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Old 06-04-2010, 11:44 AM   #1
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Default forced induction is old news.



also known as "how to get fresh air into your exhaust to calibrate the wideband"
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:47 AM   #2
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Doesn't not removing it screw up your heater calibration though?

Maybe I'm an airhead, but everytime I left it in, even if AFR cal seemed right, I'd get extraordinarily long warm up times.
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:52 AM   #3
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Ah, dude, you are the vac-master!

IIRC, it was you that posted the vac oil pump priming trick, right? That **** saved my life a couple months ago (at least temporarily)!
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
Maybe I'm an airhead, but everytime I left it in, even if AFR cal seemed right, I'd get extraordinarily long warm up times.
might be something to this.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:10 PM   #5
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webby: no, that wasn't me.

shouldn't the heater calibration be based on being "on the car"? it probably doesn't matter much. I dont think the manual says to remove the sensor and cooling fins prior to calibration does it?
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:28 PM   #6
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it does actually.
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:32 PM   #7
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Remove or dont run the engine for 6 days. It's something like that...
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:36 PM   #8
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it still says the sensor should be out of the pipe during heater calibration
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:14 PM   #9
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nuh uh

Quote:
Originally Posted by lc1manual
3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air
for the first time calibration.
-8-
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See Appendix for details.
Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After the heater calibration is finished you should perform a free air calibration. The free air
calibration is accomplished by either pressing the push-button or connecting the black wire to
ground for three seconds and then releasing. During this procedure a connected LED will go off.
The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1.
4 Calibration
There are two types of calibration for the LC-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration.
Sensor heater calibration and first free air calibration is automatically performed the first time a
new sensor is used, while free air calibration should be executed frequently.
4.1 Free air calibration
To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust
pipe) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for three seconds and release.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.
4.2 Sensor heater calibration
If you change the sensor either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the
heater circuit of the LC-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 3 'First Time
-9-
Use'). The heater calibration data in the LC-1 will be reset when the device is operated from 12V
without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then
recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor-
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future.
Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LC-1 may perform multiple calibration passes.
This is normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, the LC-1 also will perform
a free air calibration. Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free
air calibration.
4.3 Calibration Schedule
Normally aspirated daily driver:
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first
Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich):
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first
Race car
- Calibrate before first installation of new sensor
- Calibrate once per race weekend
Dyno use
- Calibrate a new sensor
- Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
nuh uh
yuh huh

"To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust
pipe) for calibration purposes"

Read it yet? or just the first line?
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free
air calibration.
That pretty much sums it up.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:45 PM   #12
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Sooo lazy
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:30 PM   #13
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Dude, those pictures are not big enough for me. I just don't get enough resolution at 2448x3264. Please get a better camera, one with at least 15megapixels for posting photos of vaccum cleaners and corrugated hose.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:22 PM   #14
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I still have to calibrate mine, and I remeber reading in the manual that you need to remove the sensor to correctly do so.
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:47 PM   #15
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I always have much better luck getting it to calibrate when I remove it from the exhaust.
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Old 06-05-2010, 11:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
it still says the sensor should be out of the pipe during heater calibration
Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
yuh huh

"To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust
pipe) for calibration purposes"

Read it yet? or just the first line?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
That pretty much sums it up.
Did you read braineack's whole sentence or just the first 12 words?

HEATER calibration. not free air.
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Old 06-05-2010, 11:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Dude, those pictures are not big enough for me. I just don't get enough resolution at 2448x3264. Please get a better camera, one with at least 15megapixels for posting photos of vaccum cleaners and corrugated hose.
Sorry Sam, limited by my phone's puny 8 mp camera.

Are you on cable or dsl or some other archaic copper wire-based internet service?
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Old 06-05-2010, 11:39 AM   #18
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Just get a PLX. Don't have to dick with calibration.
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Old 06-06-2010, 06:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
Just get a PLX. Don't have to dick with calibration.

Quoted for emphasis.
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Old 06-06-2010, 06:43 PM   #20
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sweet, free PLX where?!
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