Well, I went to put in my SR T25 today and had to clock it. Call me stupid but I thought all you had to do was remove the 4 bolts on the exhaust housing and the center part rotates. Cause thats what I did and there was no rotating going on. I soaked the bitch in PB Blaster and busted out Mr. Hammer and even he couldnt get it to move. All the bolts are loose so what the **** am I missing? This really messed my day up. Oh well, its St. Drinking Day so off to do that whole thing.

 

Get a bigger hammer.
Seriously though it should turn, loosening those bolts will allow the center section to turn, not the compressor side. I haven't had any stick real bad. Though when tearing down my SR20 T25 i clamped the turbine housing in a vise and turned the bearing housing with a big pair of channel locks.

 

That should work the same way for a GT2554r?

 

Don't see why not. It depends on how the bearing housing is held to the turbine housing. Either way you just lossen up the fastening device that holds them together, turn it, tighten it back up.

 

awesome.

 

I called up Corky at Bell because my T25 would not move and I thought I was beating the hell out of it. He said to soak it with WD40,PB blaster, Liquid wrench for a few days then beat it harder. Came loose but I thought I was going to break it. It is not a natural thing to beat on a turbo.

 

Use a dead-blow hammer or a lead hammer if you're real worried about hurting something. Don't break the compressor housing if that's what you're beating on.

 

Yes, soak in PB Blaster for a day. Then put the turbo in the freezer overnight. The following morning, hit the opposite side of the housing with a torch... trying to keep the CHRA cool. Get the housing hot and the metal will expand... it'll come off with a nice smack with a rubber mallet. DON'T USE A HAMMER ON THE CHRA!!! Only use the hammer on the housing. I ruined my first turbo with the "just hit it harder" method.

 

That sucks. Do you think that was part of the reason behind your seals leaking?

 

I'd go with maybe?

So if its stuck, we can beat the exhaust housing only?

 

No, No, NO!!! My FIRST turbo was ruined. My next four were the ones that didn't work out.

I would clamp the CHRA in a vice, torch the housing, and hit the housing.

 

yeah it took a torch to rotate Brad's CHRA from the turbine.

 

Liar! It took a torch to remove the bolts... and a torch to rotate it.. and I wont be surprised if I have to again.

 

Yep, 5 mins with a torch and she finally rotated the 20* I needed!

I was hitting it like a girl before that, cause i didn't want to break anything! :gay:

By the way, what does CHRA stand for?

60AGS

 

center housing rotating assembly

 

Good **** guys. Thanks. What did you use for a wastegate?

 

The wastegate is internal to the turbine housing. Did you mean wastegate actuator? If so:

1st post, #4. I live near Wesleyan College. $30. You'll need to drill/tap new holes on the back of the compressor housing. The rod itself needs a little more of a bend... you'll need a vice to hold it while you heat/bend it. I have the tap and die, vice, torch. Let me know.

 

Ya, I ment actuator. I've got 4 of them laying around all from various turbo's but thanks for the offer. I do have one off of a DSM T25. You think that one works the best?

 

so to clock it, you don't have to take the four bolts out of the CHRA, you just can loosen them?

 

^ Yes, loosen them like a turn or two, should rotate freely.