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Old 09-30-2012, 06:53 PM   #61
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. That's about the limit of my fabrication skills in this regard. The thought of driving around in a chassis that I built myself terrifies me.
I smell modesty in this post.

Based on your posts, I wont have a problem driving anything you built with your hands.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:26 PM   #62
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I now own a TIG welder and have measured my garage. With a bit of cleaning and rearranging I think I could have the room to build something. So I think over winter I learn to weld well enough to attempt to assemble a frame. This also gives me time to gather all the tools I will need to build a locost and continue research on the exact design I want to go with. Then hopefully sometime in the spring I could attempt to start a build.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:09 PM   #63
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This also gives me time to gather all the tools I will need to build a locost and continue research on the exact design I want to go with. Then hopefully sometime in the spring I could attempt to start a build.
If you haven't already, join the LocostUSA.com forum. Lots of information and helpful people over there.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:41 AM   #64
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I now own a TIG welder and have measured my garage. With a bit of cleaning and rearranging I think I could have the room to build something. So I think over winter I learn to weld well enough to attempt to assemble a frame. This also gives me time to gather all the tools I will need to build a locost and continue research on the exact design I want to go with. Then hopefully sometime in the spring I could attempt to start a build.
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If you haven't already, join the LocostUSA.com forum. Lots of information and helpful people over there.
You can go read my build thread there. I think my half-completed project is on owner 3 or 4 now...

Not to dissuade you or anything.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:41 AM   #65
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If you haven't already, join the LocostUSA.com forum. Lots of information and helpful people over there.
Been reading there on and off for a bit. I guess it is time to join and actually start doing serious research.

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You can go read my build thread there. I think my half-completed project is on owner 3 or 4 now...

Not to dissuade you or anything.
Shut your dirty pie hole and stop being a negatron. We only allow Optimist Primes up in this thread.

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Old 11-12-2012, 10:02 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
I now own a TIG welder and have measured my garage. With a bit of cleaning and rearranging I think I could have the room to build something. So I think over winter I learn to weld well enough to attempt to assemble a frame. This also gives me time to gather all the tools I will need to build a locost and continue research on the exact design I want to go with. Then hopefully sometime in the spring I could attempt to start a build.
My two cents:

Build turbo manifolds which are easier. Sell enough manifolds to buy a frame. I've sold enough manifolds/downpipes/turbos over the last 3 years to buy one of these kits.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #67
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My two cents:

Build turbo manifolds which are easier. Sell enough manifolds to buy a frame. I've sold enough manifolds/downpipes/turbos over the last 3 years to buy one of these kits.
Don't worry there will be some of my manifolds out in the wild next year.

I will be signing up for a tig welding class at my local community college tomorrow. It is a month long class in January and February. Hopefully after then I will have enough knowledge and skill to weld decently.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:12 PM   #68
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I took a welding class at the local tech school a few Summers ago. For $400 I had as much seat time and materials as I could possibly consume, two days a week, all Summer long. I learned more in that Summer than I did in the ~6 years of semi regular playing with a TIG machine that i did before that. Worth every penny.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:17 PM   #69
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I am officially signed up for the Tig class at my local CC. I will be getting proper lessons starting in January.

This past Saturday I finally got the outlet installed for the welder. I also spent most of the weekend cleaning my garage.

I can now fit a miata in easily so I should have more then enough room for a 7 frame.



Also how does these tungston tips look? Are they sharp enough?
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:29 PM   #70
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Also how does these tungston tips look? Are they sharp enough?
They look sharp enough (I assume you're welding steel of some kind), but they also look like you held the tungsten almost parallel to the rotation of the grinder when you sharpened them.

I've was taught to hold the tungsten perpendicular to the rotation and spin the tungsten in your fingers as you grind it. This makes it so the tiny grooves left by he grinder on the sharpened part will all converge at the point rather than be concentric rings around the cone. This should give you a better arc pattern.

Last edited by gesso; 11-20-2012 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Brevity
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:58 PM   #71
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Nice job on the garage! Invest in a larger vice though like this one.
You want the head to rotate. When I have to weld at my dads shop with his fixed vice like yours, it is a royal pain in the ***.


