View Poll Results: Do we need a Subaru Subforum?
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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
Someone must have left the company. Did you check NABISCO to see if they announced anything? The composite TGVs are better than the GrimmSpeed ones anyways, I have the grimmspeed ones.
I wouldn't even bother with pnp manifolds tbh. Sure its better than stock, but stock is garbage design anyway, so either pony up for a proper (read: not junk like most) ELH or just leave it as is. Only thing I'd replace is the up pipe cause that's a problem waiting to happen for your EJ20
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,477
Total Cats: 1,924
From: Very NorCal

(Speaking of... if someone has a clean used aftermarket up pipe that will fit an 04 WRX sitting in their hoard of subbie parts, feel free to shoot me a PM)
Its a DD and honestly I just need to leave it alone. I've got probably 300+hp worth of Miata parts in the garage that needs my time far more than the Subaru does right now.

and

My girlfriend(keeper for sure) and I pulled it from an 03 XS at pick n pull this afternoon. Way way way way easier than a Miata. There was no marking on the car as to what the mileage was and the body was a bit messed up but not bad enough that I can be confident an accident is why it was "wrecked". I'm waiting on a coworker to pull the carfax for me to be sure.
I'm half temped to change the valve cover gaskets and throw it in, but if the carfax comes back clean, then I'll have to suspect head gasket or bearings

Priced out gaskets/head bolts/timing kit/water pump/coolant hoses and it came to $500. Not bad, but at that point I almost feel like I should just split the case and finish the job completely for a few hundred more.
It's been a really busy couple of weeks at work prepping for a demo. Presented the demo yesterday and it went well so I took a half day and did this:

3 hours from "running" car to motor out. The experiance from the pick n pull motor was helpful, but this is still way easier than a miata even when you can't just cut wires and hoses.

3 hours from "running" car to motor out. The experiance from the pick n pull motor was helpful, but this is still way easier than a miata even when you can't just cut wires and hoses.
The BRZ will be getting the E85 flash once this tank is nearly empty.
Be curious to see the improvement, apparently these cars are very knock sensitive due to the CR, so E85 makes a big improvement.
Be curious to see the improvement, apparently these cars are very knock sensitive due to the CR, so E85 makes a big improvement.
The only reason it already has a tune is because I had the OFT left over from trading in the NC.
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
HALP!!!
was driving to work this morning, and a few miles from work i went to pass someone on the freeway and the car starting missing bad under load. light throttle and low boost it seems to run fine, but as soon as you get on it a little, or anything close to WOT, as soon as it gets on boost it misses and cuts out really bad. my only thought is i have a boost leak somewhere, im going to go look at lunch to see if i can find something obvious. no codes, or other indications of something wrong. 05 LGT with cobb 3" catted DP and stg 2 cobb OTS, otherwise stock powertrain. any other ideas or common issues?
i only ask here because LGT.com reminds me of CR, and you guys are sooo smart.
was driving to work this morning, and a few miles from work i went to pass someone on the freeway and the car starting missing bad under load. light throttle and low boost it seems to run fine, but as soon as you get on it a little, or anything close to WOT, as soon as it gets on boost it misses and cuts out really bad. my only thought is i have a boost leak somewhere, im going to go look at lunch to see if i can find something obvious. no codes, or other indications of something wrong. 05 LGT with cobb 3" catted DP and stg 2 cobb OTS, otherwise stock powertrain. any other ideas or common issues?
i only ask here because LGT.com reminds me of CR, and you guys are sooo smart.
HALP!!!
was driving to work this morning, and a few miles from work i went to pass someone on the freeway and the car starting missing bad under load. light throttle and low boost it seems to run fine, but as soon as you get on it a little, or anything close to WOT, as soon as it gets on boost it misses and cuts out really bad. my only thought is i have a boost leak somewhere, im going to go look at lunch to see if i can find something obvious. no codes, or other indications of something wrong. 05 LGT with cobb 3" catted DP and stg 2 cobb OTS, otherwise stock powertrain. any other ideas or common issues?
i only ask here because LGT.com reminds me of CR, and you guys are sooo smart.
was driving to work this morning, and a few miles from work i went to pass someone on the freeway and the car starting missing bad under load. light throttle and low boost it seems to run fine, but as soon as you get on it a little, or anything close to WOT, as soon as it gets on boost it misses and cuts out really bad. my only thought is i have a boost leak somewhere, im going to go look at lunch to see if i can find something obvious. no codes, or other indications of something wrong. 05 LGT with cobb 3" catted DP and stg 2 cobb OTS, otherwise stock powertrain. any other ideas or common issues?
i only ask here because LGT.com reminds me of CR, and you guys are sooo smart.
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
i can watch boost on the AP, but if i remember right the refresh rate isnt stellar and im not sure its fast enough to watch an event happen. ill see what i can see when i get a chance, and ill see if there are any CELs with the AP as the lamp could be bad or disconnected.
could be a leak
could be bad maf
there's a lot of things it could be unfortunately, and I think best things to start with are 1) making a proper log documenting the issue and 2) doing a proper boost leak test
ap wont log open loop afr's cause you don't have a wideband
could be bad maf
there's a lot of things it could be unfortunately, and I think best things to start with are 1) making a proper log documenting the issue and 2) doing a proper boost leak test
ap wont log open loop afr's cause you don't have a wideband
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
MAF hasnt been touched since ive owned it. i got it at 48k, now at 97k. should i take it out and clean it regardless?
thanks vlad and others
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
i do, version 1 if that makes a difference. can i log with AP? im looking at the manual now, it doesnt mention any logging capabilities....? ive never really messed with it, the car came with it, and ive only plugged it in once to see what it did and what map was installed, so please excuse my ignorance. spoon feed me guys!
Yeah, even though its an ancient bugger it should still be able to log, however terribly.
You want to see what's actually happening when the symptom appears, cause otherwise you could be on a wild goose chase for a very very long time.
Or you could order the tactrix cable and have modern logging capabilities with a laptop because an AP1 is so old they used to log dinosaurs with it.
As for boost leak test, I think there's a solid writeup if you google it. google "wrx boost leak test " or "subaru boost leak test" or something.
you cap off the ports on the inlet and pressurize everything from intake to the engine.
You want to see what's actually happening when the symptom appears, cause otherwise you could be on a wild goose chase for a very very long time.
Or you could order the tactrix cable and have modern logging capabilities with a laptop because an AP1 is so old they used to log dinosaurs with it.
As for boost leak test, I think there's a solid writeup if you google it. google "wrx boost leak test " or "subaru boost leak test" or something.
you cap off the ports on the inlet and pressurize everything from intake to the engine.








