cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I just **** all over my air filter before i take a drive. Smells horrible but works great.


You get a cup of water, doesn't matter what kind. Then pull a vacuum line at your intake manifold and hold the car at like 2k rpm with one hand, while you suck up tiny amounts of water with the vacuum line. You just let it *sip* *sip* *sip* water into the intake. The water breaks up carbon.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Well, I've carb spray to clean them out before on hondas. Warm the car up really good, hold the TB wide open with motor on rev limiter, and empty a can of carb spray through it. Worked well. Of course, 100 shot direct port keeps my miata clean.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure that's what it is. Who wants someone with a broken O2 sensor to call you up whining it doesn't work good?

Obviously if it makes your car run better, you should keep doing it. Expect 15% more HP each time you do it. Apply enough sea-foam and your throttle response will get so good the car will break the tires loose before you even start it. Run it hard on the freeway and it will actually put gasoline back in the tank.

Of course it won't help a car that doesn't have wrong with it whatever it fixes. I know you know that, but it illustrates the point. :-)


Hey! That's worth trying.

Why would you put it in the oil??! Isn't is a solvent? It sure seems to me like it would thin your oil and be really really bad for your bearings.


I've used Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) a few times, with the head off, and been *amazed* at how well it works. Leaves things looking like new. It's almost impossible to describe it. I've been tempted to spray it in sea-foam style but never have.

SamS

iTrader: (2)

It seems you haven't read the can very carefully. You can put it in pretty much any part of your car and it will solve problems you didn't know existed.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

It's still not wise to put it in your oil and drive around. For the same reason you don't put ATF in every oil change and drive with it forever. It's not a lubricant, it's just for cleaning. Run it a short amount of time and get it the hell out.

teknikscian

iTrader: (3)

you dont put it in your oil and drive around. you put it in your oil, just like any engine flush, and let it idle for 5 - 20min and then change the oil.

airbrush1

i'm going to do it on my lesabre beater tomorrow now that I saw this thread.... it could use some help....

Flippy02

don't pour, sip

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I bet one person who read this thread is going to come back posting "SEAFOAM

Torkel

I did it on my -99 when it had 109K miles on it (*sip-sip* into the intake by vacume hose, not in the crank case). It smoked a lot (!!) for a long time... It did a noticable difference in power though, especially over 5K rpm. (at least it felt like it by the scheat of my toyight paannts)

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

They really should write that on the can if this is the case.

Whats in Sea Foam anyway?

I also never heard of running water into the intake, to clean out carbon.

MX5-4me

That's almost as old as the internal combustion engine. it doesn't take much to get the job done.

What we did was put a little water in a refillable spray can and slightly tap the spray while trying to keep the engine at about 2k RPM.

This was on a carbureted car but I don't see how it would be any different lightly spraying it in to your intake with filter removed.

Now all i need is a very tiny dood to keep in my engine bay and i'll have water injection !!!

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

When spraying stuff into the intake, if you get any liquid on the hot-wire flow meter that's stock on the later miatas, it will:
1) Cause the car to suddenly see a massive amount of air incoming (enough to chill the heater down at the rate boiling liquid takes heat), making it stall or want to stall
2) Leave deposits on said meter, partially shorting it, and making you stall and get bad mileage for a week till you try to clean it with a q-tip, break it off, and have to order another one to the tune of $600, and even after you manage to get a salvage one from Flyin' Miata, it'll still be a waste of $100 because you'll get a MS a month later.

I mean, I imagine it could happen that way. :-) The point is, try to miss the sensor - I doubt water is as bad as oil.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Who wants the MSDS????
http://www.wd-wpp.com/msds2/0000103d.pdf
Pale oil 40-60%
Naptha 25-35%
IPA (isopropyl alcohol) 10-20%

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

aren't you introducing water into the intake after the afm or maf anyway?

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

If you have a MAP sensor running your engine you can, but if you try taking off a vac line with either of the two above then you got a problem.

Lol.

Nothing there that can affect oil to my knowledge, I have no idea if these ingredients even warrant an oil change. Other then the oil the rest of the stuff probably burns away.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Into the intake manifold directly.

Best way to deal with that is put your finger over the hose when you're not sucking water. It's not a big deal. Specially when holding the throttle open.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Not a HUGE problem. Just be aware it'll take some throttle management to keep it running. That's all. I mean, you're not driving around like this.

TonyC

as per above poster, use an intake port + hose from the intake manifold and bypass the hotwire mass air hotwire...

non-issue even in later cars.

i'm nearing 100K mi. at the next oil change it'll be a flush/fill:

a. seafoam
b. atf + heavy oil idling flush
c. changing to 10w40

hopefully the 10w40 won't decrease my mileage... the HLA noise is really kickin' in when the car gets hot now...

teknikscian

iTrader: (3)

per wiki...

Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component via the catalytic reforming process. Naphtha is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications.....why seafoam is good for the crankcase..


Isopropanol is a major ingredient in "dry-gas" fuel additive. In significant quantities, water is a problem in fuel tanks as it separates from the gasoline and can freeze in the supply lines at cold temperatures. The isopropanol does not remove the water from the gasoline. Rather, the isopropanol solubilizes the water in the gasoline. Once soluble, the water does not pose the same risk as insoluble water as it will no longer accumulate in the supply lines and freeze....why its good to use in your gas tank...