Give me one good reason to not switch-back to NA on my track car. - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-27-2012, 03:40 AM   #61
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We have 93 almost every where. Trey get it up and running but as suggested many times above your going to need that VVT head to fatten up ther area under the curve. So don't freak out but keep your eye out for a deal on one.

Good choice, this will put you in a good class with NASA after a dyno reclass. Your going to have some good fun.
I went ahead and put on the 12-1 crank gear for the meantime. I have to pay John back for the engine, then I'll get the head and MS3 going and this car will make more impressive numbers...or maybe I'll be happy where it is.

I'm not worried about fuel economy so I can add a ton of fuel and add some spark and see what happens.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:32 AM   #62
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On the dyno I'm going to tune it like I do all cars, add fuel until it stops making torque, then add spark.
Then pull fuel till it stops increasing in power and/or dets?
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:17 PM   #63
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Then pull fuel till it stops increasing in power and/or dets?
I'll go both ways since I have no experience with this type of engine.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:51 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I went ahead and put on the 12-1 crank gear for the meantime. I have to pay John back for the engine, then I'll get the head and MS3 going and this car will make more impressive numbers...or maybe I'll be happy where it is.

I'm not worried about fuel economy so I can add a ton of fuel and add some spark and see what happens.
Adding fuel is a luxury we don't get on the enduro cars. We run north of 13.0:1 in some areas above 90kpa. Thus the occasional knife edge of det. The 95R is closer to 12.6:1 since, like yours, it doesn't matter what kind of economy it gets. Much easier to tune. Stock BP4W and BP6D heads with stock to mild cams usually want 30-32 on top. When they start flowing better or you add more cam, that will fall back to 26-29 for MBT. 95R now has bowl blend, deshroud and only about 10.5:1. It gets to MBT at around 28. It wants another 2 past 6000 but won't make it there on our CA91 in the summer. Our CA91 < your 91. When we get to Hallett, we'll put some race gas and another 3 in the 95R and see how much we can beat the Spec record by with a passenger on RS3's.

The BP6D head isn't the end all, be all for an N/A engine. You can still make excellent power and torque with a BP4W head. Bonus points if you put a BP5A cam in it.

Because of your relatively high compression and potential use of 91, I'd take whatever affordable steps you can take to control det. You'll get good power even if you don't reach MBT but may end up leaving 10whp on the table past 6000. Adjustable cam gears are not a bad idea.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:17 PM   #65
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Adding fuel is a luxury we don't get on the enduro cars. We run north of 13.0:1 in some areas above 90kpa. Thus the occasional knife edge of det. The 95R is closer to 12.6:1 since, like yours, it doesn't matter what kind of economy it gets. Much easier to tune. Stock BP4W and BP6D heads with stock to mild cams usually want 30-32 on top. When they start flowing better or you add more cam, that will fall back to 26-29 for MBT. 95R now has bowl blend, deshroud and only about 10.5:1. It gets to MBT at around 28. It wants another 2 past 6000 but won't make it there on our CA91 in the summer. Our CA91 < your 91. When we get to Hallett, we'll put some race gas and another 3 in the 95R and see how much we can beat the Spec record by with a passenger on RS3's.

The BP6D head isn't the end all, be all for an N/A engine. You can still make excellent power and torque with a BP4W head. Bonus points if you put a BP5A cam in it.

Because of your relatively high compression and potential use of 91, I'd take whatever affordable steps you can take to control det. You'll get good power even if you don't reach MBT but may end up leaving 10whp on the table past 6000. Adjustable cam gears are not a bad idea.
I like this post....so much

Making me want to keep my NB1/2 engine.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:10 AM   #66
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first of all wipe the sand out of your vagina and get the manafold fixed so you can get back on the the track. then learn how to use the whole track and not apex with enough room for another car to pass. you gotta drive an NA miata right to which it does not seem like your were doing after watching about 10 seconds of the vid. 4 years out of a custom manifold does not seem bad on the track. so fix it or dont fix it, obviously stuff is going to brake all the time on a built turbo setup. if you grow tired of dealing with it then get rid of it. it will never be a drive and park car, it will always need work. you gotta have an idea of what it costs to track this car so either stop or pay up. just sayin. to run NA is fun if you have a good car and people to run with, club, spec whatever but it is very different and it totally cost money to stay up front if you are great driver.

quick story, I had a friend ( semi pro i guess) sell his sick E46 race car to do miata for financial reasons and he said it ends up not any cheaper if you want a front running car and he seemed kinda bummed out by the whole thing.

so recognize it is going to cost lots of money or do something else, de-tune the car car whatever. I'm tuned to 190 wheel and it seems reliable and once I put suspention on the car I think, hope it will be pretty quick. not that slow as it stands but not fast either and right or wrong I'm a ok decent driver.

not trying to be negative but you have a passion for the car, driving, don't let a little crack be a issue.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:16 AM   #67
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Hey, Hustler, got any updates? I fell out of the loop due to lololRLheadaches.

P.S. Psy, you are kind of acting like a dick there.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:01 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by psreynol View Post
first of all wipe the sand out of your vagina and get the manafold fixed so you can get back on the the track. then learn how to use the whole track and not apex with enough room for another car to pass. you gotta drive an NA miata right to which it does not seem like your were doing after watching about 10 seconds of the vid. 4 years out of a custom manifold does not seem bad on the track. so fix it or dont fix it, obviously stuff is going to brake all the time on a built turbo setup. if you grow tired of dealing with it then get rid of it. it will never be a drive and park car, it will always need work. you gotta have an idea of what it costs to track this car so either stop or pay up. just sayin. to run NA is fun if you have a good car and people to run with, club, spec whatever but it is very different and it totally cost money to stay up front if you are great driver.

quick story, I had a friend ( semi pro i guess) sell his sick E46 race car to do miata for financial reasons and he said it ends up not any cheaper if you want a front running car and he seemed kinda bummed out by the whole thing.

so recognize it is going to cost lots of money or do something else, de-tune the car car whatever. I'm tuned to 190 wheel and it seems reliable and once I put suspention on the car I think, hope it will be pretty quick. not that slow as it stands but not fast either and right or wrong I'm a ok decent driver.

not trying to be negative but you have a passion for the car, driving, don't let a little crack be a issue.
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