Those electrodes look fat. I use .062, those look to be fatter. I do not have good luck with fat electrodes on anything that is the thickness of what you will be welding. On the max current my tig puts out .062 is fine. Fatter makes the arc harder to handle for me but I have never taken a class. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:07 PM   #72
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And the red electrodes are nnnnice but radioactive slightly. I now use gold/lanthanted on steels with a needle tip and reds on alum with a rounded nose. I never had any luck with greens on aluminum.
But on a month you will have the instruction you want and teach me how to do it right!
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:11 PM   #73
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And what gesso said is right. I cannot see the grooves on my phone but yeah. Make them in line with the electrodes length. I also taper mine a little more than you on a shallower angle.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:08 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by gesso View Post
They look sharp enough (I assume you're welding steel of some kind), but they also look like you held the tungsten almost parallel to the rotation of the grinder when you sharpened them.

I've was taught to hold the tungsten perpendicular to the rotation and spin the tungsten in your fingers as you grind it. This makes it so the tiny grooves left by he grinder on the sharpened part will all converge at the point rather than be concentric rings around the cone. This should give you a better arc pattern.
This was how I ground the tips. It was the first time I have ever done it so I just went with what seemed easiest.



You are saying I should grind them this way correct? I will regrind them then tomorrow before I start on my first welds.




Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Nice job on the garage! Invest in a larger vice though like this one.
You want the head to rotate. When I have to weld at my dads shop with his fixed vice like yours, it is a royal pain in the ***.


Those electrodes look fat. I use .062, those look to be fatter. I do not have good luck with fat electrodes on anything that is the thickness of what you will be welding. On the max current my tig puts out .062 is fine. Fatter makes the arc harder to handle for me but I have never taken a class. Just my 2 cents.

And the red electrodes are nnnnice but radioactive slightly. I now use gold/lanthanted on steels with a needle tip and reds on alum with a rounded nose. I never had any luck with greens on aluminum.
But on a month you will have the instruction you want and teach me how to do it right!
A bigger better vice is on my to buy list. It falls after some sort of saw to cut metal with and shelves.

Those are the electrodes that I have and planned on using for steal. I will start looking online for some gold ones in .062. Are
these these
the correct ones? I am sad that they are not prime items. Also if I switch to 1/16 electrodes do I need 1/16 collet and collet body?
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Couple of Locost 7 craigslist ads...-img_20121120_214632.jpg   Couple of Locost 7 craigslist ads...-img_20121120_214639.jpg  

Last edited by shuiend; 11-20-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:38 PM   #75
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This was how I ground the tips. It was the first time I have ever done it so I just went with what seemed easiest.
[IMG]parallel picture/IMG]

You are saying I should grind them this way correct? I will regrind them then tomorrow before I start on my first welds.
[IMG] perpendicular picture[/IMG]
Yep, just like in the second picture. Make sure you move the electrode back and forth across the face of the grinding wheel as it is very easy to make a groove in the wheel. Also, I generally sharpen the non-colored end, so as to make it easier to identify whats what later.

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Also if I switch to 1/16 electrodes do I need 1/16 collet and collet body?
Yes.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:47 PM   #76
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Yep, just like in the second picture. Make sure you move the electrode back and forth across the face of the grinding wheel as it is very easy to make a groove in the wheel. Also, I generally sharpen the non-colored end, so as to make it easier to identify whats what later.

Yes.
I will head up to the local welding shop tomorrow and see if they have any 1/16 electrodes in gold and the proper collets. Do I need any other parts of the tig torch besides the proper collets?
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:25 AM   #77
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Do I need any other parts of the tig torch besides the proper collets?
Collet bodies too. It would be best if you brought your old collet body with you to compare, as there are different styles (different threads and lengths).
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:14 AM   #78
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180 deg from the second pic. Otherwise your electrode will end up inside your arm.

Gas lens collets/ kits work better. Or just start with what you already have. 10 electrodes should last you a while.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:29 AM   #79
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180 deg from the second pic. Otherwise your electrode will end up inside your arm.
I've always done it the way he has shown and while I might be asking to get an injection of tungsten, it's hasn't happened...yet.

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Gas lens collets/ kits work better.
^^ this, though for mild steel and aluminum its doesn't matter too much. For Stainless and Ti, a gas lens collet is a must in my book.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:48 PM   #80
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I've always ground my tungsten like the pic. I also like a little thorium dust in my eyes once in a while, so my opinion is of limited value here.
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