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I know the 1 ton crane works for getting the engine out, but you need to remove the bumper etc. Is this something that one doesn't have to worry about with the 2 ton crane?
I got all excited at the price when I saw that there was a 25% off coupon...only to realize that the price was post coupon. Dicks.
I know the 1 ton crane works for getting the engine out, but you need to remove the bumper etc. Is this something that one doesn't have to worry about with the 2 ton crane?
I got all excited at the price when I saw that there was a 25% off coupon...only to realize that the price was post coupon. Dicks.
I just drilled an extra "250 lb" hole in mine . I've pulled half a dozen miata motor/transmissions with it, and didn't need to remove the bumper. I guess it depends on the appetite for sketchiness...
I just drilled an extra "250 lb" hole in mine . I've pulled half a dozen miata motor/transmissions with it, and didn't need to remove the bumper. I guess it depends on the appetite for sketchiness...
I have owned the 1ton for about 6 or 7 years now. I did several NA motor swaps without removing the bumper, the hoist was always right up against the bumper to make it work. I have added an extra hole to mine for a bit more length, and started removing bumpers and it definitely is a bit easier that way.
Big time win.
I've used this thing dozens of times in the last few months, and it's really great.
It has one weird quirk though.
Sometimes it will have an error if you press the jump-start button when the cables are already attached.
It started doing this after quite a few uses.
If you press it and then plug in the cables, it works fine.
It gives several jumps per charge, and holds charge for at least a month at a time (I haven't gone longer than that between uses).
Is it as quiet as a honda? Thats why Hondas are worth every penny, they're silent compared to every other brand.
They claim 57db. I just got the email and it seems it was introduced about a week ago. Reviewers claim to able to talk normally while standing by them running. That would equal my experience with a champion 2000w with similar noise levels.
An 80 gallon tank and a Champion R15 commercial pump. I do have ~15ft of half inch Rapidaire line and a 60ft 3/8 lead hose in the system, but there's enough air flow to run an impact just fine, so I'm sure there's enough flow to run an air hammer. This thing is nearly useless. I think the regulator was DOA. I bought a second air hammer to do the diff mounts in my dad's '02 Miata today. I'll report back on whether it works better.
Got my block back from the machine shop and just used this to pull my oil galley plugs and worked like a charm. Well worth $20 with the coupon. Drilled a hole and used a M8 x 1.5 tap and the shaft for the puller threaded right into the brass. That pile of crap isn't brass. I pulled all that out of the galley with that little extendable magnet in the picture. Come to think of it the tap and magnet probably came from HF too.
Great for infeed and outfeed support for sticks of steel. I got mine for $14 open box but even at the normal price it is about what I pay per lb for steel from my supplier.
I tried to buy one of these locally but there was about 50 thou runout on the disc at the one in the box at the store. Also the miter gauge/track fit had enough slop in it to throw off miters by at least a degree. I ended up spending an extra $70 to get the 12" rikon sander. Cast iron instead of aluminum disc, better QC, flatter table, a miter gauge that doesn't suck, and rack and pinion angle adjustment on the table.
I have it dialed in to cut very square on both axis . It's a bit fiddly to set up but it makes nice cuts. The stand it comes with is **** and the saw can easily hop into its back if you aren't careful when lifting the cutting arm. I haven't used it in vertical but it would appear the blade is not perpendicular to the cutting surface so that is going to be a problem for thick materials.
I have it dialed in to cut very square on both axis . It's a bit fiddly to set up but it makes nice cuts. The stand it comes with is **** and the saw can easily hop into its back if you aren't careful when lifting the cutting arm. I haven't used it in vertical but it would appear the blade is not perpendicular to the cutting surface so that is going to be a problem for thick materials.
I am on my second one of those over the past 3.5 years. It is a very love hate relationship between me and it. I can't for the life of me get it adjusted to cut amazingly. I swear every time I start adjusting to make it better I end up with it worse. Due to this I think I go through saw blades much faster then I should. So I might force you to come down to Charleston to take a vacation, and come teach me how to adjust it.
I have a step by step guide to adjusting those monstrosities. I'll dig it up and post it when I get home. I used to buy multiple returns on a skid, and then rebuild them for sale. Turns out I was spending more time working on them than making money selling them was worth.
When they're working right and have a good blade, they are great machines. Getting them there is sometimes quite a battle.
I have a step by step guide to adjusting those monstrosities. I'll dig it up and post it when I get home. I used to buy multiple returns on a skid, and then rebuild them for sale. Turns out I was spending more time working on them than making money selling them was worth.
When they're working right and have a good blade, they are great machines. Getting them there is sometimes quite a battle.
Please shoot me a pm when you find it. If it is the 4x6 guide I think I found it years ago when I got my first saw. I have also watched a ton of videos about them and adjusting. Every time I try, I swaer I make it worse. After your surgery you and the wife need to take a nice vacation down to Charleston. I will throw in a 93LE for you to drive around while you are down if you can make my saw great again.
04-13-2017, 12:04 PM
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