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Kids and I working on a Star Wars chess set... R2D2 pawns all done... working on Chewie bishops.
Will detail and paint too. Also need to weight them. I'm thinking of drilling through the bottoms and inserting a lead fishing bullet-weight and securing with hot-glue.
Kids and I working on a Star Wars chess set... R2D2 pawns all done... working on Chewie bishops.
Will detail and paint too. Also need to weight them. I'm thinking of drilling through the bottoms and inserting a lead fishing bullet-weight and securing with hot-glue.
You didn't say what you were making them out of but be aware that a big glob of hot glue will melt PLA. I found this out first hand when I made some replacement hinges for my favorite set of sockets. I found it too hard to get them exact so I thought the glue would help "fill the spaces". Instead, it just melted the hinges so they fit perfectly.
Kids and I working on a Star Wars chess set... R2D2 pawns all done... working on Chewie bishops.
Will detail and paint too. Also need to weight them. I'm thinking of drilling through the bottoms and inserting a lead fishing bullet-weight and securing with hot-glue.
Not helpful now but I've heard of people pausing prints and adding weight/epoxy into the infill to boost the weight.
Not helpful now but I've heard of people pausing prints and adding weight/epoxy into the infill to boost the weight.
There was some sort of print I did that needed a nut placed like that. I tried several times but was not able to get it to work. Can't remember what actually happened. I had printed stuff before that required pausing to swap filament, the three color sign in the back of my cabinet is an example:
I am having loads of fun making stuff with my printer. If anyone is on the fence about buying one, just do it! For less than 300 bucks you can make all sorts of (mostly) worthless ****, and a few useful things besides.
In the middle of a 26 hour print right now, and the next one is going to be 40+ hours. Can't get enough of this thing.
This thing has been rock solid but I recently added an enclosure to be able to print ASA. Being able to smooth parts post print with acetone is a gamechanger. I also have a Hemera extruder on the way so I can print flexibles better. I already can, just veeeery slowly
My modified Anet A8 is acting up so I purchased an Elegoo Neptune 2 last night from Amazon for $180. Great printer (from the reviews) at a great price. Interesting to see what $180 gets you now vs three years ago. I'll probably fix the Anet and give it to the neighbors kids.
How do you know you are getting close to the front page? I don't have more than 700 downloads on any one of my designs so I think the front page is safe from me.
How do you know you are getting close to the front page? I don't have more than 700 downloads on any one of my designs so I think the front page is safe from me.
The front page is criteria is simply the most likes within the last 30 days. after 30 days it falls off to keep the site content in rotation.
And I support the decision to give the anet to the kids in the neighbourhood. I already have the next owner of my Mega X lined up once I decide I'll go for the Voron 2.4 But current budget is miata targeted so Voron will have to wait a bit
I've been contemplating buying a 3D printer, maybe splitting one with my brother. He's currently looking at getting into a job with 3D CAD, just turned one down that was going to help him get up to speed on the software. Anyway, I downloaded a few programs and didn't get very far loading and looking into how to modify the air scoop in the link below. I was going to see about straightening the overly curved vanes out and maybe scaling it larger. I read reports of how small it was as well as air being directed too far to the sides.
Soon I will be needing a set of MS3 mounting brackets. The Singular Motorsports metal bracket is out of stock and who knows if/when I'll get an email so I started looking locally to find a print shop. Only the link mentions using PLA or PLA+. Doesn't a closed car on 90-100F sunny days get too hot for PLA? Would ABS be better? I searched earlier this year but feel like I forgot more than I learned! I guess I would be better off uploading files for some local quotes as I don't really have time to learn 3D CAD software.
You'd have way more success just drawing it up yourself rather than trying to modify this one. It's a simple part and can be drawn up with just a couple of dimensions
I've got a highly modified CR-10, which is now more like a CR-10S with direct drive. The newest, bestest model that has everything and prints perfectly out of the box seems to be the Artillery. It's a CR-10S copy, with all the upgrades already done to it.
Not sure about any of the other machines now, but auto-levelling is something I don't have, and something I'd like very much. Direct drive, failure recovery, runout sensor, smaller footprint than CR-10S, Dual Z, AC heated bed....it all adds up.
Just picked up a TwoTrees Tornado V2, which is a Tevo Tornado V2 but not made by Tevo, which itself is a CR10 clone for $200 with a looot of upgrades. Makerbase robin nano v2 board (stm32f103), color touch screen, 2208 steppers, mk8 clone hotend, bmg clone extruder, 24v, ac heated bed. My last printer was a kickstarter backed printrbot which was a paltry 150x150x100 bed, 300x300x400 is a gamechanger. I was also looking at the new elegoo neptune x, which is an upgraded ender5 clone, but only 220x220x300. One day a large format corexy.. one day..
Overally, extremely impressed with both how far tech has come since I last did printing (back in 2014). TwoTrees support is pretty much nonexistant - they don't even acknowledge the printer on their website - but marlin was simple enough (for me) to get a BLtouch clone installed and a springsteel print surface with octopi. Still learning the new toolchain and doing the requisite print parts to upgrade your printer sisyphean tasks with an 8 year old spool of ABS.
Originally Posted by cordycord
I've got a highly modified CR-10, which is now more like a CR-10S with direct drive. The newest, bestest model that has everything and prints perfectly out of the box seems to be the Artillery. It's a CR-10S copy, with all the upgrades already done to it.
Not sure about any of the other machines now, but auto-levelling is something I don't have, and something I'd like very much. Direct drive, failure recovery, runout sensor, smaller footprint than CR-10S, Dual Z, AC heated bed....it all adds up.
If you ever wondered how to wire up two retro toggle switches in order to relocate your windows, this is the shortest, most informative video I've seen:
01-24-2021, 10:04 PM
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