Where do you buy them?

 

I used to go apesh* with stupid gloves tearing every 2 seconds. Then got some thick ones similar to those and now my life is so much easier

They have similar ones at HF, that's where I get mine.

 

black oxide for color and oil to prevent rust. they don't plate them in chrome because it chips off during impacts.

 

advance auto parts carries them; that's where I always buy them.

Buy SAS Survival Air Systems Thickster Latex Exam Grade Glove - Medium SAS6602 at Advance Auto Parts



do NOT buy the black Raven gloves they carry, probably the worse gloves I've ever used.

 

How'd you break them? I've pulled of axle nuts, steering assemblies, all sorts of bullshit, and they're fine after a year+ of daily use.

 

I agree that they are still a good deal. I think you might be able to get 3 deep impacts from sears for what it would cost for them all from HF. Just know that long term cracking may happen, and probably right when you need it.

I think I broke my 17mm doing lugnuts or something. It was on my HF electric impact wrench. It was 3+ years of use though before I broke it. I think I also might have broke a 21mm loosening or tightening my crank bolt with engine out of the car.

 

I've been using these nitrile dipped cloth gloves with success. I managed to get two 10 packs at tHD one day on an end cap for $10- half off. They're tough, thin, tight fitting and get some air to your hands, but not safe for dipping into bodily fluids like the thicksters.

Firm Grip Nitrile Coated Gloves (10-Pack)-5510-16 at The Home Depot

 

U buy this **** from ace hardware and the gardening section of target/kmart for like 3 bucks.

 

Well I have not posted to my own thread for awhile so here is some more. First, some comments on recent posts:
- I agree, i am really tired of using those pansy nitrile gloves. They are good for very light work like painting but otherwise forget it. They tear too easily. The ones we have at work (Science/Engineering R&D lab where they HAVE to be tough or very expensive stuff gets damaged) are much tougher. Thanks for the link to the Advance Auto ones.
- I split open two HF impact sockets I was using for lug nuts. They had seen a lot of use since I had been using them at the track (with a cordless impact) to swap tire sets. No big deal, i tossed them and bought new ones. The set I just bought is the large set of deep-well ones posted above that goes up to 34mm or whatever it is. I wish it came with a storage box but otherwise they are working fine so far.

OK time for the new addition to the garage, which is a WIN
HF Media Blast Cabinet, Central Pneumatic - Item#42202
Abrasive Blast Cabinet


I bought this to blast (with aluminum oxide) a set of Sanderson LS1 headers in preparation for ceramic coating. It works well. I used the smallest diameter tip and the feed rate was good enough to get the job done. It does not come with a light, or an air hose, so get each of those. I bought a LED light that I glued to the inside top wall and that works well enough. Your regular shop hose can be run into the enclosure, but it is a lot more convenient to get a short section of air hose, say 5-10 feet, so you can leave it with the cabinet. Keep in mind these use a LOT of compressed air so if you have a small compressor you will spend some time waiting for it to recharge.

I connected my shop vac to the cabinet (see the instructions) to keep the media from making a mess outside of the cabinet and that works.

And, for those who do not know, using regular silica sand, like sand box sand, is a really bad idea from what I have read. If you breathe in the fine particles you will die a slow, horrible death, and give cancer to puppies and kittens. Using aluminum oxide, soda, or walnut shells (depending on what you are blasting) is a better idea. I used this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/2-lbs-2...ive-66846.html when I was blasting the headers.

 

FAIL IMO and by IMO I mean it dropped a dodge d250 transmission on me last night, it did not slip off... trans jack broke and collapsed the strap is nice but the manual mechanism sucks donkey d then I borrowed the bigger hydraulic hf one and that did the trick no prob shell out the extra cash for the bigger one unless you are just doing a very small trans

 

definitely full of win I want to add something to that, it may not be harbor freight but northern tools has a sand called black diamond that is cheap and great for heavy rust, paint, and grime removal I think it's around 10 bucks per 50lb bag might be a 20lb haven't bought it in a while

 

Black Diamond is a good, but very abrasive media. It's nothing but coal slag, and has very sharp edges. It will tear through rust and paint, but it will also tear into aluminum so be careful what parts you use it on.

I have the same blast cabinet for smaller jobs, and it works well (it's really just a box with holes cut in it) but I would highly recommend using a silicone caulking on EVERY seam and edge to prevent dust from escaping and coating your garage/car/cat.

If you shop around here Sandblast Cabinet Parts & Supplies - TP Tools & Equipment

you can upgrade your cabinet parts for a fraction of what a full assembled cabinet would cost. The gun they have is about 100 times better than the harbor freight one.

 

pics or it didnt happen.

 

$3 for a ten pack? Standard tHD price breaks out to $1/pair.

 

Hh nvm didnt know u were saying for a 10 pack, got confused with the "each" listed on the add.

 

Awesome ceramic kitchen knives.



3 different sizes. Here's the medium sized one:

5" Ceramic Utility Knife

 

^^^ Do those hold up after a while? Have been tempted on more than one occasion, they go on sale constantly.

 

Do they trigger metal detectors?

 

They will hold an edge a little longer than steel, but the problem is once the ceramic gets dull you will need access to diamond sharpening equipment and even then it's very very difficult. Also extremely brittle, don't drop'em. Think of kitchen knives as a tool you use almost every day. You want Snap-on quality so to speak. Stick with a high quality name brand forged steel. Learn how to put an edge on it yourself. (like 15-20*) Choose a diamond steel instead of a butcher's steel to keep the edge up. Just my .02
Cheers,
-JB

 

I've got a few Henkel knives that I use/sharpen regularly myself, but am always on the lookout for some beater knives to use in the kitchen.