary is the most critical of the O2 sensors, as it adjusts the fuel. The rear one only compares the front to the rear to see if the cat is functioning properly. Someone else that knows for sure can confirm. So yeah, it's going to run like **** as it can't see any fuel in the exhaust so it is dumping in more.
yes I am definitely taking the maf off as soon as the adaptronic is hooked up. and you bring up an excellent point about the o2 sensors. this is probably the biggest reason its running so bad at idle..
A few more threads like this and the decision on which ECU to buy will be really easy. I'm stoked on the price and the list of features is damned extensive.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
This ECU appears to be great. We'll see how they hold up and how they really perform soon.
A few more threads like this and the decision on which ECU to buy will be really easy. I'm stoked on the price and the list of features is damned extensive.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
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iTrader: (46)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
From: Nebraska
A few more threads like this and the decision on which ECU to buy will be really easy. I'm stoked on the price and the list of features is damned extensive.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
Has anybody broken it down and done a side-by-side against MS and Hydra. For the money, where does it stack up? I'm not concerned that it can do sequential injection on an 8cyl engine... but what it directly means to the 99+ Miata owner looking at 300whp.
To me the slower datalogging won't be that big of a deal. Since it does it has effective autotuning the datalog isn't as important because I won't be running the datalog through a Megalogviewer application to tune my fuel maps for me.
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One thing that I did find interesting about the software. The entire ECU file, with all settings is only 8K. One tiny file.
I blocked off the EGR. Just made a plate and removed the tube.
No installation of a check valve - do I need one? Never saw anything about it in the BEGI installation instructions that I used as a guideline.
I had two bungs in the DP and one in the midpipe, so I am using all three. Stock in the top one, WB right before the cat, stock in the midpipe in the stock rear location.
Probably won't idle for **** with no MAP or MAF as it has no idea how much air is there.
No installation of a check valve - do I need one? Never saw anything about it in the BEGI installation instructions that I used as a guideline.
I had two bungs in the DP and one in the midpipe, so I am using all three. Stock in the top one, WB right before the cat, stock in the midpipe in the stock rear location.
Probably won't idle for **** with no MAP or MAF as it has no idea how much air is there.
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