forced induction is old news.
http://y8spec.com/humor/forced_exduction.jpg
also known as "how to get fresh air into your exhaust to calibrate the wideband" |
Doesn't not removing it screw up your heater calibration though?
Maybe I'm an airhead, but everytime I left it in, even if AFR cal seemed right, I'd get extraordinarily long warm up times. |
Ah, dude, you are the vac-master!
IIRC, it was you that posted the vac oil pump priming trick, right? That shit saved my life a couple months ago (at least temporarily)! |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 583180)
Maybe I'm an airhead, but everytime I left it in, even if AFR cal seemed right, I'd get extraordinarily long warm up times.
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webby: no, that wasn't me.
shouldn't the heater calibration be based on being "on the car"? it probably doesn't matter much. I dont think the manual says to remove the sensor and cooling fins prior to calibration does it? |
it does actually.
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Remove or dont run the engine for 6 days. It's something like that...
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it still says the sensor should be out of the pipe during heater calibration
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nuh uh
Originally Posted by lc1manual
3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet. 2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds. 3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds. 4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air for the first time calibration. -8- 5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes. If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats, you have an error code. See Appendix for details. Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on the sensor type used. After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration the optional LED will blink fast and steady. After the heater calibration is finished you should perform a free air calibration. The free air calibration is accomplished by either pressing the push-button or connecting the black wire to ground for three seconds and then releasing. During this procedure a connected LED will go off. The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference gas with known oxygen content. After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously, indicating correct operation of the LC-1. 4 Calibration There are two types of calibration for the LC-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration. Sensor heater calibration and first free air calibration is automatically performed the first time a new sensor is used, while free air calibration should be executed frequently. 4.1 Free air calibration To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently. The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust pipe) for calibration purposes: 1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on. 2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire to ground for three seconds and release. 3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start the car. If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration. 4.2 Sensor heater calibration If you change the sensor – either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the heater circuit of the LC-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 3 'First Time -9- Use'). The heater calibration data in the LC-1 will be reset when the device is operated from 12V without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on. After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor- specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LC-1 may perform multiple calibration passes. This is normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, the LC-1 also will perform a free air calibration. Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free air calibration. 4.3 Calibration Schedule Normally aspirated daily driver: - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich): - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first Race car - Calibrate before first installation of new sensor - Calibrate once per race weekend Dyno use - Calibrate a new sensor - Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 583424)
nuh uh
"To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently. The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust pipe) for calibration purposes" Read it yet? or just the first line? |
Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free air calibration. |
Sooo lazy
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Dude, those pictures are not big enough for me. I just don't get enough resolution at 2448x3264. Please get a better camera, one with at least 15megapixels for posting photos of vaccum cleaners and corrugated hose.
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I still have to calibrate mine, and I remeber reading in the manual that you need to remove the sensor to correctly do so.
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I always have much better luck getting it to calibrate when I remove it from the exhaust.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 583407)
it still says the sensor should be out of the pipe during heater calibration
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 583427)
yuh huh
"To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently. The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust pipe) for calibration purposes" Read it yet? or just the first line?
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski
(Post 583438)
That pretty much sums it up.
HEATER calibration. not free air. |
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 583456)
Dude, those pictures are not big enough for me. I just don't get enough resolution at 2448x3264. Please get a better camera, one with at least 15megapixels for posting photos of vaccum cleaners and corrugated hose.
Are you on cable or dsl or some other archaic copper wire-based internet service? |
Just get a PLX. Don't have to dick with calibration.
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Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 583610)
Just get a PLX. Don't have to dick with calibration.
Quoted for emphasis. |
sweet, free PLX where?!
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