didn't those v8s make a whooping 220hp?

 

"Apples are better than Oranges, and here is a picture of a to prove it"
-Leafy


...and actually my corvette's both got 16-18 city

 

I has a sad. The Twins have absolutely plummeted in value. It's shocking. I've traded around lots of new/newer cars and never seen one fall on it's face so hard. Since mine is a Limited with a few extra options it was nearly $29k new.

Found a dealer not to far away that has a SUPER clean, 36k mile, 2005 Mazdaspeed Miata. They wanted to offer $19k in trade. Ouch.

For reference, when I special ordered my new Mustang GT. I drove it for 7 months and traded it in for $500 less than what I paid for it.

 

But why would you want a NB Miata over a brz?

Seems like a step back if you ask me. If anything I'd be eyeing ND's

A stock MSM is terrible. It needs bolt ons, wheels, and ecu to be enjoyable.

 

As stupid as it seems, I've always wanted one. I know stock they are terrible (I drove one years ago), but I wouldn't leave it stock.

I like the ND because convertible. If I could get the LSD on the base model I'd probably go that way.

EDIT: Looks like Emilio sells the stock LSD for $650ish, wonder what it would cost to have it installed.

 

$19k isn't a bad trade offer for a BRZ. They're the kind of car we refer to as customer repellent.

 

It may be, but I'm not willing to take that kind of bath on it. I can easily afford it, but wanted to continue with the cost cutting lifestyle I've been doing the last few months. I've already cut $400+ /month in spending this year, and that doesn't even include me going out to eating/drinking a lot less.

Since I'm stuck with it, I'll just go ahead and do the other stuff to it I've been wanting to do.

 

honestly, I think a burzz is a cool little car. I'd want one with boost tho. can't handle the torque absence

you'd have lost money trading it in either way. may as well use that money for boost

 

LISTEN TO HIM

At this point IMO, having a NB would be only good as a 2nd car/project car that you intend to dump money into, rebuild etc...

I have an itch for a vvt rotrex daily driver build, but..

This plan is waay more logical, because ND Plus, you get to take advantage of all the future goodies coming out for it

Bewst the burrz, or get your miata fix with the ND...

I'd go ND and take the trade in value, since you'll be losing out on it like mentioned.

Get it professionally detailed before hand though or do it on your own. I worked as a porter for New/Used car sales for a pontiac/gmc dealer in 08'. The used car guys would gobble it up if a vehicle came in that looked "well maintained". Basically itching to put it out front and resell it. But Ed may know more than me

If I were in your shoes, I'd still get a ND club.... Stock suspension on that package seems actually decent. And mazda connect features

 

boost the burrrz, don't flush money down the toilet trading it in

I see a clean white one every now and then and can't help but want it for DD duty







I'd probably throw an AVO kit on it, or even a JR brotrex since the burrz doesn't really make lowend torque anyway

 

It is a cool little car. It get looks and thumbs up everywhere, no one seems to know what it is other than this cool looking little car slammed on RPF1s. That top white on looks good, I love those wheels. I may step back down to 17s just for ride quality since our roads are so terrible.

I'm about to order a JDL UEL header that + E85 is about 20-25whp over stock exhaust with 91 tune and eliminates the tq dip. So that should be good.

I want to boost it........I'm just nervous about doing that on my only car/DD. If I did it would be JRSC or Edelbrock. The SBD kit is CHEAP and seems to be having good reviews and the guys are just 90 miles down the turnpike. But I don't like the idea of supporting a company that ripped off Greddy's design.

 

Don't get me wrong, they're nice to drive. The ex drove a 2015 Furrz... I wasn't nice to it

Would you want to supa charge or baller EFR kit?

IMO, For DD reliability and simplicity... I'd go supa charge and call it a day Get to use your new UEL and get a boosted E85 tune. Down time would be minimal.

 

*IF* I decide to boost it, it would JRSC all day. No E85.

Even on crap 91 California gas (not sure OK 91 is any better) the kit still does like 280whp. And stock these are like 160whp, so that would be a huge jump.

Gets it to the 10:1 weight:hp ratio.

 

I've driven BRZ with spendy header + tune (no E85 though) and it still felt slow compared to my AP2 (drove back to back).

JR supercharger... The new one with the big compressor!

 

So a rotrex setup vs supercharge eaton rotors? Discuss...

Power delivery comes to mind... That low end tq

JR shows the same dyno plot for both C30 & C38 setups

Edlebrock's SC (just an example, not recommended unless they have a higher output SC out there non rotrex flavor)



JRSC

 

That's Edelbrocks info vs stock. I think CSG or Delicious tuning has dyno plots showing the Edelbrock vs JRSC and there isn't nearly the difference you'd think at the low end.

Ahh yes, the C38 instead of the C30. Don't really see the point since I don't need the extra headroom.

Even the C30 on the high boost pulley and E85 will do nearly 400whp. Which requires clutch, fuel system, etc..........and the hope that the block will live.

It seems about 280whp or so, is about the limit for reliable, well tuned FI power on these engines.

 

yeah we already discussed this - I don't really see any benefit to the roots setups at all on that car. its like 10-15tq more at the most, which is still pathetic. may as well run the centri and get better ait's and more reliable/consistent setup

the little FA just doesn't want to make torque

 

California (and az/nm I think) 91 is worse than everywhere else. Some tuning companies have specific tunes for those states.

 

It is damn tempting. Would give it the power ratio of a new Coyote Mustang, although just a screamer, no tq.

You'd think other manufacturers would be poaching Honda engine talent at this point.

Honda designed the F20C in the last 90s and it made 20% more power than an engine designed over a decade later. I realize the flat four has more inherent rotational friction (4 cams instead of 2 for instance)...but it seems as though they could have gotten more out of it with it being DI and 12.5:1 comp.

 

I think it comes down to cost - the s2k MSRP was 32,800 for a lot "less car"
Also they have a pretty solid history of making well breathing screamers.

Subaru and Toyota are selling more car for less money, so costs were severely cut in various places. also things like DI+PI cost a LOT of money which also eats away at available funds for other things. I'm pretty sure DI was a first for Subaru with the burzz

I dunno. just a guess